THE SIMS – Stained Glass Plumbob
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THE SIMS – Stained Glass Plumbob

August 28, 2019


Hello and welcome to Stained Glass
Gaming, where I turn video games into glass. Today I am making the Plumbob
from The Sims series. I found an image online and scaled it to the size I
wanted and made three copies. One copy is used to cut the glass,
the second is used to check the fit and the third is to solder on. I use three
bladed scissors to cut the paper the slit takes into account the width of the
foil that is used to stick the pieces together. For anything I make I always
number the pieces to make sure I don’t confuse which piece goes where. When I
make things using images from the internet I try and stay as true to them
as possible but sometimes I have to alter the image. For this project I am
using green patterned glass the darker side will be the front and the lighter
side will be the back. Once the paper pieces are cut out the next step is to
glue them to the glass using washable glue. I arrange the pieces using the
least amount of glass. When I use patterned glass I try and incorporate
the pattern into the design. I use a small amount of glue on each paper piece
if it extends beyond the paper the glass cutter will become dull as it runs over
the glue. This is the pencil type glass cutter it has a very small cutting head
and scores the glass as it runs across. Think of a score line as a crack, and
when the glass breaks it breaks along the crack. When I score the glass I
apply a moderate amount of pressure as I move the cutter. I should hear a zipping
sound which lets me know the cutter is scoring the glass. I move the cutter
across the glass only once and this is enough for the glass to break. Here is what
the score line looks like after the glass is scored I use breaker
pliers and line up the score line with the black mark then squeeze the pliers.
Cutting and breaking glass produces small shards that are unpleasant if they
get into your skin, think of it like a glass splinter. To contain the mess I use
a paintbrush and sweep the small shards off to the side each time I break the
glass. And repeat the process until all the pieces are cut out. To break the
smaller pieces I use small pliers where one side is curved and the other is
straight. I score the glass as close to the paper as I can then turn the glass
over and lightly tap it. The tapping helps the crack travel through the glass
making it easier to break. If the glass is too small to hold comfortably with my
fingers I’ll use a paper towel to hold the glass. With the curved side of the
pliers down I squeeze the pliers while pushing down on the glass. Ideally the glass
should break into small chunks but because this glass decide to shatter and
instead of struggling to contain the mess I move on to the grinder. I fill the
grinder about 1/2 to 3/4 full of water the water keeps the grinder head and
motor cool as it operates and reduces the amount of glass dust produced. This
is the holder for the sponge and acts as the dust suppressant, the water soaks
into the sponge and presses against the grinder head. The grinder throws small
particles as it grinds against the glass and so I use a grinder shield to
contain the mess. Grinding is the messiest part of the entire process and
I wear clothes I don’t mind getting covered in glass. I wear a long sleeve
shirt, pants, shoes, a hat or bandanna safety glasses, dust mask or respirator
and a fan. The grinding head rotates counterclockwise moving the glass for
right to left produces deeper cuts while left to right produces shallow cuts there are two ways I grind the glass. Holding the glass with my
fingers and using a grinder cookie. The grinder cookie saves fingers from the
wear and tear when holding the glass. I apply a moderate amount of pressure as I
grind if I use too much pressure the shaft of the grinder will bend over
time. As I grind, the paper becomes wet and because the glue is washable, the
paper may slide off. To keep the paper from sliding I alternate which piece I
grind while I wait for the paper to dry. I use the second paper copy to check the
fit of each piece as I grind, once the pieces are ground and fit nicely together
I remove the paper. Because the paper is wet I can remove it easily, if the paper
was dry I put the pieces into water to soften it. To get the glue and glass
particles off the glass I wash the pieces using hand soap and water then I dry and
numbered them. Once the pieces are dry and numbered, foil is wrapped around the
glass to solder the pieces together. One side is copper and the other comes in
three different colors: copper, black, and silver. Choosing the foil backing is
dependent on the color of the solder, solder is naturally silver that could be
changed to copper or black using chemicals. If the glass is opaque meaning
little to no light passes through I use the copper backed foil. If the glass
is translucent meaning some light passes through or transparent meaning all light
passes through I use the black or silver backed foil. For this project I use the
black backed foil and will change the color of the solder to black. The width
of the solder lines are determined by the width of the foil, this is the
quarter inch width black backed foil the black side is the adhesive and sticks to
