Should You Buy Alloy Or Carbon Mountain Bike? | Ask GMBN Tech
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Should You Buy Alloy Or Carbon Mountain Bike? | Ask GMBN Tech

October 9, 2019

– Welcome to Ask GMBN Tech. Of course this is the weekly Q and A show. You ask the questions, and we try and give you the right answers. Get your questions into the email address on the bottom of the screen there, or get involved in those comments. Don’t forget to use the
hashtag #AskGMBNTech. Okay, Servius asks, if my bike has a 130 mill travel fork, and 120 mill of suspension on the rear, is it enough for some
easy blue downhill trails, mostly cornering and some small jumps? I’m planning on visiting
a resort in the summer, and would like to hit the bike park, but I’m afraid I’m gonna bottom out, because I don’t have a lot of travel. Yeah, absolutely fine. Even a hardtail will be fine. It will be less comfortable, of course, but you don’t have to worry
about that sort of thing, especially on blues, greens, any trails like that. And even reds, you’re probably okay on, as long as you don’t go too near some of the bigger features. Now, don’t worry about your
suspension bottoming out. That’s a good sign that
you’re actually using all of your suspension. Now generally, on an average ride, you should be bottoming
your suspension out a couple of times, really. That means you’re using
the full suspension. It’s setup correctly to your weight, and you’re getting what the
suspension should be doing. Now, if you’re not, then
perhaps you need to have a look at adjusting your suspension slightly. If you’re unsure on how
to adjust your fork, or your shock, I’m gonna
link two videos below this. So if you look in the
description underneath, they should hopefully guide
you through the basics of what you need to understand there. But don’t worry too much about the bike. I think the bike will be absolutely fine. So, provided your bike is setup for you, it’s gonna be no problem. Now, something you could do, just to increase your comfort, and also make the bike feel like it has a bit more travel, is perhaps consider the option to get some slightly larger volume tires. They’re gonna have more grip. It’s gonna make the bike feel
more comfortable, more stable. And at the end of the day, it’s gonna be basically a
nicer experience for you. So that’s definitely a cheaper, and probably a better option than changing the bike, or any other things you
might be looking at. Okay, now question from Crank One Open. Why does my non-drive
side crank keep loosening? Is it because my lead
foot is non-drive side? Should I learn to bunny hop
with drive side in lead? If I go over torque
specs on the crank arm, the cranks will drag during rotation. Hm, alright. So, if your crank is installed correctly, and is torqued up correctly,
it shouldn’t loosen. That is assuming that the interface between the axle and the end of the crank is not been rounded, it’s
not damaged in any way, it’s a good positive fit, and it’s sat on there squarely. Now, the fact that you say that if you over-torque it, from what the recommended
torque setting is, it sounds like it’s tightening up. To me it sounds like that’s pre-loading the bearings too much. You’re squashing the bearings. If that’s the case, then your bottom bracket might
not be installed properly into your frame, and it does sound, if you got the screw-in bottom bracket, that you need one of those little spacers, the 2 1/2 mill spacers. Now, I don’t know your details, and your particular bike. It could be one on the drive side, or one on the non-drive side, but I think you’ll find
that’s probably the solution. You put one of those in,
then put your cranks on. They should bottom out completely when you’re tightening this thing up, and you should be able to
tighten it up insanely tight. Really, the torque on
a crank is very tight, and you should be able
to freely spin them. I would check that first. It does sound like that’s your problem. It’s nothing to do with
being left foot forward, right foot forward, any of that stuff. If your crank’s not installed properly, that is a symptom of it. So, good luck, I hope
you haven’t damaged it. Alright, from Christopher Grimmer next. Hey Doddy. I removed the outer sleeve of my RockShox Monarch Plus shock, to see the conditions of
it, and some oil dripped. Is this normal? I’ve seen many of your videos showing how to remove the sleeve to
put volume spacers and so on. I’ve never seen oil dripping, or this being mentioned in the video. Thanks. Now assuming yours is the type where you slide that sleeve off to expose the volume
spacers, the red spacers, then no, it’s absolutely fine. The oil that will be there is just purely lubricating oil, in order for that sleeve
to slide over them in the first place. So, as long as it’s a few drips, you’ve got nothing to worry about. If oil’s literally dripping
out of there, nonstop, then it sounds like the
damper on the inside might actually have a leak. And all that will be
