IFSC Climbing World Cup Vail 2017 – Bouldering – Finals – Men/Women
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IFSC Climbing World Cup Vail 2017 – Bouldering – Finals – Men/Women

October 18, 2019


Oh the world here for your pleasure put
there from all over Colorado and I receive all the work we’ve got atheneum
mm so we got the USA sitting at just over 8,000 feet or 2500 meters Vail was
first established in 1962 to serve as a base village for what has since become
Colorado’s largest ski resort there are over 5,000 inhabitants in Vail and
they’re generally a sporty bunch with kayaking biking hiking skiing and of
course climbing both on rock and ice all popular with the locals and many of the
residents of Colorado’s capital Denver which lies 100 miles to the east and
provides many weekend visitors to sustain the villages economy this is the
IFS C’s 11th time in Vail and our welcome has been as warm as ever again
II told you I don’t know it I injured my wrist in China and just before this
American Vail I injured my fingers so there were a few things that was on my
mind but I wanted to do the best in this competition so I was quite relaxed and
my condition was good so it was good nobody much stuff the boulders were
really cool and I enjoyed each of them I was really happy that I um did also
third one yesterday it was a tough round for me so yes I was released
yes I’m just relaxed and I hope I would climb like the Sammy’s and we’ll see
what we’ll bring the finals Hey March Tata Namaskar I’m greatly happy that I
passed because each mistakes cost to the final
so I’m really happy for this um I have concentrated to focus on my climbing
style a lot in the last month but results didn’t come out so quite
frustrated but I’m really happy for this time that the result finally came
and I want to do the best for the final copy boys stuck in your running back
where’s everybody yeah and in first place today
you’re the girl waiter from Great Britain for the man yo yo yo yo sleep there you
guys go yes we’ll miss our national competition
Boulder you can be in the world and you’re right here for you guys
I think it performed tonight you got to see that same thing a new saying when we
look at them all right the project start there with you helps you maybe need
fault Oxman all right all right now it’s just you and I so
here’s what’s happening these boulders are tough this is a couple different
styles and climbing one of them we call on Reichstag sort of what it does for
climbers you don’t know what’s happening trying keep them secret they come out
nobody know don’t nobody knows what is that you’re right the finals so I wanna
give you guys a better image we want it to be harder so we wanted to be extra
extra hard so we said Oh murder but we like to get there we let the competitors
check them all out first this is what so special about flying to general winner
be competitive climbing finding anywhere around the world is everybody works
together there’s competition camaraderie right we have all in Saturn I mean
they’re competing against each other but they’re all out here talking with each
other to talk to families as a common language your workshop made it they what
makes that will suck useless pity jungle chump but it allows us to barely get
harder lines and give you guys a better show better experience so that we’re all
y’all there he’s efficient they’re working through what’s called beta so
you just don’t know if not sure how familiar with everybody event so anybody
got a lot they give you some climbing history we call it beta how you do it
alive funny bone smooth what does that mean why do you know theta it’s actually
from the origins of climbing boards hanging out in Smith rocks filming each
other with the Betamax camera maybe I do can I get some beta they would literally
habitation famous mining history right there
so that’s what both of them within our DNA principle and we’re given in the two
minutes per Bowl there’s to be straight for judges are walking around I’m sorry
I mean that that’s exactly what they’re getting recently quick working out with
the orange complete scene japan total domination of here got a little bit more
diverse field for the ladies but it’s a great opportunity this show
is going to get a bigoted one desires I’m sure you guys aren’t used to this
out to you say blistering heat all day I’ve been lucky enough to hang out under
the shade very curtain you guys may be knocking device make sure you get
hydrated I can folders we don’t want anybody drop it trying to the promise
every year we don’t want that oh I you guys look awesome opportunities to give
another big out thank you to LL Bean there’s a commission on exclusive
apparel partner with a GoPro be no gaps ago they’re giving away inflatable
stand-up paddleboards over there lob boots international bridge Coors Light
the Silver Bullet over there there another huge sponsor of ours Kevin Food
Policy Coors Light bass beats whatever you are you’re Malory slime on you
towards a workable hope you guys if you watch we got go our dealer over there
and vendor village sweet Arby’s yeah tutor watch the official timing of the
2017 GoPro mount games the first player serves the podium men’s to tonneau on
devotee in the first place our guys and gals we get one of those Tudor watches
to get shoma big up to the town of Vail just for let this throw this event every
single year and always make it bigger badder the guys they are the parking
just the guys pull the facility there dial they got it they in Saigon if they
didn’t sound wrong the trigger point roll out recover with trigger point
they’re back over there they’re doing tutorials on how to do
they’re getting they make those super well they’ll be cool they still get
behind in the career out here there’s not position we provide serve a low fee
monster here everyone can move it for your money you know if it would ever
make go talk to Larry groom we would say perhaps this is going to be people in
suits Giovanna Shawn you’re powerful climber fingering super beat ya better
bust an employee-owned company also go probably a bungee to go pro math-based
pun there on your cut you say so to talk to an element’s today to buy where
they’re also here as well no shell keeping everybody level i we got our own
for Japanese climbers through coffee this morning to me on any type of engine
it up there nothing with India Council of nightlife will be going like opening
active bonus old you get inside the ball I’ve been out of the property I figure
self a fully good athlete moves I’m happy of people wearing shirt it doesn’t
look like the white is super positive goods are gone here to help make this
happen we’ll see a clear image don’t touch the
bottle to me house a nice piece off doing it into men’s 3/4 the mallets
almost the symmetric player so for a few Bolton’s almost a symmetrical Boulder is
better getting all day back there all sorts of different beats are coming up
when we will look at how to build a small role in your field given I’ve done
English super hard like a third Boulder it’s not super hard but in this style
I’m going to walk up final eight it’s not other events last year took me over
a whole GE top but apps all durable they got some new rigs I kind of a coryza
I think the s9e crimes not know you might have it on him – mister 800 G’s
publicizing remember there he coined the venue do a little strong nickel reporter
go stop by I’ll show you how to do outside max irons here um no social
Testament you look great they like to those movies
the people there is it just a slow P little there is any time that’s what it
looked like yeah over the woman’s trees it quite similar to one of the boldest
restoring Tokyo in the comedy geo missive that house give it up for Vail
Resorts has to describe its slope with some fall times underneath the four
point attic it’s the only jump comparing any cell phones for people that pretty
much any pure jump only shooter and by sheer volume we’ve discussed some funky
wondering just make it easier to get one the top again is super hard so they kind
of lay back up then incubator either a volume at the time my crust and the
cross of Paris grew arms and then they hold the top of the volume get their
reason all the lines when you’re trying to rock out to the right to get the
finish hole but this hole is very good either so once I get that the next run
kind of keep Tom to the focus big typical see anybody try and cheat the
jump by they send me back to that wall and it doesn’t have like a for now no
one’s saying you know insane I think I think I might see somebody try it but I
don’t think as obvious another right baby you’ll definitely be coming down
yeah that’s what I thought so men spawn of the Falcon folder takotsubo the moves
on the mostly guys checking out right now you need them I would say it’s
probably an american-style older so plenty of holes on it there’s a you know
they the sequences it’s kind of all there they go basically to powerful
sequence of moves come to a set up to hold and the Arats they jump to a whole
catch Lirette basically and then at the top again right here it’s holes are all
there that looks super smart really really you don’t be very kind at the top
there’s a black hole there I can’t see it or hear anything over that
you need to zoom in but there is this very small ledge up there which is maybe
not even a quarter part I’d again directly yeah yeah silly there so you
know the crowds obvious W we were standing directly under the boulder and
it took us a second to see that also, yea it’s hardly, it’s nothing, it’s nothing and women’s 4 initially appears quite powerful,
is that how it climbs yeah the black box recorder yeah it’s a
compression over and where there might be might be new resolutions as a there’s
almost like a hand I mean crack underneath that first big box and you
can jump ashore but it’s very painful and then put I think most of their
central together they’ll hold it and now are even if they are just literally
wrestle my way over that series of boxes yeah we’ve tried out the ham jam earlier
when we look at the moves really tight x2 there no it’s not just another good
way I mean you know this is a problem I suppose you know here rooted reputations
go before them so the places over will be debbie cracks but you know you
haven’t needed cam anywhere in this conference and it’s the same thing for
it and it’s hopefully when zoomed in actually it’s painful it it’s much easy
just to climb it like you know just like a compression Boulder so they’re just
squeezing those squeezing so because in opposition all the way up and then
tricky man play the mantles press is pretty easy to get still get stood up on
the box at the top the jumps the finishing hold is not so easy because
when you go into the box and kind of placing adders
turn around the twist you into a good hole as a there’s a big rail on top of
that so talk about finishing Bonnie so that is a jump to the last hole
it looked like you could almost maybe reach it from your standing now the wall
just a little bit’s you see them I see people just that I think they’re if you
