NU’s Archery Q&A | July 2016
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NU’s Archery Q&A | July 2016

August 15, 2019


Hey guys, this is NUSensei.
This is a very belated archery Q&A. This is meant to cover the questions from July.
Unfortunately, I’ve been very busy with other things the last couple of weeks, including
school projects, some competitions, illness, and of course the Olympic Games.
So while all this is happening I have been putting it on the backburner. I do apologize, but I am going to answer some really good questions that have come out of July.
Firstly, two questions from Squire Ren. The first question is “do you need
to have side rods in your stabilize setup?” While, ultimately, you probably do what
side rods in a full set-up for your stabilizers, you don’t actually need side
rods for your first stabilizer set. Many beginner packages actually come with only a
long rod stabilizer. The long rod does most of the work. The side rods make it a
little easier to keep stable. So, no, you don’t need side rods. Although, eventually, you
probably do you want to get them. Second question: “does a loud bow
indicate that the bow is out of tune?” Not necessarily. Loud bows can be caused
by several reasons. Some bows are naturally loud, but the most likely cause of
a loud bow is the brace height being too small. If the brace height… or the bow is
under strung, that is, the string is too long, or the brace height is too short, then
what will happen is the string will slap against the limbs. That’s the loud noise. It’s very inefficient. It does lose a lot of
energy, and this may mean it’s out of tune. It isn’t the cause, necessarily, it just means
that you might need to check your string length or add twists to the string to
increase your brace height. It doesn’t mean it’s out of tune, though it probably
will be out of tune if it’s too short. Question from… any%#@? Hmmm.
The question is “is there anything wrong with putting a bit of Loctite onto screw-in points?” No, that’s fine. Putting loctite or a
small bit of glue onto your screw-in points is quite normal. Screws will naturally
come loose. Some people like using screws because you can replace the tip really
easily, but, often, for those who are shooting the same set of screws all the time, you may want to just add a bit of glue
to keep them from loosening. This is quite important because a loose point will
actually create some left-right distortion in your shot. So you want to eliminate that variation
by keeping the point as tight as possible. Quesrion from Alexander: “do you
find that your glasses get in the way of shooting?” For me personally, no.
I know some people do have trouble depending on their frames, but I personally don’t find
any issue shooting with my glasses. Arvid asks “how do I know what I’m doing wrong?” That’s actually a really big question.
I’ll cover this in more detail in a different video, but just go through really quickly,
there are actually many causes of common problems. It isn’t just one thing where you go
“oh, that’s what I’m doing.” The three main areas you should examine are
your equipment, your technique, and your mentality or psychology.
The equipment thing might be things like loose vanes, arrows too stiff, something
on the string, and so on. The technique problems might be release, or anchor, or back
tension, and the mentality problems will cover things like having target panic or overthinking the shot process. So any of these areas can
contribute too problematic shooting, so don’t assume that it’s you, sometimes it’s the
bow or the arrows, or likewise don’t blame your gear, it actually might be you. Kayla asks “can you explain string waxing?” The purpose of string waxing is to add
some lubrication to your string. The strands in your string will rub together as you use it.
This abrasive affect will cause the string to wear out. It’ll cause it to dry.
It’ll start fraying. You’ll start seeing fine white hairs on the string. And over time it will make it more brittle
and less stretchy. That means it will lose its speed, and so on. So, waxing the
string will keep it in better condition, it will extend the lifespan of the string,
and yes you should be doing it for both your recurve and you compound. Jay asks
“what happens if we shoot an arrow that’s too stiff?” Unlike shooting a massively under
spined arrow, shooting an over spined arrow doesn’t really have any dramatic effects.
Rather than breaking or exploding, the arrow will simply fishtail really poorly. It wont
correct in flight. It’ll drift off to the left, if you’re a right-handed shooter, or
to the right if you’re a left-handed shooter. So, yeah, nothing you might be
expecting. It’s just really hard to use. Richard asks “what’s the difference
between adjusting the tiller vs adjusting the nocking point?”
The context of this question has to do with the arrow porpoising or moving up and down.
Now, this can be caused by incorrect tiller adjustments and changes in tiller can address this, but nocking point is normally the easiest thing to do. Tiller you probably shouldn’t change
once you establish the right tune for your bow. So, depending on how you’re shooting,
3-under, split-finger, the size of the bow, and so on, you probably don’t want to change that.
It should be a sweet spot. Once you find that, any variation in your arrow flight
up-and-down should be a nocking point issue. So, I would adjust the nocking point
first. If there’s continual problems then do adjust the tiller. These are
slightly different things because the tiller will dictate the speed of the limbs and
how synchronized they are. The nocking points is more the elevation of the arrow.
So, one problem can mask the other. So try to identify what’s actually causing a problem
before making the adjustments. Finally, a question from Abdul
“what do limb savers actually do?” and “what’s the difference between
Formula and ILF limbs?” Honestly I can’t tell you. Formula limbs are Hoyt products and Hoyt features. I’ve never used them. I don’t have anything to
compare with them with, so I can’t give you an objective empirical answer. Someone else who’s
used these products more extensively can probably give you better feedback, but I
can’t really answer that question. Anyway, that’s it for today. Again, sorry
for being so late on this Q&A. Just a lot of things have come up and have eaten into my
time. Do bear in mind that I’m going to take questions for the next Q&A very
shortly, so, obviously, any questions you have ask below. Additionally, I’m going to do a special
edition Q&A relating specifically to the archery at the Olympics in Rio.
So, it you have any Olympic archery questions feel free to ask below, and I’ll make a separate video
in a few days. Anyway this is NUSensei.
Thank you for watching, and I’ll see you next time.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. re loctite, I use loctite on sight mount screws, but for the main sight bar and pressure button I use a bit of bees wax, it's just enough to stop it rattling undone. re Limbsavers, lots of archers claim they're rubbish but lots of top archers use them too. My Hoyt Helix with W&W limbs was noisy no matter what I did with the brace height and string type and weight, the limbsaver cured the noise.