is like a leaky O-ring, or something like that, and it might just need a service. The same applies if your actually unscrewing the whole air can, and there’s some oil dripping out. That’s just lubrication oil that goes on the shaft when you assemble the shock, and again, nothing to worry about. You can easily replace that. You can get some oil. You can get Fox float fluid. There’s a whole number of
other similar oils out there for that purpose. I wouldn’t be too worried about it. It does sound to me it’s
just lubricating oil, not damper oil. Ooh, this one’s good. So from Ben Patt43. Ask GMBN Tech, do you
ever think mountain bikes will adopt the floating disc brake? A lot of dirt bikes have them. Yep, been there, done that. So, on screen right now is the
Mountain Cycle San Andreas. So this dates back I think to 1991. So this bike was so many firsts. It was one of the first
full suspension bikes. One of the first monocoque
aluminium full suspension bikes, or any bike, full stop. It was one of the first bikes to have an inverted fork, and it was an inverted single crown fork. And it was also one of the first bikes to have disc brakes on it. And they weren’t just disc brakes, they were floating disc, disc brakes. 230 millimeter rotors, massive. Even bigger than what we
have by today’s standards. They were also hydraulic calipers, and they were cable operated. So, this bike was leagues
ahead of its time. Now, the thing with floating discs, they’re great, they
allow for heat expansion, and stuff like that, but, proper floating discs, they rattle. They’re noisy, they’re annoying. On a bicycle, you notice
that sort of thing. On something with an engine, you’re never gonna notice that. Now, this might sound like
a bit of a trivial thing, but it actually does
make a big difference, and of course, the
manufacturing of these discs, look how heavy duty the disc rotors are, the ones on screen. They are huge, and they do weigh a lot. Modern disc rotors don’t
need to be like that, but there are some
floating discs out there. Now Hope have experimented
with floating discs, and dual twin-skin discs over the years, to further dissipate heat. What they’ve settled on
is a very similar thing to what SRAM brakes are doing now, and they have essentially an alloy spider, which is riveted to a steel braking unit. So here’s one of the Hope ones on screen. And here’s one of the SRAM ones on screen. So you can see the kind of similarities in what they’re looking for. And the idea is, the aluminium
spider dissipates the heat from that braking surface, and the rivets allow
some sort of expansion, and basically some movement
of that disc rotor itself. But also bear in mind,
compared to dirt bikes, or motocross bikes, mountain bike discs don’t get anywhere near as hot. So, there’s not quite a necessity to have full-time floating discs. But they’ve been experimented with. They are around, they are floating around. Excuse the pun, but just
not always necessary. Okay, now from Ryan Stevens. Doddy, I’m looking at a
new enduro or trail bike. My budget can’t get to
a top spec carbon bike. Do you think it’s better to
get a top spec suspension bike in aluminium, over a lower spec bike with a carbon frame? Thanks, really enjoying the show. Well, thanks for the props on that. Personally, I would pick the
better spec’ed aluminium bike. Now carbon bikes look fantastic, and have lovely ride attributes, but there’s also nothing
wrong with aluminium. Just because maybe your
friends have got carbon, or you’re seeing a lot of
posh carbon bikes out there, don’t feel lured to go for that. There’s nothing wrong with alloy. I’ve got an alloy bike,
and I absolutely love it. Now, that said, if you
wanna go for a carbon frame, if that’s what you want, and you wanna ride that frame, and upgrade it in time, then you need to consider
what’s on that bike. Now when making the choice on bikes, let’s say you’ve got a
4000 budget on the bike. So you’re looking at high spec’ed alloy, or a cheaper spec’ed carbon bike. Now you need to be careful, because the lure here
that the manufacturers are luring you in with, is the fact that you’ve
got a carbon frame. So, in your eyes, you’re thinking wow, it’s got a carbon frame,
it’s gonna be lighter, stronger, all the rest of it. It’s gonna look better. Technically its’ gonna last longer. All that sort of stuff. However, to make that cost the same as the alloy bike, which
is substantially cheaper and easier to manufacture
than the carbon offering, they have to save money in other places. Now, on a bike, if it’s
got cheap transmission, that doesn’t matter. That’s a consumable part of the bike. Don’t be quick to upgrade
it, just wear it out. Then get it recycled, and upgrade it to a better one at the time. You can start saving from
the minute you buy your bike. People often by bikes, and the first thing they do is chuck on a new cassette, chain, a better rear derailleur. Don’t do that. There’s no point. It’s gonna wear out
anyway, so just use it. What is important are
the wheels, the shock, and the fork on the bike. Everything else is stuff that’s
easily upgradable in time. So, even the wheels can be upgraded, however, a cheap, heavy set of wheels, A, they’re gonna be weaker, B, the hubs are gonna wear out quicker, and C, they’re gonna