the glass. There are several ways to foil using a hand foiling tool, a table foiler
and eyeballing. Since I don’t have a hand toiling tool or a table foiler I’m
going to eyeball it. The adhesive side is covered with paper once I peel the paper
off I line up the width of the glass with the middle of the foil. I use the
third paper copy to check the fit as I go. For each piece I foil on an inside edge that meets another inside edge. This provides a better fit
when all the pieces are soldered. I start foiling on the top inside edge
of piece number five, I want the width of the glass to be in the middle of the
foil as much as possible as I wrap the entire piece pressing the foil onto the
glass as I go. The sides of the foil will be pressed down later when I get to
where I started foiling I overlap the foil and cut it using regular scissors.
Before I press the edges of the foil onto the glass I take an exacto knife
and cut the corners. To press the foil onto the glass I use a burnishing tool
but a popsicle stick would work just as well. I use my fingernail and push the
foil over the edges of the glass then use the burnishing tool to flatten the
edges and go over the entire piece again to ensure a snug fit. I noticed I was not lined up fully and have an overlap on one side. I use the exacto
knife to cut away the overlap. Here is what it looks like once all the pieces
are foiled the next step is soldering. I use thumbtacks to keep the pieces from
moving and to do fine-tuning if needed. To begin soldering I use 60%/40% lead
solder, a small paintbrush, flux, a soldering iron, a soldering iron stand, a
wet sponge, a dust mask or respirator and a fan. I plug the soldering iron
in and wait for it to heat up. While I wait I brush flux onto the foil, flux is
used to stick the solder to the foil without it the solder will bead up and
roll off the foil. To test if the soldering iron is hot enough I touch the
solder to the tip, if the solder melts easily then I begin soldering. The first
thing I do is tack the pieces on the front and then the back always keeping the iron moving and never leaving it in one place. Once
that is done I can remove the thumbtacks and solder the rest of the piece.
I repeat the process of fluxing and soldering but need to be careful not to
heat up the piece too much because it will crack. Smaller pieces heat up faster
than larger ones. When soldering the edges the term is
called tinning and is used to describe the action of putting a thin coat of
solder over something else, which in this case is the foil on the edges. The solder
can be reused if it drips off the piece. As I solder the tip becomes oxidized
and forms a layer of carbon on the surface I rub the iron on a wet sponge
until the oxidation is removed and the tip is shiny. To hang the piece after it
is finished I make a hook using small diameter copper wire, I cut off the
amount I need and use needle nose pliers to bend the wire into a hook. The hook
also needs to be tinned so I apply flux and tin it. The hook is soldered on the
back of the piece and in a seam instead of the edge because the seam provides a
stronger fit. Now that the soldering is finished and the
piece is cooled off I wash the flux, residual solder, and permanent marker off
the using hand soap and lukewarm water, then use a paper towel to dry the piece. Now I can turn the solder black using a
chemical solution called a patina I use a plastic container and an old
toothbrush, I wear gloves because the patina will stain in clothes and skin. I
pour a small amount of patina in the container and begin scrubbing the piece.
The solder immediately turns black and now it is just a matter of making sure I
get in all the nooks and crannies. Once I am satisfied with how it looks I
wash off the remaining patina with water, the patina won’t come off the solder
just the glass. I dry the piece and use window cleaner to clean the glass, over
time the solder will oxidize to prevent this car wax can be applied to the
entire piece. I didn’t have any when I was recording but I will for the next
video. And here is the Plumbob from the Sims.
The sun was not in the best position to show the piece using natural sunlight
and I had to use an artificial light instead. If you have any suggestions for
how I can improve future videos let me know down in the comments. I already have
plans for more videos, but after that I’ll start taking viewer requests. Thank
you for watching. Like, Share, Comment and Subscribe if you enjoyed this video. And
I will see you in the next one.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. This was so thorough and clear! And it looks great too. 🙂 Do you ever do a beaded edge, and do you know if that makes a difference in the strength of the piece?

  2. This was so informative, thank you! Very well put together video. I'll be watching more.

    I have a few questions. Was the sponge wet while you were soldering? Also, where so to do this? I don't have a shop space so I'd have to work in my living room, but would you say this is a bit to messy or unsafe for that?

  3. Woua that's nice and well explained.
    I can barely draw a wiener with a pen when you could do the stained glass windows of Notre-Dame!

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