What Do You Need To Start Olympic Archery?
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What Do You Need To Start Olympic Archery?

August 9, 2019


One of the questions that I frequently get
asked is What do I need to buy in order to do archery? Normally for people who want to get into archery I recommend trying it first at an archery
range or a club but let’s stay you’re at the stage where you’re
buying your first bow. You’re probably looking for a checklist of
the things you need to get. The item that is going to suck up the most
time and money is the bow. If you’re buying a beginner bow or a hunting
bow such as the Samick Sage or Martin Jaguar the bow typically comes with all the bits
needed to shoot including the riser, limbs and bowstring. If you’re buying an Olympic style target bow,
these components are all sold separately. For convenience, you may want to buy a pre-selected
bow package or ask the shop to put one together for you
with your bow purchase. Most stores have some kind of beginner package
that includes riser, limbs and accessory kit. The essential accessories are a finger tab
or glove and an arm guard. A bowstringer is recommended and a quiver
is nice to have but not vital. Of course, you need arrows. Arrows aren’t made equal. Depending on your
draw weight, you will need to match the spine of the arrow with your bow. You can either look up arrow spine charts
or contact the archery store and ask. Well let’s say you’ve gotten all of that and
you’re holding your bow right now. You’re ready to shoot, right? Hold on. Not quite. There are a couple of things you need to have
on your bow before you’re good to go. The first is to make sure your bow has an
arrow rest. If you’re shooting traditional style, you
can get a shelf rug. But your arrows need to have feathers and
not plastic vanes. More commonly, a stick-on arrow rest is used. Some bows already come with rests, but make
sure you’ve got one. Second, you need to put a nocking point on
your string. Without it, the arrow will slide up and down.
You can ask the shop to do it for you, or you can get your own brass nock sets, or use
serving thread or even dental floss. You’ll want the arrow to be roughly square
with the string or slightly angled down. Now you’re ready to shoot safely. To go over again, these are the things you
need to get for a basic recurve bow. First you need the bow. The bow should have
a riser limbs, a rest, a bowstring with nocking points Arrows, a finger tab or a glove, and an arm
guard. That’s actually all you need. Again, there are extras that you generally
should get like a bowstringer and other accessories like
a bow case or a quiver. If you’re going for a full Olympic-style setup
you will need to get things like a plunger button and stabilisers and sights. But for the sake of those who are just starting
out and just want a bow, this is all you need. I should point out that you probably want
something to shoot at. That’s not a problem if you’re going to a
range to shoot. But if you’re shooting at home, you will probably
either have to buy a target or make one yourself. Anyway, this is NUSensei. Hope this was helpful.Thanks for watching,
and I’ll see you next time.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Very informative. I enjoy your casual presentation style.
    Can you PLEASE expand on the aspects of Targets? Perhaps a need II: The Sequel…

  2. I'm curious if it matters if the floss is waxed or not. (?) I use the same container of dental floss to make nocking points as I use for my teeth. Floss "tape" was suggested to me, but I haven't tried it.

  3. I just bought a "Block Classic" target. Twenty inch/50cm square. Love it. I just need to come up with a better backing behind it than a piece of plywood. Even my aluminium arrows won't like slamming into plywood at close range. (I'm thinking of using a loosely hung rug instead.)

  4. About the arrow rest, is it normal that it gets used up after a number of shots? I mean it gets all used up, it looses its hook i guess, is that normal? 

  5. What is the best practice, to unstring the bow after each use, or to leave it strung?  I've been unstringing my bow when I'm not using it, but if it doesn't make that much difference, I will leave it strung most of the time.  Thanks.

  6. One problem I have, and I'm sure many others, some areas just don't have a local club/range that's within a reasonable distance (and I'm even considering up to an hour drive "reasonable").

  7. Hey, Sensei-San…

    I've owned two bows but never been serious about archery.  Now, I'm now getting the equipment together to begin target shooting.

    I just purchased an OMP adventure bow (68"@34lbs) and a stabilizer system (entry level).  I've got the sight from my last bow (seems solid enough with good adjustments).

    Now, I just need an arrow rest and punger.