feel really lethargic, heavy, and the bike is not gonna have that nice ride quality that
you would expect it to have, given it’s got a carbon frame. If you compare the same
build, price for price, with the carbon one against
the alloy equivalent, you’ll find the alloy one’s
probably got much lighter, stronger, and better wheels. That’s not the end of the world, because wheels you can obviously
replace them one by one. You don’t have to do that in a pair. But, rear shock, and a suspension fork, they are two very expensive things to upgrade as independent units. Now be careful here,
because the alloy frame may well have a better
spec’ed shock on it, and a better spec’ed fork, whereas the carbon frame, in order to keep that price down, to give you that higher quality frame that you’re looking for, it may well have a cheaper shock and fork. Now, a lot of budget forks and
shocks are absolutely fine, but just make sure that the ones that are on your particular choice are ones that you can upgrade, you can tune them, you can adjust them to what you want. Make sure it has the rebound, the compression damping
that you want on there. Make sure, if you wanna be
doing this sort of thing, that you can pair volume spacers in there. The same goes for the fork. And with a suspension fork as well, make sure it’s something
that, if you want to, that you can upgrade the internals on the inside at a later date. Now it’s not something that
everyone chooses to do, but if you’re stuck with a base-end fork, really there’s nothing
that you can do with it, except use it, sell it, buy another fork to go on there. And sometimes, that can be 1000 pounds to stick on the front of a bike. So, quite often you’ll
find that alloy bike will have a really good fork on it. So for that reason, I would
pick the alloy in this case, but just take into account, if you wanna save a bit of cash on the rest of the componentry, and get that really good frame, just make sure you’ve got a
few fundamentals in there. Wheel size comparison from William Dunn. Now, I’ve noticed on many new bikes that come in 29 inch and 27 1/2 inch, they’ve got differences in the
amount of suspension travel. For example, the Nukeproof
Mega has 10 mill difference between the 27 1/2 and the 29’er. Why are they doing this? That’s quite a good question, William. Well, really it does
differ between brands, because they don’t always do this, but really, what I can think, is it offers the same characteristics of what they want the bike to be between the wheel sizes. Now, the Nukeproof Mega clearly
is an enduro-focused bike. Its strength really is in
rough, fast, and descending. Sure thing, it will climb
up anything like a goat, but, it’s not comparable to
lighter weight trail bikes. This bike is a beast. Now on the 27 1/2 inch wheel, you’ve got slightly more
travel on the frame. Now, you need that travel to tame the characteristics
of those wheels, but also retain the agility of the bike. Now it’s the other way around
with the bigger wheels. The bigger wheels on the 29’er allow a little bit more rollover, a little bit more of a
steamroller effect on bumps. If you continue the same
wheel travel through, you’ve suddenly got a bike that feels like an absolute monster, so reducing the travel gives the same, or very similar characteristics
between the two. Now a 29’er, despite
being such a huge bike, and I know because I’ve got one, it’s actually pretty agile. Surprisingly so. You just wouldn’t think that it would be, for such a big bike, and that’s done purely by
keeping that travel down. Keeping it feeling a bit more stout. Now it’s not always the case. Evil Bikes, for example, the Reckoning, that’s their 160 29’er. That’s got more travel than their 27 1/2 inch equivalent version, which has I think 151
millimeters of travel. It’s an insane bike, and
it’s basically designed to sort of just smash through
anything that you want. But that’s not always what
a bike manufacturer wants out of their bikes. If they’re offering twin wheel sizes, they often want the frame
to be the shine out thing, and you pick the wheel sizes to suit how you want to ride that bike. Okay, so there’s another
weekly Q and A show in the bag. If you got any questions, or any comments, or anything you’d like that, get intimately involved
in the comments below, and we’ll get back to you for next week. For a couple more useful videos, click down here for some
classic workshop mistakes, and click down here for
some trail side hacks. As always, don’t forget to
subscribe to the GMBN Tech. We love having you guys here. Share it around to everyone,
and give us a thumbs up.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Ask gmbn, I have nukeproof horzony pedal and have the bearings and bushings to service them but I can not find the bushing tool, online, is there another method to remove them, I have noticed chromag use a Tao to remove the bush in theirs, would this be a ok option with the horizon I don't want to damage the pedal body and nukeproof won't answer my enquirys and it's honestly put me off a company I was a massive fan

