NU’s Archery Q&A | June 2016
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NU’s Archery Q&A | June 2016

August 18, 2019


Hey guys, this is NUSensei. Today we
have another monthly archery question and answer. Now this month I’ve only chosen a
handful of questions. The main reason being that, one, I didn’t
get as many as last time, but, secondly, there are a few really good
questions which I want to cover in specific videos later on. The first
question comes from Jace, and he wants to know about the pros and cons about using
a three-finger draw compared to a thumb draw. In very, very broad terms the
thumb is the strongest digit on the hand. It gives you the most power in your draw.
Whereas the three finger method — or the Mediterranean draw — has less power but
more control. In terms of using the thumb draw this mostly depends on which style
of archery you practice. The thumb draw was far more predominant in eastern
style archery. We’re looking at Eastern European horseback archery, Mongolian
archery, Korean archery, Japanese Kyūdō. Most of these style use the thumb draw.
There are a few stock reasons. One of the tactical advantages
is that because you load from the other side of the bow using the thumb draw, it
tends to be easier to load and shoot from horseback. Now these aren’t the definitive advantages
of a thumb draw, but traditionally it has been used as the preferred method for
various reasons. I’m sure proponents of the thumb draw will add in more
specific details and corrections, and that’s fine, but basically speaking it’s
a trade-off between power and control. Andrew asks “when should you start
increasing your target range?” By this I assume he means distance. I think that while shooting at very long
distances has its unique romantic feel. It comes from seeing the arrow float and
arc into the target. I think, really, you should start close,
and only start moving back to longer distances once you feel confident enough that you will not miss the target.
In terms of exactly when, a lot of archery clubs will have a
distance qualification program where you have to achieve certain scores at
certain distances before you move back. One reason is it’s a safety issue, so you don’t break arrows or overshoot the target.
The second reason is it gives you a more positive foundation. I think people who move back too soon
and miss a lot of arrows lose a lot of motivation to shoot
because they feel like they’re terrible. They feel like they can’t be an archer because they can’t hit the target, but in fairness they are going too far too soon. So, think of a way in which you can
quantify your shooting, and once you reach certain benchmarks and milestones that’s when you move back.
Honestly, for a lot of people, when they’re struggling at long distance, they go
back anyway. Going too far too soon will
make you focus on the wrong things in your process, and you end up being target-
fixated or having tunnel vision on your target rather than paying attention
to the rest of your form. Which leads to Andrew’s second question “does distance matter for form training?” and
the answer to that is absolutely not. There is no real need to shoot long
distance if you’re only working on form. If you’re shooting in your backyard and
just training for form and muscle memory, then, look, as close as you can!
3m, 5m, 10m if you really want to, but the closer you are to the target the less you worry about not hitting it.
When it comes to form, you shoot the same way at 10 meters as at 50 meters or 70 meters. People who struggle at long distances, their form starts to fall apart, they move to close range blind bale
shooting at 5m where you can’t miss the target, and you just try and get that feeling back. So, form practice ->close distance.
You don’t try to practice form on a long distance target. Now again, we’re talking about
people who are elite, professional archers, mostly they train at 70m.
That’s what they shoot in competition, and they do their form training at 70m, but they
have specific one on one, professional coaching. That’s a little different from
casual backyard regular practice. So, yeah, as close as possible.
Distance isn’t really a factor. When you try to train form at long distance
you do silly things like being target fixated, trying too hard to aim,
getting target panic, and so on. Eliminate variables, shoot close distance
for form training. Question from Rust, who is starting with club barebows
and going on to an Olympic style bow later on: “Should I learn string walking?”
It doesn’t hurt to do so. It depends on how you do your bare bow
shooting. You have the instinctive style, and a lot of people are “instinctive
purists” where all you do is shoot instinctive. That’s fine, but using a point of aim
method, like string walking, is fine. In fact, if you want to achieve any form of
consistency that you can rely on, not like instinctive experience, but
actually trying to aim with a bare bow, then yes, string walking is a method that you
can depend on. It gives you a reference point, and that inherently gives you a
certain edge. There are other methods like face walking or gap shooting, but
string walking is fine. It’s just a technique, and you can always
learn other techniques later on. It won’t hinder your ability to use sights on an Olympic recurve. You get used to different
techniques and different styles. @social3ngin33rin asks “is it better to
buy good limbs on a cheap riser if you’re stuck on a budget?”
While limbs make a pretty big difference, especially cheap limbs versus the very
top end limbs. There’s a big difference in smoothness, and the draw force curve, and stacking.
I still think that it’s better to go for a good riser and cheap limbs. It’s much easier to swap out the limbs
compared to the riser. The riser is your hub. It’s where you place all your components. It has the most effect on vibration.
A good riser will get more out of low-end limbs, whereas a cheap riser will be a bottleneck,
in my opinion. Additionally, the good risers will
determine the balance and feel of your bow, whereas limbs don’t do that. So, limbs might make a big difference in
performance, but i think the riser is still, ultimately, the heart of the bow.
I would still prioritize getting a good riser and cheap limbs rather than the
other way around. Richard asks “is it normal for your clicker to move?”
Generally speaking yes, it’s normal. It’s certainly not
unusual for clickers to move from vibration and from usage, and it’s something
which you have to check each shot. It depends on what kind of clicker you have.
If you have the single point mounted clickers with the screw, then they can move back
and forth, and you do have to check each time. Can you prevent that? Well, you
could use washers and all that, but it’s not really a huge noise, but it’s something which
is part of your pre-shot check. You’ve just got to make sure the clicker is in the same spot. Now, if it moves too frequently, yeah, I
think you need to change the screw or add a washer, but most clickers when
properly attached don’t move that frequently.
You just have to watch out for it. Meander asks a very good question: “Do you reserve separate arrows
for competition and practice?” I personally don’t. I only have one set
of arrows… or two actually. My ACEs which I use for my regular target
shooting, and my current batch of Gold Tip Traditionals, which I use
with the bare bow demonstrations. It’s not unusual for a serious competitive archer, someone who spends a lot of time
competing in different events, to have different sets of arrows for different events.
People will have indoor arrows, outdoor arrows, arrows for really windy conditions, field arrows,
clout arrows, and some people use the same set for every single event, but the people
who are really serious and know their equipment really well, will personalize and customize different
sets for different events. Billy asks for a recommendation for
a bare bow on a budget. This is a very common question just
because a lot of people want confirmation on their first purchase, and really any bare bow Olympic riser, that’s reasonably priced, is good enough. The bows like the SF Premium, or the
SF Forged+ especially, are great entry level possibilities for a beginner.
If you want a specific bare bow, like just for bare bow shooting,
with potential sights and stabilizers later on, there are a lot of alternatives. I mean, things like the
Cartel Fantom are good options in some shops. The main thing to look
out for is that for a typical entry level recurve, for bare bow at least, a lot of the
entry level bows are quite heavy. This makes it a bit easier for a beginner to hold steady. It’s more forgiving in terms of vibration and variations in your grip,
so it’s a bit easier to use these heavier beginner level bows, whereas the high-end
bows tend to be a bit more light weight and balance differently. You need more control and more
discipline to make the most out of them. It doesn’t mean you can’t use them, but they
can be a bit more punishing for slight mistakes. And the question of the month is again from David! Unfortunately, this question isn’t a very
good question, but I find it a very funny question, and the question is
“what question do you get asked most often?” The most common question I get asked is
“what bow do you use?” For starters, I use a Win&Win Inno CXT. That’s my main competition bow,
but the reason why I get asked this question, it’s actually pretty
interesting. I didn’t really think about this. The main reason why I get asked this
question I think is because I don’t actually say so in most of my videos.
This is just.. when you make hundreds of archery videos, you tend not to include your bow in every
single video, but i know a lot of people have a fascination with details and specifications. Like when you play a game, you want to
know what specs the person’s PC has, or when someone’s driving a car what mods they have. I think archery has a similar fascination. There are a lot of technical details
which I’ll want to find out about and look up and compare, so I think
the norm for a lot of other hobbies is to include an equipment list, and most of
my videos don’t have that. I just use whatever I have lying around in my stuff,
so I don’t really mention it every single time. It’s a little tedious to include that in
every video, in every description. I have been doing it a bit more often as of late, but that’s probably the reason why
people ask is they see the bow, they don’t know what it is, so they want to
find out, and normally the description is where they find it, but a lot of
people who shoot, normally don’t mention it. I know archers who have one off form checks
or demonstration videos might list it very proudly. Because it’s become the
norm for me to use my equipment, I tend not to mention it every single time. Anyway, that’s it for this month’s Q&A.
As usual, if you have any questions feel free to leave them below or send me a message via YouTube or
Facebook or email me. This is NUSensei.
Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you next time.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. I have a quick question for you!