know if you want to if you want you want to get there you don’t hang around like
this but also much longer than you – okay well there is the boulder summarize
Percy thank you very much your time go enjoy I’ll go sit down Perce efficient chief root said to hear
it IFS see Vail 2017 just me in Cairo all on our lonesome now yep so Alex is
gonna be out first of all the number one I think this Boulder really suits your
style even though picture and more like kind
of overhang powerful rock climber but that’s honestly what this low angle
climb looks like to me it’s gonna climb really powerfully yeah it was the one
Boulder we didn’t quite have time to discuss this woman’s wanted deceptively
powerful I’ve described it us yeah there’s lots of slopers we got those
math and new me grips pinches there there’s the finish I’d start hold those
things are worse than they look I was I was just so excited to use it
the first time I ever saw them and they they’re a little scared now when I see
him up they are much worse than they look like
they’re going to be you have got a great crowd here in Vail they’re going to be
absolutely delighted to see Alex Petrie out first and then we talked about that
a lot in the semi finals but huge respect due to Alex bad knee injury and
neck injury all sorts of problems just when she was looking in great shape
about probably 18 months ago this run of injuries started yeah she has made an
incredible comeback she I think one every cop she went to this year in the
u.s. ten times u.s. national champion ten time US national champion we had
this a new series this year we had a series of national competitions too and
she won all of those and was the overall champion as well so she really crushed
it this year coming around all these injuries it’s amazing
I’m house got form here she won in 2009 she’s never missed a very World Cup last
year we actually didn’t see her in action because you injured itself during
the warmup believe it was that was two years ago right now probably because
last year she competed in the final four with their neck injury Oh
Kostya yes so but there has been two years in a row now two years in a row
yes well she’s been injured by poles but yet a previous winner here in 2009 eight
years ago he’s still doing it in the finals and how and there is women’s one
you could just see on the right hand side of your screen the three read
volumes leading up to the black and the white 2009 was my first year climbing
it’s the first year Alex one Vail so just shows how amazing is that she’s
been like still crushing it for this long and I have to say she’s qualified
from the semi finals in sixth place but in the qualifiers she looked absolutely
unbelievable yeah she was totally on for him in the qualifiers for sure and
honestly I think the first Boulder and semifinals today is really what
separated a lot of the girls because it was just so delicate if you if you just
mess up just slightly your foot would slip and you would make the jump and
that’s what happened to both her
Anja and at least one other I think so be really interesting the men’s
competition is well cater watabe he’ll be first out he’s leading the way in the
overall standings for the World Cups in 2017 tight very tight at both top of the
men’s and women’s over oil competitions in the women Shawna Cox is leading the
way only by 8 points but that will increase today yeah Agarn Bret didn’t
make the final here first senior final in a knife se event that she’s not made
so Shawna will extend her lead and that was only by attempts it was really
really close today in the semi final yeah Ross closely now you didn’t see our
70 farm it was absolutely frantic but to go back and watch it was a lot of action
but yeah me didn’t get the first ball and it ended up counter against her it
just goes to show these finals you can’t make up too much ground you’ve got to
get it done from the first minute here’s kata and Alex and that is a big cheer
for Alex butcher as you would expect she’s I spoke to her a few days ago
she’s feeling no pressure just happy to be here enjoying the experience yeah I
think she’s really excited to finally get to show her best and you know try
hard and without worrying about getting injured and I think that’s a really good
mindset just give it everything and see where it leads so first look at women’s
one you can see how powerful that first move was already these volumes get
exponentially more difficult with the heat so the flat hold volumes they they
just get more and more slippery whenever you get more and more sweaty or your
skin’s like thin which by now after how many boulders these guys have done like
those volumes feel really slippery we know well so I think Alex needs to get
her foot up here is what she’s doing wrong she needs a match feet and get
that higher foot that worked I don’t know if she got her
foot had that black cape but there’s no sign of a judge on the stage so it
appeared not already a really solid start from Alex is the first attempt yes
looking really strong top section no give me though
no this last move doesn’t look like a joke like there’s no joke to me I think
she’s really going to have to commit to going both hands and squeezing on that
last hole she set up though she’s not look troubled at all on this attempt
spin on the wall a long time already looking really strong in complete
control trout going crazy that go even crazier
she can top this perfect start for Alex peach oh good flash for her look that’s
what the crowd think of it that wasn’t the beta I was expecting to on that
finish she went left hand and just caught it like that yes she was thinking
slightly outside the box yes brilliant when you see a hold like that a big
compression volume obviously first instinct is to grab it but the left on
the left on the right with the right hand but yeah great form Alex looks like
kaya has been having some trouble getting off the start here which is kind
of what we expected on this Boulder yes really
that orange hold that he’s got his right foot songs were really poor hold gets it
this time so we’re asking Percy about whether you could go to the top directly
bit cater chose to press underneath it and then go over the top there’s nothing
for the feet there in between the start holding that big Halfmoon volume this
does look promising cater already a World Cup winner this year this last move doesn’t look easy but
there looks like he’s got it now just a case of hole in the body position gets
it checks with the judges two climbers two tops confirm the attempts for k2
when they come through we were watching Alex it’s a top don’t forget if you want
to get in touch on Twitter you can loo hashtag ifs CW see if you’ve got any
questions for Team USA climate and World Cup competitor CARICOM D all-round
climbing you tell them you do lead speed and Boulder yeah I try to my my favorite
is definitely bordering but uh I I always do the national competition here
for both lead and speed as well if you’ve got any questions for true or
around while we get them on Twitter hashtag ifs CWC let us know what you
think predictions to the podiums any observations from today
get in touch I always wonder what they’re outsiders are thinking now that
both the first competitors to come out both top of the first problem so it’s
like is that what they wanted or is that you know what they’re not what they’re
expecting so well as we mentioned just before the competition began you think
this is certainly going to be around where you need well at least three tops
to win either the men’s or the women’s conversation yeah I think so for sure
the boulders look extremely doable especially for these like these
competitors they’re just all so strong and so well-rounded but they also look
very I guess mess up a bull like they’re not there’s a lot of them are delicate
like this this first move on the men’s so this is me Gennaro sake we’re more
used to seeing his brother in World Cup Finals the very different build makes
you much bigger than tomorrow much taller just reached up through that
person move super statically really smooth so as long as he doesn’t uh like
mess up this last move we might see a flash from him yeah extraordinarily
smooth climbing so far from a tree looked as if he’s going to be on top
within 30 seconds of walk you out just took a bit longer to set himself but he
gets it done in the end flash from him a really really solid climbing right there naki’o is stuck kind of in that same
position we saw Alex in and I think the problem here is that you need to get
your foot up onto that corner foot jib just so that you can lean yourself over
and like actually be in a solid position on that hold what Alex did definitely
works though flash from Alex so regardless you’ll
stay ahead of a key Noguchi key also one here in Vail just proposing yourself
finds herself all alone on the stage on listen plenty of time left two minutes
13 remember it’s 4 minutes 4 flat these days no plus the four minutes is up your
time is up and then yeah so we’ll be seeing people
getting on a lot sooner I guess then they would they’ve any other format they
won’t rest until a minute laughter you know 20 seconds left and get on the wall
then he oh not always a big fan of jump type moves imagine to climb this quite
smoothly try and do it as as low risk as possible not won a World Cup this year
two podiums already second in Tokyo last time out third in Chongqing she’s a
really a consistent competitor though she she always manages to do really well
full-time Boulder overall no cup winner last one here in 2014 here in Vail we said it in the semi file there aren’t
many regular oversea destinations at acuña gucci hasn’t run up as I say no
wings this year a third and a second I would have will be seeing her at any of
the Li climbing Road cups I know she was at I think was crunch last year yes she
did really well yeah you made the final made the final I think I feel like she
ended up on the podium I don’t remember for sure but I’ll have to check my notes
Glen feels a long time ago this may be her last attempt depending on how long
she takes to do this if she gets up higher and falls in the last move she
most likely won’t get another attempt on it it’s creating a different challenge
for the climbers new challenge is forming it rule because do you give
everything to this attempt or do you try and rush this attempt a bit and leave
enough time for another looks like you trying to give everything on this
attempt but I don’t know if the method that she was trying is right you know it
throat only 30 seconds left I don’t know she’s gonna rush back onto the wall she
is she is sure she was away when Alex picture walked back in behind the wall
just want it gone she’ll know what’s required if she wants to keep her head
above water in this early stages this final hair in Vail
I don’t think doesn’t have time left to atop this that one unfortunately though
she did try the jumper that time that was good idea her going around real so
kid disappears back in no top for her yeah like I was saying on that Boulder I
thought that getting your foot up first was the way to do it but both her and