  2. aluminum bikes for life, #noshitbon that can break on first crash….by tigh damage like it happened to Eric

  3. #askgmbntech, Doddy, love the show! I think you missed the question in regards to the floating disc brake. I think he was asking more specifically about a floating disc brake caliper, and not so much the floating rotors. I know some of the Kona's (Coilers?) used a floating disc brake caliper and a few other retro/rewind bikes of the late 90's/early 2000's used them as well, but it'll take some googling!

  4. I'm looking at the canyon sender 8.0 and it has the 2019 fox 40 performance elite, on the picture it shows it has a FiT GRIP damper (which doesn't exist for the 40 apparently) and in the description it says the fork has High speed and Low speed rebound and compression! But every other fork with FiT GRIP doen't have those adjustments, can't find anything on the fork online and it is frustrating.

  5. #askgmbntech
    If you are running tubeless and get a puncture which can't be fixed other than by using inner tube, what do you do with the sealant already in your tyre?

  6. #askgmbntech Hi doddy. I have two questions. First one – How do you build and trials bike simmiliar to Danny Mac's orange bike? Do you buy dirt jump frame and seperate fork or are there any trials type of bikes, that came with frame and fork together? Asking because i do not want an reak trials bike, i do not like the look of those.
    And second – How do you tell the differences in tool hardness and stifness? Like with steel tools – How do you tell which is hardened, which is more durable and so on by colour or what? Asking because there are good bargains on good tools, but a lot of them say that they're made from metal…like what sort of metal? Thank you!

  7. Hi Doddy I just wanted to extend the question about carbon vs alloy, if you had two bikes the same spec but one carbon and one alloy would you save some money and get the alloy bike or spend the extra money and get carbon bike? Thank.

  8. Hey! I think the user who asked about floating brakes didn't mean floating discs. I think he was talking about those floating brake mounts to avoid interferences with rear suspension

  9. #askgmbntech
    I' currently driving a grand canyon al 5.9
    The Suspension doesn't feel too good (too soft but with more pressure too hard, no volume spacers available) but I like the Bike in any different section
    Should I Upgrade my whole Bike to a better/different modell (e.g. neuron/exceed) or just stick with mine and upgrade it over time?

  10. Re Alloy v Carbon. I bought a Scott Genius 940 recently. Im not racing, so went alloy and I dont want to have to take special care of carbon fibre frames. I think the weight saving on a carbon is a little over 1kg. Not worth it to me, plus I was stretching my budget as it was.

  11. #askgmbntech My SRAM NX derailleur since day 1 of having my bike doesn’t go tight. The bolt tightens up but the derailleur still has a large amount a side to side movement. I’ve checked and everything is tight but the derailleur still moves.

  12. What protection should I put on an alloy frame (I plan on chain stay protection for sure. Not sure about down tube, cable wear, heel rub, etc.)? I'm not super worried about damage and wear but if there are certain things that are fairly standard I would like to know. Thanks! Oh and I would love to hear what the comment section has to say about this. Feel free to add your two cents.


  13. #askgmbntech Hi there, i like to do trialy stuff on my entry level hardtail (trek 3900 hyd disc brakes xrt suntour + shimano acera..dh wheels and tubeless setup) the thing is i loosen my cranks once, since then i've broken 5 pairs includind new drivetrains so i just stop buying more cranks and my beloved bike is now back on the yard with no use, how could i fix this should i upgrade a $600 bike with a better drive train ($300) or is there something cheaper i could fix to avoid breaking every crank set i buy (normal square one like the 3×9)

  14. Wrong….the "rivets" on Hope rotors are in fact made from Spring Steel and allows the friction surface to move independently from the alloy spider (same construction as a motorcycle rotor), meaning they are in fact floating, unlike the solidly riveted SRAM and Shimano rotors. Secondly, floating rotors only rattle if the retaining springs have lost their elasticity due to being subjected to excessive heat (continued dragging of the brakes can do this due to heat soak). If this occurs, bin the rotor as its structural integrity is compromised and could lead to a catastrophic failure.