    My wife is left handed and I got her a bow to start shooting with me. She is getting sever slap on the inside of her elbow from the string. I went and watched a while to follow and we found out her elbow hyperextends. To the point that when she naturally puts her wrist perpendicular to the ground, she has her elbow crease parallel.

    I am trying to get it easier for her, but she says it feels weird to physically force her elbow into the correct position. Any ideas on how to get this resolved?

  2. Up date, my no named china made compound bow has aided me in about 7 more drone rescues since my post, two in the last two days. and UPS has just delivered my diamond infinite edge compound yesterday, it looks awesome but I dare not touch it until it's properly tuned by someone who can instruct me on what to do, how to stay safe, and proper maintenance. after that? look out drone's! thanks again Sensei

  3. Question? Is there anything wrong with putting a drop of thread tightener (locktight) on the threaded part of your arrow tip, so you dont have them falling off if you dont hand tighten them every day?

  4. Can you please do a video or at least a detailed text regarding tiller and how much someone should adjust theirs, especially through feedback(is there any?)?

  5. Hi NUSensi, How should the nock index with spin wings? I have read it should line up like a "Y" as opposed to how vanes line up with cock pointing away from the bow? keep ripping wings every now and then.

  6. Hi, do you find that your glasses get in the way of the string at times? I find that at full draw, the string ends up moving my glasses and it can be somewhat distracting as the lens shifts the perception of the target. Cheers!

  7. Richard @ 7:17
    If you are very careful and delicate, you may use Plumber's Teflon Thread Tape (PTFE tape) and that will hold your Clicker better. {{Because of the tiny thread size, normal 6mm tape'll be hard to get on it!!!}} Make sure to apply in same direction as “`tightening“` a nut should be; and it won't bunch up when inserting into riser. I use this trick. Years and years on all bow bits 🙂

  8. My Samick Sage exploded on me today. The bottom limb split in half whilst I was at full draw. What should I do now? Am I entitled to replacement limbs?

  9. Thank you for the info on form practice. I was struggling with where to place my target at home for form practice.

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