Alex haven’t done that so it must be really uncomfortable he’s a climber lots
of people are very pleased to see Cathy cabbage a member of Team Sylvania and
when they’ve got superstars like Janna and govern scoff each don’t always hear
as much about catcher and she absolutely crushed the semi-final today she came
out in 20th and just like smashed every Boulder I think she started crying on a
chopper number three she was so happy it was awesome to watch it was fantastic
really really good to see her in a final just amazing
and she’s a climb with no pressure on her she knows she climbed brilliantly
this morning and whatever she does here it’ll be one of the best days of her
climbing career so no pressure at all for Cathy just enjoy it
give 100% and if she can climb anything like she did in the semi-finals she’ll
have a pretty good day John one chopped me I’ll lose out on men’s one there’s a
few boulders in this final I think he’ll really get on with this first one is the
only one you think might cause him a few problems we should see maybe this in the
other slab at the far end yeah I was guessing that a the rad ciders are
really hoping to separate on attempts on that first bowl they’re just having a
kind of sketchy start like that you can kind of tell like oh they’re hoping to
get some separation they’re like they’re planning on tops but hoping for
different temper I’ll go attempt amounts can’t you just just finishing your way
up bonus on the first try there I don’t think this is the method of the problem
because I feel like the way that this would work is if you had a footer on the
corner that you can like kind of snipe and you just don’t have this black game
there so casters Benin work at farms before 6:00
in Munich in 2015 Thank You seventh in a way the hardest
place to finish just missing the final seventh in managing she did the full
Asian tour though she was just smiling after she got that next part of the hold
could be her try hard face but she looked really pleased I’ve got another
there were not many happier people in Vale this afternoon than catch a cabbage
we can assure you so jeong-hwan Sean lining it up on the men’s slab just need
to find a body position where he can release one hand there it is and once
he’s got hold of a tiny Bolton like that he’s not letting go
John John quick word to the crowd heads back in that last move a person was
saying was going to be possibly a separator but so far we haven’t seen
anybody fall on that move handle jinx anyone but we’ve seen it done subtly
differently okay when Cato is trying it he kind of had his hips pushed out to
the left we’ve just seen John run then really pushed in tight to his back his
heels his hips so slightly different body positions but as you say hasn’t yet
separated the gliders it’s tricky to and they have that other volume just locking
it you know doing the bump method is a I think a little bit more low percentage
because you could accidentally rack like crack your knuckles on that top volume
and really miss that little tiny jib on the other one
so one minute to go for CACI cabbage lots of questions coming through on
Twitter we will gets in as soon as we can we’ll just keep an eye on cat to go
up with the right hand the left will follow just let’s figure the feet out I
think that next move is just very powerful like we saw Alex do it so
easily but she’s such a power climber she just I gots to have a move that she
just smashes you know so I wasn’t surprised to see or do it but watching
these other girls on it you can see how hard that move actually is yeah you see
caster just shaking out and you only have four minutes and you’re at two now
half thousand meters you can get pumped quite quickly bouldering especially on
that type of hold interesting to see a really shake out mid Boulder and I mean
you have to remember too that these girls have been this is the third round
climbing their second one today we’re at 8500 feet you know all of us come from
at least a lot of us come from a lower sea level or closer to sea level and
it’s just brutal like I know I woke up sore this morning I didn’t feel like I
did that much rock climbing yesterday I can’t even imagine how these girls are
feeling right now the mistakable figure of Lexie rubs off
there on the right and we’re about to see world champion petra Klinger heading
out there she is Lexie all focused looking to back up a win in Tokyo
another one here Petra has ever big smile on her face during the competition
quick question from Evan Pakula on Twitter before we see their attempts how
does the attendance of World Cups vary from location well we’re certainly
seeing bigger attendances it every woke up this year I’d say the neck then every
work up last year very always Pat last shoot back began this year but in China
we certainly had a much bigger crowd Tokyo we have a much bigger crowd we
shall see as we get into Europe but I would say I was pleasantly surprised by
the crowds in China and elsewhere they’ve been the same if not even bigger
than last year was that attendance as far as like the
competitors you come though to because I know like this competition we haven’t
seen there’s obviously no French people here which is unfortunate because there
are a lot of strong climbers and then there’s a flash for Alexei it looks like
flash for Alexei rubs off so that top move not separating the climbers like
Percy expected it might like seen all business no smiles
Alexei until the job’s done yeah but I would say if that question was talking
about like the competitors you come to each of the competition’s you definitely
get a lot more competitors from Europe at the European competitions it’s just
so close and so easy to travel there it’s usually less here and fail and it’s
been one of the nice aspects of this competition here in Vail particularly
the qualifiers we saw a lot of us climbers that we don’t normally see yeah
we get a lot of invites I think we had like 20 this year but we also had a
couple of buys from our youth world champions so Patrick yeah we were anticipating
when we look at this bowler that this is one Patrick could could get on well with
yeah she always seems to me as like more of a power climbing she’s just so so I
felt and so powerful so and that visibly wasn’t like this plan like I was saying
I think really favors that but it looks like she’s having a little bit trouble
with that like second move there and that could be that those volumes are
starting to get a little slippery climbing conditions of plateaued axles
it’s not as hostage that has been in previous days over the past few days
around now about five o’clock local time is probably in the hostage time of the
day but with perfect timing we just got a bit of cloud cover here yeah it’s
probably great for the crowd to I know standing out there just waiting they’re
coming here in commentate it was quite hard I was getting some bad just looking
at where the crowd were going to be it’s good their walls in the shade that they
didn’t get job covering it up Pacho yeah still just having trouble with that
second move I don’t think she’s having quite the same like ramping method on
that first hold that the other girls are doing it’s a real sweet spot on the
left-hand side of that start hole isn’t that there is yes Tiny’s probably two
finger widths yeah it’s not very big and you need to get that right and then once
you get that first sholde I think it just like really to commit to like
keeping the tension get over to the next one that’s getting
the crowd fired up as we just saw a shot of them it is a big crowd here in Vail
MC doing his best to fire them up if you like close-up of her hand you can just
kind of see it slipping a little bit I think maybe she should I kind of bicycle
got startled I think that’s what we’ve seen the other creditors do if I’m not
mistaken and she didn’t see that she was doing that but looks like she’s done
with 43 seconds let alone surprised to see another attempt Petra it seems like
yeah without getting the bonus I definitely would have tried again but I
guess sometimes you just feel like it’s not gonna happen you know so who’s old
bro so just to confirm their let’s picture a leading the way one top and
that was a flash he’s followed by Cathy Cathy Shekinah Gucci who both got the
bonus on a flash no top OC men’s competition makes it rips off leading
the way so kakora Fugees out second overall last
year in the World Cups one in May ringing at the start of this year a
super consistent about air I mean the Japanese team just I think continues to
impress really everyone well we just had a big slip there but almost safety and
mijo I thought again this is another folder that I got guys saying it’s
powerful and I think this will be so really favor her again
yeah really smoothly done so far from mijo just realizes it used to change it
slightly and drop the left knee now lines herself up to move right he’s got three thirds this year Nihon
Anika best was also stood and she’s had three offered meal so consistently rap
are from a ninth in Chongqing as yet not winning World Cup so she did twice last
year yeah I think the biggest thing about this photo is that this move is
just not super obvious it’s not you don’t really want to like cut loose that
left hand and just grab the top of that next ball you know not super confident
how good is gonna be as we seen Mike both Alex and Katja both done it that
way so it must be debated interesting as well there you get a bit of an insight
into what the holes are really like just shifted their left foot slightly me oh
and it’s enough to peeler off the wall she was making that semi rest position
look more comfortable than it really was I think under I should probably try and
go again soon here just because what it’s only a stand up movement can be
making you too tired and with only four minutes you want to make sure you don’t
mess up so you wanna make sure not to carry to mess up but you also don’t want
to waste your time agree to like you know you want to be able to top it to
Elsa rahmani-r they’ve got two minutes ten seconds with which to do so you know
just leaving off there keeping our kokoro here is it’s got that first move
I just need so I do this delegate job I wonder if roughly the bump method or
though or the cross wincing across yeah
that was oh no that was the beginning of the method used by cater yeah and I
could get jinxer just I said that nobody fed fallen there yeah it’s just a minute
ago he just it looked as if he moved right when he’d have been better staying
where he was but you know I think it might have any got a little excited got
the got that top hold and then just lost that tension just for a second just
enough to make it barn door object another example of why this board is so
special as I look down into the crowd and do it just for two days now I’m here
not looking to feel these familiar faces my question I think me how just needs to
kind of commit to that um they didn’t make a kind of weird move of just like
jumping right hand to that a lot of the really good competitors sometimes don’t
want to do those risky moves just goes yeah so she just it so she goes to the