    I'm seeing flipper rest/punger combinations on ebay for about 40$.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Archery-Magnetic-Arrow-Rest-Recurve-Bow-Longbow-Takedown-Bow-Cushion-Plunger-/141507133011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f27b7e53#ht_2046wt_1385

    Anything you'd recommend, or recommend I stay away from? 

    Seek your wisdom, I do…

  8. So Sensei, if I prefer to use a more traditional bow with no arrow rest, do I NEED feathered arrows instead of plastic vanes? or is feathering simply required for the traditional sport? if they are necessary, how come? 

  9. @NU Sensei I'm thinking  of getting a SF Forged riser, or Hoyt Formula Excel 25" with SF Premium limbs… I need a 68" bow. SO which one of those risers would you recommend more?
     It's my first bow I'm getting.

  10. I think its better to skip the samick sage (beginer bow) part and just keep renting a bow from the club until few months, from there u can decide if you want to get serious or not, then you can get entry level olympic recurve set (samick avante looks promising)
    Because they offer more adjustability and it looks better than samick sage

  11. Suggestions for draw weight for a beginner? I'm looking at a hickory flatbow with DWs starting at 25-30, 30-35, etc. I'm thinking 25-30. I'm buying on-line. I have no local store to give me an idea since they don't sale "primitive" bows. Other personal data: plan to do recreational shooting; I'm 6'3"; have a 77" draw length according to a Cab** sales person. I respect and appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks.

  12. I really love these comment sections. The content creator consistently replies with good advice, and everybody is being kind and helpful to one another. Is this still Youtube?

  13. I was wondering why is the glove or finger protection necessary?

    Wont the fingers get stronger and get used to it if you do it naturally?

  14. Could you help me with my problem? I just had my first archery lesson yesterday, and the front of the arrow kept falling to the left and off of the bow. So I had to keep moving the arrow up again in order to draw back. How do I prevent this from happening?

  15. hi I'm new at archery i tried it out already and now looking to buy my first bow. i want to play bare bow. thinking about buy the hoyt horizon and some cheap beginning limbs but i was told that these days hoyt horizon might not accommodate any other limbs but its own brand. I'm on a budget but i am willing to spend on a good riser in about 300-400 dollar range what should i buy? thx

  16. Hi, I would like to get myself a bow some time soon. What are some paraeters to look at when choosing certain parts. e.g. How can I tell which one of the two risers is better. How to compare them? Same with limbs.

  17. hey nusensei. you mentioned that one needs a shoulder guard. I've been shooting for a few months now and not once have I hit myself. I'm going to buy a bow set for myself. should I still buy a shoulder guard?

  18. Don't mind me, I am only commenting because I'd like to be shooting.

    To me, a stringer is the more essential purchase.
    Armguard is important but you can very simply improvise one.

  19. how important is it to match spine of arrow to spine charts? From the research I've done they differ between manufacturers and say are only used for reference. From what I gather, the spine charts are for determining stiffness of arrow which affects accuracy. Most of the charts I find begin at 35lbs of draw weight, my bow is only 26lbs. And from my measurement my draw length is 30in. (29+1in for safety) havent shot yet, because I'm trying to research it as much as possible, can I experiment with it? to see which works best for me? Changing spines, but not weight of arrows?

  20. the string keeps slapping my upper arm/ elbow is it because i have improper form to big of a bow or to small of a bow? i also get the fleshy part inbetween my thumb and pointer finger cut open every time i shoot……. help me it hurts

  21. Yet another great video for us beginners. Very informative as I'm currently sat trying to purchase my first bow and missed half the things off your list.

  22. Like your vids very much, they helped me and still help me to get better. I recommendet your channel to other people who are interested in archery, and I found out what the problem of your channel is. Archery is what you do, but archery is not only what you do. In europe the trad. archery with barebows is a fast growing part of archery, and whily watching your vids a "noop" don't know the difference. I have no problem and know that you are a olimpic archer – but you should tell this every time at the beginning. Please don't sell olimpic archery as the most popular archery. It's not, but it's the only on TV.. Go on Sensei, and go shooting a "real" bow. In the forest, against 3D targets. No sigths, no rests, just bow and arrow😉

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