  15. #askgmbntech Hi Doddy! I currently own a 29er hardtail and it used to be 3x but I converted it into 1x 30t (I have 11-36 cassette), but made me a bit slow on the bike lately, even at high cadences. Our trails are around 7-10 km far and I used to sprint as a warm-up, so I wanted a bigger chainring for that purpose, but I don't want to use a front derailleur anymore. I've heard of Vyro Cranksets (24-36) and it had a nice review, but I don't hear many people talking about it. What are your thoughts about it?

  16. AL all the motherfucking way. Carbon not worth the hype, once cracked forever fucked. Funny how when new bikes come out they only test the carbon ones. AL's already proven.

  17. #askgmbntech hello, I am saving my money to upgrade to a full suspension bike. I ride a 29er hard tail and tend to bend rims easily. Will going to a 27.5in wheel help with that.

  18. The aluminum vs. carbon debate is still interesting. I have an aluminum version of a model that has a carbon twin for the same amount that was stated in the vid. Same price. Both bikes the same weight. The cheaper components add the extra couple of pounds and even the manufacturer admits to expecting riders to upgrade down the line on the carbon.

  19. @02:04 Had the same problem with my SC SOLO last year. I tackled the challenge of building it myself. The problem was that I installed one spacer on each side of the BB, so when I torqued the cranks to spec, they rubbed against the bearings. Removed the spacers and the crank hasn't come loose ever since.

    hope this helps.

  20. Hello. I am looking at buying a Nukeproof Scout and am having a hard time deciding between going with the 27.5 inch wheels or 29 inch wheels. The 27.5 bike has 140mm of travel and the 29 inch bike has 130mm of travel. Will I really feel the extra 110mm of travel or will the bigger wheels roll over things easier and make it so I wont feel the difference. Thank You 🙂

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  22. Ryan in some cases the alloy bike might look better than the carbon version as well (at least that is the case with Transition bikes in my opinion)…. on that note Transition bikes generally has a pretty good bang for your buck, can sometimes even rival that of the direct brands.

  23. Carbon is way to overrated Chips cracks or even breaks things that would never happen with aluminum Way to overrated I prefer aluminum alloy I find it way more durable One man's opinion God bless good luck out there and remember keep cycling Peace out Wm.😆😎😇🎶

  24. #askgmbntech Is there anyway to increase mid-stroke support on a Yari RC? I've been trying to get the fork set up, but I either have to run it firm with less small bump sensitivity and sag or softer where it feels divey. I have tried extra tokens, but that seems to only make a difference right towards the end of the travel. Thanks for the great show and keep it up.

  25. #askgmbntech hi Doddy I have a Merida 120 7.700 2016 it comes stock with a fix float 120mm Shock I was wondering if I could put a larger one in like say a 140-150mm one. Love the show

  26. I always thought the shorter travel 29 was due to the room when the larger back wheel moves up. And to have more travel they would need longer stays. But that was just a guess

  27. 06:55 high spec ALU VS low spec CARBON
    00:20 minimal travel length for bikepark
    02:00 crank arm spacers and torque
    03:33 is oil under shock sleeve ok?
    04:44 floating disc brake on mtb?
    06:55 high spec alu vs low spec carbon
    10:46 27.5" vs 29" travel difference

  28. #askgmbntech What creates the most rolling resistance in a tyre? Is it the tread pattern and compound or the width of the tyre?

  29. #askgmbntech..Doddy, I have a 2017 Vitus VR Seniter 29 hardtail, which I love, but I have one area on the bike that I would like to either fix or maybe there is a hack you could recommend. On the drive side seat stay my rear mech cable runs on the underside of the stay, which is fine, but there's a section of bare cable that's exposed to the elements, i.e. there no cable housing on it. Do you know anyway to seal the exposed cable from the elements, or do I have to live with it..? Thanks. Always love your shows.

  30. Love the show I was just wondering why a lot of new bikes have pres fit bottom brackets I have a trek remedy 8 2017 and my mate has a merida 160 and they both have press fit bbs they might not be top of the line but they are desint bikes I was just wondering why they don't have screw in bbs I thought they were better

  31. #askgmbntech what frame protection, if any, do you and the guys at GMBN use? Considering how far I should go with frame protection.

  32. Hey doddy. At the moment I ride a Merida big seven 40 and I’m wanting to upgrade and I’ve been considering the new Marin san Quentin I ride a lot of easy trails and street riding and just thrashing around but I was wondering if the Marin will be a better bike to ride more aggressive trails and bigger jumps. What are your thoughts

  33. I will definitely go for an aluminium frame on my next mountain bike. I have broken two Lapierre carbon mountain bike frames. Worst bikes I have ever owned.