top of the volume Kokoro Kokoro just touched it over the black tape though I
wonder if they’re gonna call her off I definitely saw it I’m just looking at
the mat yeah I think there’s a judge just heading on yeah her toe just
touched over there that’s that’s too bad and then there’s a top for kogoro I cook
just about hangs on a different method there again though you use that blocker
volume as I guess stopping it whereas below as momentum it went all the way to
the right and came back left and still don’t look quite comfortable eventually
got that someo at a very promising previous attempt recalled down because
her foot touched the far side of that black tape remember that black tape
denotes the limit of where you can and can’t touch where she only has 16
seconds left so really has to commit I guess that move must be a lot harder
than we then we saw with Alex yeah make very impressive from Alex having seen
four super strong female clown as a tub that move makes her flash even more
impressive restorative caste cabbage in the semi-final she walks out nailed the
first Boulder nailed the second one and it’s only at the end of the round that
you realize have just so impressive it was yeah I was not gonna lie a little
word that they made the bullish mill too easy you know you see someone come out
and xx and it’s like a low she did all four I mean you could have been an
amazing day which it was or it could have been that the voltage or too easy
but then we want to tell more people go it was it was obvious that she had just
climbed really really spectacularly another woman he did the same as Shawna
Cox each qualified in first in the semi-final did enough to get through
more than comfortably in the qualifying Ram it didn’t quite look as strong as
some of the athletes but very much made up for it in the semi-final yeah she she
really crushed all the boulders in the time and all the first Boulder it was
kind of a big factor between like her and like Alex especially because just
the weird beginning of that lunges I made it Sean
as you would expect smoothly figuring out these moves
looks like Yoshi is gonna get a oh I guess I urge you to stop talking about
it Thank You jinxing these guys I’ll just
mute your mic at the appropriate moment he was looking super strong they look
like that he’ll just takes from who’s kind of small in the corner of the
screen so I couldn’t quite tell but sean-o gets the move to the top of the
volume quickly figured that out which is good because even if she messes up this
next move she’ll should do that move quicker on her next go but I can’t see
your quick messing it up more than enough time if you needed another
attempt at this stage doesn’t look like surreal but she’s only the second
climber we’ve seen at this stage of the boulder you don’t even do that move I
wonder what way she’ll attempt this last this last move is she’ll go kind of two
hands like I kind of pictured that it would be or how Alex did it Alex looked
really comfortable on that left hand there I think she even chopped up so it
could be that that hold is a little better than it seems
pushing is positive it’s just small it’s wise even smile and it’s it’s you know
it’s a big crossover so Shana lining it up Alex actually matched that undercling
and that’s how she got left hand there so doesn’t look like Shauna’s gonna do
that but so like I said that being so much more slippery than it looks
there’s a heartbreaker for Shana so that she knows it that’s gonna leave Alex in
first after the first boulders with a flash and so I hope we’ll see a time
here from Shana that was close from Shauna once a year the first hand went
over I don’t want to say it’s in your bag but it it looked real urge more
close yeah I’ve done like it was like a v7 in the gym that had that whole same
type of move you had to cross and do it and it was just you had to squeeze so
much harder than he thought you had to and you know after doing all those moves
getting up to theirs it’s it’s probably hard to realize quite how much you have
to have a squeezy Yoshiyuki again handle on the top hold
no top having a little bit of trouble mmm it did all four ball was in the
semi-final this morning the only man only man to do so yeah got some more
questions coming through on Twitter Philip Bates wants to know is it easier
for boulders or league lines to train in speed or for speed climbers to train in
bouldering on the I think personally that boulders just being so powerful
have an easier time switching to speak Lyman you know Li climbers timer like
really precise and slow and methodical whereas boulders are like willing to do
those dynamic moves and take risks and that’s a lot more like speed climbing
it’s like a lot more relatable whereas a li commerce that you just don’t have
that thought process a lot of times i empresas don’t have that method so i
think i think folders have an easier time with that I think often types to
speed climbers are better builders and the
yeah we’ve seen we’ll keep an eye on Shauna coxy and Yoshi you can you seen a
few speed climbers that trying the bouldering and the chicken over in Asia
I think she just had that was like one finger then you see that Shauna just
checking the time and she needs to ten seconds to go Yoshiyuki tops all the men
top all the one Shauna reaches across she got five four no and she does not
get it yeah just a little slippery like I said yeah it’s just it’s it’s hard
it’s those things are hard and also as we were saying that start old add a good
side and a bad side the side that was facing her the right side there that’s
the bad side so it she didn’t quite have the positive spot because it just wasn’t
one on that side it’s on the left it’s not a quick look at Yoshiyuki topping
out there we go so that was everyman finish that that
Boulder right yep I think that’s that’s kind of what we thought was gonna have
good words gonna happen but we also thought there was gonna be a lot more
tops of that first folder for the women though
yeah Alex Puccio the only top and it was a flash can’t get much better start than
that just to confirm all the men topped that first Boulder it was flashed by
Lexie groups often making narrow sake three attempts for jeong-hwan child and
caterer Toby four attempts for Cora Fuji and a 5-4 Yoshiyuki of gutter Petra was
the only girl to not get the bonus and I think everyone else flashed on the
bonus it was just on-screen but I missed it yes every other female athlete flashed
the bonus so Alex back out so Percy was saying that this is gonna be one of
those ketchup tow hook moves but you know when I was looking at it that’s not
what I read at all so I’m you know these girls have like way more experience than
me a lot of these competitions so I wonder if that’s what they read or
if they read it similar to me yeah we’ll see it’s an awkward start as you can as
evidenced by the fact alec is just trying to figure out where to put her
feet you can see the street there’s three bits of tape on the top volume so
that means you need to have three of your limbs start on that and one piece
of tape on the lower one which means you need one limb on that how you choose to
do it within that is up to you so she did that kind of statically she was able
to grab the bottom of that volume I wonder if that’ll be a good method or
not her if you want to if you want to go dynamically so you can really get into
that towhead quick we’re gonna go a little there she goes
Alec strong just to give you some idea this section
of the wall that her torso is pushed against now is slightly off vertical
it’s a slab only just section she’s coming from you can just see the change
in angle of the wall it’s level with the with bottom of that huge triangular
volume on the right right-hand volume that’s what the angle changes you just
about make out a changing shade strong analysis part I was thinking there that
you need to somehow switch meet but it looked like that chuckles that was
really keeping her on so I don’t quite know what they want you to do there okay
to the table II first look it meant to very powerful boulders Percy fished in
the chief routes Esther here said to us just why we the assets are observing
maybe not Megan yeah just a slight but maybe not a lot of subtlety in this
boulder no it’s a power boulder that crimps on an overhang thank you know a
lot of guys like to see that in these comps you know so it’s a cooler that’s
what they have there are a couple of them are blocked like Amber’s whole
day’s going to do it’s kind of one of those like is I killed her like they cut
a slot crimp so it’s a little precise and then it looked like he both his foot
slipped and he kind of slipped just going I kind of missed I guess going
that small career but for the next one no way to get with you I like six
yourself again oh just struggling to stay on
there’s a third tribal you okay – yeah it’s not really much subtlety like you
said and that I think it’s either just precise and tension you really need to
need to seems like a thing like a lot of the guys are good at few questions
coming through on Twitter Katy Edwards she wants to know does your training
regime change in the run-up to a competition yeah it does actually
so mostly your if I’m not I’m not specifically training for a competition
I focus more on doing a lot of climbs that are just hard for me whereas
leading up to competitions I really focus on like power endurance and like
finger strength things like that things that you power and Aries specifically
though things that you don’t really need for just like sessioning outside whereas
like just climbing hard Boulder she’s what you need to do and so at leading up
to competition I do a lot of four by fours I do a lot of tell us what do you
mean by four yeah four reports are you know you do four different climbs that
are all not quite at your limit so I oftentimes do them on like v8 and then
you do like four v8s in a row and then rest five minutes and then do four beats
in a row again and it’s really really really good training for a cop
because that’s kind of what you’re doing you’re doing if you’re trying something
multiple times like Alex is here you know you look at the hard climbing and
you try it like four times in my five minutes and you get five minutes rest
and then you go again so it’s really like exact training for
that on a new Boulder all right it’s just not something you need a lot of the
fear training for outdoors you need some so that you don’t get like
pump off the top of boulders but you don’t need that like minute-to-minute
yeah you can you can sit on your mast and look at the view for as long as you
want we hang out in the competition yeah
people about 30 minutes in between voting speedo good question Katie thank
you hashtag ifs CW see if you got any questions for Kara comedy team USA
plumber so I bet they did not give bonus to Alex there she kind of touched it but
I don’t think they gave her control would be my guess boys Sevenoaks you
think of the moment she did okay well that’s let’s get for her and I know a
lot of people will get it the title does look hard she got it on her second