  2. We've just started clearing our back garden (yard, if you prefer) and we suspect that we've got enough length to create a 20yd shooting range. The rear gardens of the houses of the adjoining street back onto the gardens of the houses on our street. What recommendations would you have for making the target area safe, not just for us but for the neighbours that our rear garden back onto?

    This isn't something that we'll do any time soon. There is still plenty of work to do before we get to the point of implementing these ideas.

  3. As always, good advice. Thanks.

    I didn't know that about the loose points, and I have loose points and never thought anything about it. (I just keep tightening them by hand as I shoot.) I've read, or heard somewhere, that using string wax on the screw threads can also help keep them tight; the advantage being that a little heat will make the points easy to remove. Any thoughts?

  4. Question: I've decided i want to start archery and im looking at buying a bow, I wear glasses and have mediocre sight in my right eye therefore for example when i shoot a gun i have to shoot on my left, Will i need to get a LH bow or is the sight on a bow not used like that on a rifle? Thanks!

  5. Keeping my elbow at shoulder height, when drawing my elbow doesn't snap behind my shoulder (locking the load onto my back muscles) until my hand is past my chin and at my jaw nearer my ear. Does this mean my anchor point should be back here and not on my chin? Thanks!
    Shooting Olympic recurve.

  6. what do you use as the backing for you targets ? And how long does it last (meaning estimated (x) thousand arrows)…. I'm in the market for something different…..

    Thanks and love your channel!

  7. Could you explain arrow specifications. I was told to get 3-28/500. So that's what I got… it would be nice to know why. My draw length is 33" and shoot 26lb rated limbs. Calculated draw weight per your previous video is 26/20*(33-28)+26 = 32.5lb.
    Also, What is the proper way to measure arrow length? Tip/no tip?

  8. Although I use a good and protective finger tab, I feel a moderate numbness in my draw finger tips and slightly in my forearm until the elbow. It goes away several hours later. I train only 1.5 hours and my bow is not heavy (68-24). Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

  9. Regarding SCREW IN POINTS RATTLING LOOSE. . . Yes, you may choose to use Loctite or equiv.: but I find it's perfectly suitable to rely on using Plumbers tape [so called TEFLON Tape]. If you're using the regular white stuff, then just over a coupla turns clockwise [when thread peeping out from you finger/thumb pinch] is enough to hold tips in great. (That is: Same direction as when threading INTO INSERT.) If you're using the more expensive PINK stuff, then you'll only need about one turns 🙂

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