  34. Does the new single crank cog system have more friction than older units, due to the clutch resistance. I have noticed since getting a latest spec bike i feel when i service it things don’t seem so smooth anymore. ie. takes more force to rotate the crank.

  35. #askgmbntech Hi. I have a Scott Spark 920. It's a carbon framed bike. I bought it used. I noticed that the components are a mixture of SRAM and Shimano. Shifter and Crank are GX SRAM, whilst the brakes are SLX and the rear cassette is a Shimano. Upgrading to a new bike is very expensive and I was wondering what your advise would be for a good reliable upgrade for long marathon XC Sunday rides. We do 60/70kms on average . Many thanks. Tahir.

  36. #askgmbntech hi doddy, i want to buy a new bike for longer trips (50-80km) and for a little shredding… I like the canyon neuron al 7.0 in large and would like to hear your thoughts on this bike.
    Thanks and keep your awesome work!

  37. #askgmbntech I am a mtb starter and it has been 3 months since i bought a cube aim pro xc starter level hardtail , i also shoved a rockshox recon rl 100 mm last month . Should i keep upgrading it with better wheels , bars and drivetrain , or should i buy another bike ? I ride lots of roots and rock gardens btw. Thanks in advance

  38. Can you put a fox 36 and an bigger shock on the back on a cannondale habit so you can have more travel so you can do bigger jumps and some downhilling

  39. Hi gmbn I want to build a ebike with a 5 kw motor and a cvt but that is a lot of work so the question is if I should buy a ebik or build one? #askembn

  40. #askgmbntech Hi I'm riding 2018 Spectral 8.0CF L. It has 140 mm rear travel. the 2019 Spectral has 150 mm rear travel. On 2019 Spectral the damper has 5mm more stroke. 2018 – 230x60mm, 2019 – 230×65 . Do you think I can put longer travel damper to upgrade my rear travel to 150mm?

  41. Nice explanations Doddy ! BTW, I changed the chainring after only 1 season (before worn out) to go AB-Oval and it was worth it. Climbing technical trails seems more rewarding now

  42. hey #askgmbntech if I want to be able to ride xc trails but also go up to the mountains and ride enduro, what travel bike do you recommend?

  43. I have seen in person and on videos carbon bikes taking fairly light hits and that cracks the frame, I think carbon frames are very over rated, and no we’re near as strong when you crash.

  44. For the longest time ive been having second thoughts as to whether i buy carbon or alloy, 27.5 or 29, trail or enduro. This video gave me the best insight. Thanks so much!
    Alloy, 29er, trail bike, im coming for you!

  45. #askgmbntech Hi Doddy, i got a small problem with my 2008 RS Pike , its a 454 Dual Air, and what ever i do i feel like the fork its not stiff enough for me. I'm a big rider, 115kg , but i don't know if that should be such a big problem to make my fork a lil bit more stiffer.

  46. #askgmbntech
    Somebody told me once that I should shift to the smallest pinion when I don't use my bike for a longer period of time to relieve the pressure off the derailleur's springs. Do the springs really wear out by staying in a bigger pinion?
    Thanks for your Q&A – it's great!

  47. #askgmbntech great show! very informative does carbon wheels become weak over time? How long can you use it for?

  48. With the way you guys love coasting down hill like you're on an amusement park ride, your frame could be lead and you'd never notice.

  49. Would you recommend using something like the Velosolo hub spacer kit to run a boost fork with a non boost frame/wheel? #askgmbntech #askgmbn

  50. #askgmbntech the next bike I want to get has suntor fork and shock (120mm travel) I was wandering weather that would be enough to go to bike parks such as 417. If not should I upgrade, but what to.

  51. #askgmbntech Floating brake I first thought of floating brake calipers. Had one on my first MTB which was actually my dads. No idea what it was. But why aren't there any floating brake calipers in the mtb industry while its the most common brake type in the automobile industry?

  52. #ASKGMBNTECH I have a sr suntour 140mm fork and it is very stiff. Have changed the pressure and it is always stiff. Anyway to sort this out

  53. #askgmbntech Dear Hell O'Tech! Do you recommend any lubricant/cleaning/conitioninig sprays for suspension and dropper seatpost stantions? Or just cleaning with soft cloth after each ride would suffice? Any knowledge about manufacturers warranty policies regarding such substances?