attempt so if you’re new to watching bouldering we’ve got a four tiered
scoring system for separating the climbers the most important measurement
is how many tops did you get how many of the boulders did you get to the top of
if the climbers are tied after that it comes down to how many attempts those
top stock is still tied it comes down to how many bonus holds you got you can see
down the top right of the screen each boulder has a clearly marked bonus
hold and if after tops attempt and bonus holds bombs are still tied comes down to
attempt on bonuses it’s a four tiered scoring system good beta from Ikea there
it’s kind of what we saw Alex trying to do at the very end there but I’m I know
for certain that those pressed moves still scare Alex a little bit after her
neck surgery and then this last move is supposed to still be tricky here it’s
really easy to just barn-door off it’s one of those moves that from the mats
doesn’t look that tricky it doesn’t iris by the standards of
World Cup competition for sure but like it’s just a kind of a one-handed hold
and I think you’re gonna have to go for it and kind of just shuffle your feet
over to that other volume because otherwise there’s no reason for that
volume to be there I’m most vulnerable is it this volume is just leaning out
enough that your feet could just go without warning you really need to focus
on body position but you can see Accio doing just inching away over instead of
going for it football just that little bit of hesitation that can kill you give
your feet just enough time to slip a bit and then that will be a first try bonus
I think for her and then I believe we saw make she
trying to campus the second okay move of that thing and it looked hard so maybe
he’s trying something else now yeah different shape altogether from
cater Macy’s much taller slimmer I was a key occo she went past the hold and then
had to come back to it she went probably went to three centimeters past it and
tried to drag her left hand back it’ll be impressive if she managed to do this
move like twice do I think it could be something that you just kind of learn
and you can just do that for us every time but it also seems a little bit they
looked a lot easier that time actually sometimes those things you know you do
it once it’s like how did I do that okay I find myself doing that a lot at
least so yeah that’s a great job here sitting
Adam this is when you glad before plus rule here isn’t here anymore exactly she
could sit there forever if she wanted I didn’t got to be actually pretty
intimidating it’s like and it probably not that tired from beginning of that
Boulder and you’re just scaring down that finish old you know explores
lovicott fall effect baby I would want to sit there for that long at least so
one minute to go Theo makes it work good job from her yeah pretty happy with
that result first woman to top Boulder Boulder to excuse me you know it might
be really good now for Alex saying she didn’t top this one that she did talk
the last one so yeah of course Alex pooja did have a slight buffer in terms
of where she finishes today because she did top that first Boulder when no one
else did you know I wonder you know the Japanese are so so good at the style of
climbing that has been like really prominent in the World Cups you know
like these crazy jumps these coordination moves all these like big
holes that I wonder if you know if they’ve been I have no idea but he just
seemed to struggle on this like kind of straightforward crimp climb and so I
wonder if they’ve I kind of been lacking I’m training that or if it’s just you
know much harder than it looks you know that seems like the type of
thing that a lot of the guys just like kind of crush down on but to be possible
his catch of carriage smiling all the way to the boulder John one shot me
while he’s out on mens to just about everybody that was around when we look
at the boulder said i john want to do that one can hear you will find out now
this one really seems like it suits his strikes he’s got such strong fingers i
know i last year i think he just like when i’ve been crushed j that i think he
might have flashed it up in a puff of Rocky Mountain National Park as a v14
Krim climb I remember that I don’t know I don’t think English should actually
but my toes did it quickly nonetheless I think if you can do it
it’s a pretty impressive effort let’s have a look looking super solid and that
first move yeah there’s definitely suits his strength really want to see some of
the guys get up to that top part of this climb thank you the first one out I grab those
either of those odds sir and you can see on his face not exerting a huge amount
of effort by his standards just beginning to fight now looking really
strong at this Boulder I’m crushing it so far yeah that’s the one of the moves
I thought was going to be possibly the hardest on that climb and he just made
it look easy so are we about to see top number one on men’s Boulder – it’s a
great view of that finish hole – it’s not it’s a slow P or jug so yeah you
have to be really careful going to it and honestly even this match looks hard
so come on this is not in the bag – yeah he needs both hands and control on that
top hole fighting oh man amazing how easy made the early section
look go oh yeah I think he’s got another good attempt on that one he didn’t waste
too much energy it seems the yeah like I guess Percy was saying that finish shot
is no joke but it might be more beneficial I kind of commit more fully
to just getting it you know he he went more static and that kind of almost
messed him up there he was enabling in that match quick question from Twitter
Quinn Thomson wants to know is there a chance of a bouldering World Cup in
Canada in the future I hope so was my answer I really hope so – I was never
able to attend the Toronto one even though I wanted to because it’s the
closest one other than mail for me and then the year that I was planning on
going they they cancelled it so this is a replugged run one child mother oh this
isn’t to him on the wall right now currently standing on the mat yeah I
don’t know if we have a road capture job in Canada believe you’ve got the youth
World Championships there I’d be very happy with the trip to Canada so
I hope so CNC toothbrush got a bit of a man crush on Canada being love it be
Minnesota now I also quite like Canada where do pervasively Canadian from where
I’m friends I’m glad you said that because I wouldn’t have dared hope I
didn’t offend anybody but you know the general public loves Canada sir everyone
looks I’m not coming yeah I hope so good thanks to the
questions people keep an eye topping your screens and results going through
now Alex pictures still leading the way she
didn’t top boulderr2 jeong-hwan Sean’s back run I guess yeah Alex is in first
with the flash the one top and one Sean still looking really good on this on
this Boulder you really get a perspective of how steep this is right
right this so that’s we mentioned it with Percy
there’s no black tape on that sex in the wall we just dabs his toe the back tape
resumes their level with his right knee Sean’s got to be super tired at this
point but I think we’re going to see a little bit more explosiveness out of him
on this try just to get both hands there it seemed winding up oh maybe not
hopefully he gets out of hand it’s his jewel texture hole he’s going for
there’s only a very small part of it yeah that was absolutely now I was
intended that I was awesome he just kind of got that wrap on there and then snuck
in here like it was able to just sneak that like the last bottom touch what do
you think was he pleased – that one looked a little excited he’s such a
great guy love watching him climb he’s always so excited oh yeah he’s a great
guy John one Tom ran into him in the supermarket this week you’re ever in in
the right town for a bouldering World Cup it’s amazing here you can see in the
supermarket you go to Bordeaux you run into everybody at Hannah Matt I can’t
tell you how many people I’ve seen in Vic I actually should have had a good
look what was in the basket he was carrying this is whatever whatever heat
she seems to work point I’d like to know I love watching Petra climb – she just
always look so excited and happy Aleksey ropes up as well so I don’t
think cha-cha got bonus on that last one just waiting for our results to come
bedroom no she did not rush it he laughs it seemed like she had a lot of trouble
getting off at beginning start like that beginning straight sequence yes against
addiction thank you gotta kind of likes to she really do took the words right
out my mouth the other note about the Daleks
he’s sir quite open about the fact that he’s not always into the part for modern
style ballroom he just likes to basically pull the holes of the wall
pretty good after yeah he is quite good it looked like he just when I slipped
off that time didn’t quite expect the hole to be what it was or sunlight with
you take the overall leader petrol begin to make her way right we’ve
already seen this bowl to top by a key Noguchi as yet only a Kia Noguchi no joy
vachetta cabbage gift Oh Alec Cuchillo another attempt gone from Alexey both
climbers on the maps got another question and Twitter racing mammal
how many quite your competitions are in One Bowl during season let me do the
math so we had may ring in charge in Nanjing okay fail Mumbai Munich seven we
had seven last year seven ago this year I think it used to be even couple more
if there was Toronto but I guess we should not be Mumbai and one year there
was the one in Azerbaijan yeah and we already started marrying him last year
fail this is the eleventh running avail so some of them in there longer than
others every once awhile a rumor gets started that it’s not going to happen
and I’m always so sad about it and it’s all it always comes back so one of my
favorite events of the year so like soon
doing what we know he can do best powering his way up men son knows a
little bit too much power there at the end it almost look like yeah I was about
to say that it looked as if he was just just trying to push push that left hand
volume clean off the wall and it looks like that just needed a more measured
approach he went for the high foot – did you see that here he was like pressing
super hard with the right hand and then tried to get the foot up onto that
volume that you go to right over the lip which seems like a good method actually
but just barely missed it and that made him come off I mean we were chatting
during the semi-finals about mental game of climbing about forgetting what just
happened it looks like a Lexie struggling to refocus understandably but
he needs to clear his head he’s got one minute five seconds to write the wrong
of that previous attempt four minutes goes by really quickly okay toast is
made there is bonus for Petra at least 45 seconds to go something to look at
Alexis again brushing that right hand you could seal home and just barely miss
that foot yeah looked as if he kind of had momentum that he wanted to maintain
because that’s live pictures by the way we can see a lake to that still him now
it’s more than a minute later and he knows there’s no time for another tip
now so that’s what we were just doing that kind of distressed feeling oh dang
it missed my chance there is me ho nanaka for a Fuji ready to come out
quick question from there Michael gon tell does training change for a high
altitude environment like Vail well so I actually went to Colorado for like three
weeks before this because my aunt lives right outside of Boulder and so I tried
to get up here and you know I had no school right now so I came up you know
Boulder though is still four thousand less feet I think
renouncing less feet than Vale so that was one of the things I did I also tried
to incorporate a little bit of running you know like that a time because I just
don’t like running I wish I did just you know really get used to being out of
breath and I just had to train like exhausted a lot because that’s just what
like how you feel while you’re climbing here is exhausting it’s just so much
hard and it’s hard to explain even but um I know I don’t
Sean was doing high altitude training I saw a video of him a picture of him with
one of the like the altitude masks on and running on a treadmill so you know
he might be like quite prepared for this event and they else do they might not
even be affecting him who knows interesting answer although the
highlight was definitely I haven’t I’ve done a bit of running but not much
because I don’t like running I really wish I did my mom’s done Iron Man’s I no
excuse I have no excuse I was exhausted after watching her do it so we like
walked eight miles that day mijo getting right up on that volume there there now
making quick work actually she still has another three minutes so no plenty of
time it’s oka Korra Fuji so many strong male climbers in this final we keep
saying Idol sukjong run in pursuit of Lexie it’ll sit Kokoro I think it will
suit kokoro we shall see me how much like coca Patrick una GU – just trying
to figure out how to get that body weight left without risking too much and
that is how you do it such a neat switch to the fetus you got it I might have
been a flash I don’t know if I saw her fall on that at all and then we got
kokoro making getting really high up on mens number to see if he can get this
finish move again like a lot of flexibility yeah
like a Lexi with the big foot up the Japanese are extremely impressive with a
flexibility actually I’ve seen them stretching in ISO and it’s a nice like
how on earth are you even in that position you know that be like in the
splits with their whole like it’s like it’s like watching Jimenez stretch what
really comes in handy though disconfirm that was a flash for me here on an echo
that moves her into first place one top in one attempt actually don’t need me to
read it there it is on the top of your screens it just moves ahead of Alex boot
show we talked about the four tiered scoring system earlier and that’s it in
action first place mijo second place Alex peach and there comes an attempt to
bonus and that’s why we have seemingly quite complicated scoring system good
question on Twitter great question actually from alexandra bishop where we
see shana coxy bouldering in her t-rex costume today she had a video on her social media for
the t-rex costume if that sounded like the most random question in the world
it’s not quite as random as it seemed i if somebody can speak to an isolation if
she came out for the last Boulder knowing she really won I think she
should wear the t-rex costume I could see some officials getting a little mad
about that thick but it would be quite entertaining
good question Alexandra but unfortunately I think it’s unlikely
I’m with you how can she do suck I wonder how hard it is to climb in one of
those seasons kind of restricted viewing doesn’t view sight doesn’t seem that
great I’m sure it’s not ideal this was the method we thought it was going to be
we thought but first when we were looking at this so it’s clearly what
Shauna read as well just see not the most dignified moment getting on to that
volley but now she says she looked well-established we saw a key Noguchi
almost sitting here Wow we say Yoshiyuki just tried to go Rose move that that
Boulder he went left hand to the first hold and a right hand under which is
really not the beta I think but it seems actually like not a terrible mistake
it’s the folder but could easily read like that it’s a good idea so shorter coxy last climber out on to
ruins to flush the bonus on Boulder one when we say flash he means got it first
time climber speech the got the first time then she top women’s to she can
good topic so that’s it’s three tops on this border we’ve got a Keo a Kia Miho
and Shana exactly and then only Alex Puccio on the first Boulder so there are
four in the running for the top at the moment yeah catch the cabbage in Petra
cling were the only two ladies so far without a top I’m going to go this have
a look at Sean it goes to the left hand and a bit like me out not quite the same
foot SWAT method of me hope same theory get that right foot directly underneath
you that leaves Yoshiyuki out on his own on
the stage more questions coming through on Twitter
ginger George I’ll see your favorite moves to watch or do yourself oh man
you know I feel like girls don’t get to campus enough uh-huh so I always am
really excited when I see a campus move I you know I do a lot of campus in my
training and so it’s always kind of fun to show that off I guess you know um so
that’s one of my favorite moves it’s always also just looks impressive
to people you know okay so I think they’re one of my favorite moves to
watch as well and you know not necessarily doing them myself but
watching them coordination Dinos I you know I always understand why they set
them because they are quite cool when someone gets them especially after
watching you know so many people struggle on it then somebody just like
does it so easily typically from the Japanese TV you know so those oh this is
probably my favorites a big fan of the lay back myself I love it up a big
corner just feels so epic oh that’s true perhaps it’s a slightly lower grade than
you so yeah so you keep trying to figure out how to get that right hand across
manages it now he has 40 seconds left so this will likely be his last attempt on
this fall day oh man we should say 30 seconds go to choking uh you might
actually try for another one I’ll have to climb quickly if he does you know
actually to to be fair I really like watching people do moves that I know to
be really hard you know I just have such an appreciation for like you know just
like pure strength aspect of rock-climbing
so like watching somebody just do like you know this is this climb is really
cool to watch like you know John just crushed it you know and you can see how
hard it is because all these best climbers in the world are obviously
struggling you know so questions welcome Francesca how long
before a comp to athletes usually fuel up fuel up is in as in eat okay so um
right before going into I so at least I always have trouble I’m like it’s not
necessary that I’m actively nervous but it’s like eating gets kind of hard just
from being like nervous like acid I don’t think I’m nervous but I must be
just like physically so uh that’s probably one of my it’s hard to so I try
and eat like a little bit more before I so like I tried a couple hours before
like before going in and then usually then I end up being hungry and I says I
eat a bar well I’m actually warming up so when you go into I so roughly how
long is that before you start climbing just to give people an idea like you
before you start climbing at night so it you usually spend an hour sitting and
then you spend about an hour and a half warming up and so that I usually you
know an hour before I go into I so it ends up being about three and a half
hours before I climb and then I eat a bar while I’m sitting in ISO because
then I realize I’m hungry there you go hope that into the question
Francesca another quick question from Amy other climbs always open to try
after the comp well often we find in Asia they are apparently in Vail they’re
going to be taken down very quickly today yeah this wall is used for a
citizens come on on Sunday morning so they take
everything off and set a ton of climbs like 30 or 40 climbs all on a and I call
tonight so nobody gets trying after this shame in China we always have a go at
all the boulders when I say have a go I mean trying get off the floor empty it
makes it sound as if I’m kind of counting my attempts of a bonus hole so
it’s more more kind of can you leave the floor
yeah I’ve never gotten to try any of them and in finals climb sir well I
never have my rock boots with me I mean if I had my rock beats of you tearing it
down for Americans that’s probably climbing shoes climbing sheet rock boots
I like that though and we’re about to have a substitution in the commentary
box Kara Condor thank you very much for your company second year running yeah
super fun can we see you next year absolutely well I’ll be climbing but
what am I thinking it’s a good consolation prize I love it thank you
very much attention must be building now as we pass the headset who will wait number three okay I’m our mystery guest has arrived
who are you where do you come from are you doing charlie I’m Ahmed Toure came
from Austin Texas just to be here at the Vail Mountain games GoPro Mountain games
let’s do it and what does Ahmed we’re talking a bit more about your climbing
background for a second but we have another chance to have a look at women’s
three and this jump oh it’s amazing what we will wear on the maps look at it
earlier what we felt on it well I mean it starts off pretty like technical just
trying to get your feet up there and it starts off with just a huge explosion –
a pretty nice volume with like a nice little bump catch or well two nights of
aplomb catches but it’s really going to come down to who can pop off of that toe
a little bit more and go directly to those holes we’re all men’s three tricky
slab indeed second one we’ve seen although the first one was more of a
slab into a boulder slab into a slight overhang this is at the right a slight
overhang into a slab it’s still technical stuff yeah
really technical um it looks like those volumes up in the the middle section has
a little crack in it so I know as far as like my guests on beta
they’d have to like get into the crack and use their thumb like on the volume
yeah other volumes attached to it and just pull from there but honestly the
last move like from the bonus to the end that looks like the hard bit for me case is just setting himself so that the
bonus hole is the second to last holes quite unusual which would make you think
that the final move is super tough if you’re wondering what that big cheer was
there you go it was because of this there it goes – don’t relish boots your amazing effort
because you didn’t actually look to be that close to that movement yeah exactly
exactly but honestly if anyone’s gonna figure out a dynamic move like that it’s
gonna be ours no testicles I say give a lady a high five yeah I can see that yes