  54. #askgmbntech Hi Doddy, I'm starting with the Tech Channel first, since this is about the actual bikes. It would be fun and interesting if you put together an overall count of World Cup riders running 27.5 and count of 29ers, including privateers? Maybe for EWS too. Love the show and your passion! Cheers from the States.

  55. #askgmbntech Hi Doddy love the show watch it everyday and has taught me lots about bike history. I have a question relating to broken spokes. I have a 26" rear wheel ( transition revolution 25), which is a Norco fluid lt2, a bike that spends most of its time riding park and jumping. In the last 3 months, I've had 5 or 6 broken spokes ( all at the j bend). I was wondering if there was anything you recommend doing to prevent spokes breaking, finally, it would be awesome and useful if you could do a video on how to replace spokes. Thx Arif Khan

  56. askgmbntech I can't get off my xx1 cranks, it's like seized, or should I remove the little 4 holed cap first ? And how ?

  57. Hi Doddy , I am buying a new bike, it has a fox fork , in one of your videos you gave a link to a rebound calculator based on your weight however that only works for RockShox forks is there an equivalent for fox forks ? Thanks #askgmbntech

  58. #askgmbntech Last Christmas I was given the promise of a new bike of my choosing. I live in the northern parts of Sweden and temperatures regularly drop beneath -20°C, and I love to be able to ride in the snow. I'm currently borrowing a 2015 Fuji Wendigo (on 26×4.7 Vee Bulldozers) fatbike for the first time and I must say that I'm loving it even though it's a 17.5 frame and I need a 21.5er. Either way, no matter where I look I always seem to come back to the 2019 Trek Farley 5, a 27.5×4.5 fatbike. The thing is, I doubt I want to run a fully rigid fatbike in the summer. I've seen a lot of people talk about changing to 29+ wheels, both with and without adding a suspension fork, during the summer. Not only do they fit, but it won't "compromise the geometry". Now, finally to my question. Do you think that changing to 29+ tires on a fatbike is a good idea, and what does the aforementioned quote mean?
    Also, from what I've read, it's not worth bothering with a suspension fork when it gets this cold, would you agree with that?
    A little sidenote, I currently own a Merida Maroon Matts. I mostly do urban mountainbiking and commuting, but I'm getting into trail riding more and more. I should note that rolling resistance is not my biggest concern. The way I see it, it's just more calories being burnt and I really need to loose a few extra kilos, gone from 99 to 86kg last year, I still have ways to go.

    Also, excuse the mile long question. It's my first time doing this.

  59. #askgmbntech for about £1500 should I buy an aggressive hardtail, full suspension or secondhand full suspension.Love the vids keep em coming !

  60. I used to ride grade 5 tracks and hit 1.5m drops on a 100mm travel hardtail and it was fine, bike still running well to this day.

  61. I upgraded all picked from DNM back floater front 120mm travel DNM ! alloy aluminum 7500 frame frame hand made ! breaks hydrolic  27.5 Loud volt !

  62. i went with a good spec aluminium bike rather than a low spec carbon bike.
    I paid 2,6k euros for my mountainbike which is a lot of money for me. a similarly spec'd carbon bike would have cost me over a grand more

  63. i got a cheap bike doody, the brand name is marin and it is from malaysia not california what i should do to upgrade it?

  64. Neither one. Steel is real!!Steel (or titanium) will last longer and endure more abuse than other materials. Steel bends and dents, it doesnt fail catastrophically.
    Order a custom frame. You get EXACTLY the bike YOU want. Not what marketing idiots think you want. You know who built your bike and maybe support your local economy. If you have issues, you know who built your bike and whose feet to hold to the fire! Ive never had issues with my 5 customs over 40 years. Every one of mine are still ridden. The price can be competitive with upper mid level to high end carbon. There are quite a few smaller name builders, usually one man businesses that are more affordable than the big names and you probably wont wait as long either. I ride and recommend Rock Lobster of Santa Cruz. Paul is a great guy, great work ethic, great quality and over 30 years of experience!!!

  65. Carbon is nice until you smash into a rock and destroy your $2500.00/$1250.00 crash replacement frame when AL you might get a dent. I have a 2018 Spectral 6.0 and I don't worry about a few pounds between carbon and AL not to mention carbon is usually MUCH more expensive. I will upgrade the M-1900 wheels to XM 1501 and save 200 grams that's it

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