you didn’t look as if she was having that much joy with it initially uh maybe
a little frustrating just a you know falling Claire mu a couple times but
hopefully we can see a replay when she did lapsim very great here we go here we
go perfect timing see that yeah that pop off the tail
directly to the hole it’s amazing when you watch these dynamic moves isn’t it
when the when the climber finally does it you wonder how they didn’t do it
before yeah when they get it right it just looked so right yeah it looks so
easy almost yeah and it was like that with Alex the first few times it looked
a really long way huge jump gets it right made it comfortable with it it’s
very hard to commit to those kind of moves you know like even though the pads
under you and everything we we definitely know from years before the
injury happens doesn’t have to happen even happen out here you just happen to
warm up Keon leavers herself on relatively tall
climber hole will look slightly closer for her and she had she said she looked
like she hit the sweet spot almost as if she didn’t quite believe I think she was
just checking it out I think she was just seeing how it felt so that when she
actually does go for it like she’ll be a little bit more committed HT narrow sake
you could see him using his height too great you say went straight through to
the bonus just peels off while we have just have a brief pause and people look
yeah and the very unlikely event didn’t watch you comment AC on the speed
climbing Paris or or in our code just tell us a little bit about where you fit
into the climbing world what you do in replied world so I’m a typically a speed
climber so that’s why I was commentating at that time that was a very crazy comp
if I remember yeah but yeah no I climb out of Austin Texas and I have a little
team out there so yeah coach and compete been doing a little bit more of the
coaching than competing lately so that’s a elderman I’m getting older man yeah
I’m getting older I can feel it every day and how much with what sort of age
of the climbers you’re coaching on your team the ages our team they range from
like 17 18 all the way down to seven so you know we got a pretty wide spread
going on there but it’s all about you know like just whenever you start just
got to go for it and that’s pretty much what we tell all the kids and everything
so that is amazing yeah Kiran once again once you got that move you wonder how
she didn’t do it the first time exactly pretty comfortable top for Akio previous
winner here in Vail as I mentioned earlier some overlook he’s talked to us
about what you mean about just getting the most out of those terms so light as
you like we’re pretty much spring loaded from that position so as long as you can
explode and point right at the end of your toe like Boop
I guess we missed it but as long as you can point right off the toe and use like
every little bit of that toe when you explode you’re just going to make it
further at that point you know it just becomes precision confirmed we also
added top from HT narrow sake let’s have another where she is a key Oh spitting
every millimeter out of the rubber on her shoes really using those thumbs as
well yeah we just had another top from making our sake got that on his third go
Boulder 3 John 1 Chong closest to the camera there MEMS 3 captain cabbage and
just shake your arms shaking out in preparation on women’s through Qadam on
men’s 2 and that was just amazing yeah is it his excitement it’s infectious
for sure yeah he was pretty pumped about that one all right it’s just creeping honest let’s see how
she makes it so tricky to get in a position where you feel like you can
jump from there you see again catches at all a climber so on that I don’t know it
seemed like she didn’t pull actually enough with her arms on that one to put
a leverage her body to like shoot on over to the right to think about these
climbers as though they’ll figure it out so we could see John munch on the
bonuses so second-to-last hole I actually think the last move is going to
be fairly tricky at RC if you look over there he’s using the bolt holes on the
volume themselves – uh-oh for the – yep for the feet to get that
move worked pretty well yep it’s not – haha he said a guy that shows his emotions
but not normally quite this Mochis he’s pumped today he’s really bummed today
yeah I think he can feel that he’s doing well that leaves catcher on the stage
2:15 just had a note hassles at the women
scores and not updating apologies for that
she was the internet or the tablets being used gajju is taking her time here she really
wants this attempt to account three all-round climber coochie cabbage
she was 11 think laniel last year in the lead so amazing she was amazing the
semi-final it’s an amazing leap once again when she stepped it she
seemed really controlled when she did that not much swing on the feet at all
yeah once she stuck it just not totally solid
we haven’t looking great yeah I haven’t seen a fall from this stage yeah it
looks like we’re getting taps on tops on tops well car economy was saying earlier
on that she expected this to be a finer with lots of tops you were of the same
opinion when you had to look at the boulders I do I do
I honestly I don’t know we’ll see how Shawna does with it I know just watching
her the rest of the car you know the earlier bits of the comp doesn’t seem to
be really going for the like really dynamic moves away but I don’t know I
think maybe she’ll surprise this here that she just kind of knows that’s what
it requires right it’s one of those moves when you’re underneath it is no
doubt in what you need to do exactly you won’t be standing there wondering how
it’s a solvent read it’s just you know do I have the dynamic ability to pop up
and stick that move is Alexi rubs off we talked before about his psychology
absolutely furious with himself for blowing it on men’s – yeah as he
recovered psychologically it’s rough falling on the last move like that he
just rushed it with me just a little bit just Chuck that right for something just
lost his his body position exactly it needs to refocus he’s still in this
Petra first attempt so good captain chief Scott please I don’t think she was
expecting to get that close that song I think she she thought the little thumb
catches and pretty please to the other half right I
was about to ask you’re actually with the I don’t want to say kids that you
coach the teenagers and some kids that you coach
do you use footage from the IFC to show them how to maintain concentration oh
you to read roots oh yeah how to really is just their
level of focus and how many attempts they’re gonna use on one go yeah cuz
it’s a at this level it’s all about you know choosing your battles wisely so you
know you come out there first problem and it’s just giving you such a hard
time like you cannot allow that to ruin the rest of your class because who knows
maybe every single person is going to like struggle maybe everybody’s going to
get it but as long as you’re focused on that one problem even when it’s over
like there’s no way you can give your full focus to the other product
likes it seems to have got his head back in the game that’s right
climbing nice and precisely very hard to do when you’ve got as much adrenaline
pumping as he did up yeah just that left foot now you can see the frustration
exactly so he can hopefully you can calm it down and see where he needs to place
to sleep because that’s going to be a big deal on this problem Petra lining it
up again women’s three all right let’s see oh
goodness oh that looked a promising method
getting that left foot higher up the volume got a much closer to the hold she
what I see it like whenever like the other girls when they were doing the
problem they seemed to like rock and keep their hips close to the wall but
because of that it’s a little harder like ireally precisely aim but like with
what he was doing it’s amazing because she’s turned around can see the book
like the volume see the jibs and get a little closer and keep her eyes on it
the entire time so a little less effort on the pop but I think she can be more
precise and she keeps that data so Alexi rubs off very much back in the game I think Petra’s going to get it this time
and like see with the top there men’s 3 Oh close we will bring you updated
scores in just a second apparently the scores are up data again now so final
flying by we’re already getting towards math stage Aman Petra Petra no top so
far one bonus come on Petra how she would love this one
oh not quite getting the thumb catch unfortunately still smiling yet big old
grin oh it yes this is what it’s all about right here I
don’t love seeing this crowd will love it
come on come on how’s it look at the crowd before she goes as well let’s get
it Petra oh no joy for better unfortunately has speckling crowd
appreciated that always do they want to see everyone give their full effort Kristin Gore is gonna be team Japan he
so Meehan Anaka ready to come out kokoro fuji heading out to bring you up-to-date
with the scores now that were updated jeong-hwan Charlie’s got three tops if
you’re tops the next ball it attempts are irrelevant he’ll win today’s World
Cup keep an eye on the sub your screen you’ll see for yourselves below him
making our sake and a legacy rubs off in second and third respectively best man
Kokoro Fuji has also got two tops he can make it three depending on attempts he
could take a lead here a flash will put him in the lead it looks like a car up down the crack as
I say if he flushes this up three tops and six attempts alright seems I have
that footwork buddy down Oh slow too soon so he won’t be in the lead after
this it can be in a very very comfortable second place in the women’s
competition meanwhile two tops for a key Noguchi two
tops relic kikuchiyo but with more attempts Shawna coxy one top and Meehan
an actor one top mijo across or on women’s three Shawna still to come it is
getting tight at the top you’re lining up another gun women’s
three it’s funny with moves like this you do
kind of go back and reevaluate but it’s really I think to get yourself like
motivated again to just really go for the move because like you said like some
problems you see there’s nothing else you know exactly what to do and what you
have to do to get it interested in there that was I think the first fall we’ve
seen from someone who’s who’s latched the job yeah ahead and heavy fall for me
host she’s just shaking out twisting their head making sure our necks okay
looks to be fine she’ll have another go as well Kokoro Kokoro seems to have a
little trouble there with the heel hook sticking that it was a heavy impact for me how yeah
remember if you’ve got any questions for an Atari coach climber all-around
climbing superhero that’s a guy for CWC oh let’s now go too far now there it is all right yeah at this time
here we go just lining up for that top hold nice and controlled the right hand
goes sets the feet and the left hand joins it and there’s that up she seems have been relieved to have
that one so me home makes away in worked hard for
that top walked past kakora no words of encouragement the phone has
got a minute left II just under a minute up to to figure this one out you put him
in a very very strong position oh dear no no
if you can’t obviously bill will join John run John on three tops come on bro
let’s see if you can refocus and get this done just bring you up to date that
top for me hone in Accra folks are in first place
she’s actually tied on all four levels of the scoring system of Hakeem Iguchi
which is ahead on count back to the previous round oh there he goes
so borrow this to put him into second place
Oh slip from the left foot it really does look like the ball hole is gonna be
debated on that he heads back in with two seconds to go so where does that
leave as it leaves us with a key and Iguchi that scores Knox up to date just
yet now it is me on a Mac a leading the way so as I say she’s tied with a kinder
Gucci on all scores but count back to the previous round when she is currently
ahead Alec Cappuccio is in third Shotokan see who’s just come out in
fourth catch of cabbage fifth metric winglet down and sick and then John one
Shawn he’s got three tops mate genera sake
Alexei whoops on anchor Cora Fuji all with two Kate of Atari and Yoshiyuki or
get around that one top each I’m excited to see how Shawna does on this one we’ll get interesting the foreground is
wrong got Yoshiyuki Wow three not using that crack oh there we go really smooth promising-looking first
attempt from Yoshiyuki she says himself at the top keep an eye
bottom right you scream and there Shawna Shawna Nelson John nails here from the
crowd Wow shook you down you’ve been paying
attention to shoulder yeah I’m paying attention officer Yuki’s just her first
attempt this was her first attempt and she is nailing it that is fantastic this
will put her into first place there we go come on getting that foot fantastic I
expect nothing less it’s two tops from Shawna in two
attempts to top spoke from flashes to minute 40 left on the clock she’s
already heading back let’s have a look at the jump can’t believe she stuck his
first time again move you think you need to figure out there you go you can see
that off the toe as well she is exploding properly just hit the sweet
spot Yoshii seems to have some interesting
beta going on over here like going to these two volumes instead of a directly
to the crack there we go Yoshiyuki views forth here last year
unveils seems to get on well in the high altitude area how nicely atop would go
down come on come on lining it up tip up just once again that
left foot slipping and you never quite figured a way to get it back on that’s
right and it might be it might be that he
thinks the bullet hole is a little too low to really pop up to that finishing
hole at that point I believe maybe he could use the crack itself as a tow
really jam it in there and maybe get to the move a little more statically just
while we watch Yoshiyuki getting ready for his next attempt the woman’s scores
as follows Shawna coxy she’s leading away two tops in three attempts Miho
nanaka followed her to tops of five attempts with the same score exactly as
a key Noguchi who was in third place behind a kamijo only due to count back
and also with two tops between seven and ten – Alex Puccio currently sits in
fourth Cathy Kelly’s got one touches and fifth Petra cling learn no tops just yet
sixth place Aman Yoshi – really got that first part dial let’s
see if he can fix it there it is come on some left foots a stick we stock up I
think that’s what he’s gonna try next I think he’s gonna go again and really put
his foot in that crack it’s quite unusual to see the bone as old as the
second-to-last hole but you can now see why yeah it is not easy all right come on Yoshi all right get that foot up there come on
let’s go he has to rush this Oh amazing fantastic were toast ukyo gotta how we
work for that one in the crowd enjoyed it too
Wow he pushed off the volume itself just flat well the time pressure just made
him try a new method and what do you know it just worked yeah so that’s all
the three done with you see Alex buteo they’re ready to come out impatient to
get going very very tight in the women’s
competition that is right we’ve got four climbers with two tops
so if Alex tops this Boulder she’ll take the lead she is first out of courses
very much early days but you can see it there
four climbers with two Thompson’s coming down to attempt in the case of the two
Japanese fans me here in Tokyo it’s count max er very very tight in the
women’s final in the men’s jeong-hwan Shawn in a commanding position but he
can be caught the bad news for his competitors his rivals is that this is a
boulder you suspect him out like that’s right that’s right and if he gets loose
it’s over hey to @rb he’s out had a really really
consistent season cater leading the overall standings by 33 points remember
you get 100 for a win eight of a second he buddy’s been the third in Tokyo and
Marin fourth in Chongqing and the one in Nanjing cz’s worst results so far this
season’s fourth very very consistent performance now this really unusual
looking pass of potentially quite complex women’s four there’s a small gap
that alex has just got a left hand and you could possibly hand jam it if you’ve
got tiny hands for this person mentions very high textures very painful hand
jump oh goodness that is free that’s it there we go says it this is how you read
the boulder is how I read the bother talk us through what you think the next
move will be so this one actually gave me a little trouble like the the next
move going to the finish hold I’m not sure if you’re basically going to be
doing the exact same thing they did on problem three where they have to kind of
rock themselves over and catch it or if they’re going to wrap their leg around
that top volume up yep it does look like it’s going to be like the third problem
this for the lead weight of the cheer if you get sis she’s lining it up right
another job sets herself thinks about doing it statically and just calls into
minds it would seem so it does resemble that move on the third folder however
this angle is not the same hint it’s it it’s much sleeping is much steeper it is
much deeper so as you can see like Alex you she really had to like step back a
little bit didn’t want to take her hand off and yeah as you can see she tried to
just kind of reach a little closer before popping off
it was really interesting you could almost see the the cogs turning in her
brain she nearly went for it tried it half statically backed off went
again I wonder if she’s actually got any conclusions from that I think oh look at
that crowd I love it I love it Alex ten times US Champion Rush Cup winner here
in Vail that’s red cater meanwhile on the men’s three a real battle of a bold
especially given how much climbing these guys have done in the past few days and
here in the final it goes Alex she looks comfortable in this section now Oh she’ll be slightly worried by the photo
first attempt took her nearly two minutes so red if you it isn’t good at
this time it’s a problem yeah that’s a big problem 38 seconds it sounds like a
long time it’s not actually that long considering how much she’s got to do
there we go so I think she knows what to do she’s just got to go for it this is
for the lead this is it the crowd are giving it everyone Alex he’s giving it
on Alex get it get it Alex yeah beautiful sticks to Alex Puccio comeback
from one of the most injury play couple of years and a climbers experienced it
she takes the lead in our home work up in Vail
couldn’t be happier for her amazing seems great job Alex Puccio and look at that
crowd going wild she heads back in she’s left everything on the wall
I’m sure Aquila Gucci even if she didn’t catch a coincident read the crowd’s
reaction well enough to know what that meant so we’re getting on the mats Katja
carriage can’t win here this evening neither can Petra if John won John tops
his Boulder he wins kata watabe and Yoshi Yoshi cannot with a long way so
that’s so close so as you can see with the air with the third Boulder problem
yeah a little bit closer to the wall but as she went for this one you can see her
body coming out but there you go that’s Alex Buchi oh and her trim strength
right there so akela guchi she can take the lead here she does this in less than
five attempts it’s getting tight makes you know exactly meanwhile he’s
currently in second place again can take the lead if he does this in three or
less such a powerful bowl but that is red Wow Accio is looking very comfortable this is ago goodness these attempts are
taking so long that is ready just so many moves to do
on basically one volume and nothing is completely obvious really
it’s just climbing slightly quicker than Alex – may have time for three attempts
where she to need them she is a little taller as well she might have a little
easier time with this move soon he had a quick look at that top hold as if he got
the impression she liked what she saw as red just trying to get those feet to
stick now she commits yes and now she tops here Taguchi takes a lead here in
Vail Alex Puccio had the lead now Accio has it this women’s competition Achilles
is a tight she looks excited but she knows it’s not over she’s got a tense
two minutes watching so making era sake came on to this Boulder in second place
can he go one better when he leaves it we’ve seen the leap from a lead change
nearing house and now Ichi now seen the men’s lead change state same celebration
as his brother exactly yeah the kind of very reserved double fist pump some
another look at Akio yeah figure height really helped to really help it looked
closer than when that looks did it but you’ve still got to stick it look at
that she could do a one-arm er off that she’s now got a fairly tense time
watching the climbers is to come out that’s right you can see that level of
focus on John one space he is he knows John John out he’s got a simple task
it’s not easy at all he’s done simple tasks equating to be tops captive
cabbage well check out women’s for catches you can’t win here which has
already got the top if if she Topsy she’s guaranteed least fifth place like
Alex I think she’ll have like a slightly tougher time because there’s a moves he
seemed pretty wide so jeong-hwan job you would imagine he’s aware of what is
required here the boulder has been topped already you seen Rachel narrow
sake do it right come on Katya enjoy so far he’s so joong-won chomp
so he’s currently trailing having topped the first three boulders at second place
again attempts do not matter for jeong-hwan John a top is enough to win
as red it’s going to reevaluate that throw a little bit yeah a little bit of
liquid chalk T definitely a factor so since then with Japan and Japan in the
lead see their top is green Alex Peter and second we might not have much time
left in this final but we’ve got a lot of climbing things can change all right come on Katya a little bit of struggle going on there
it’s just such a powerful position to hold especially with your feet like so
extended all right all right it’s looking comfortable come on John Wong there he goes
so I’m not sure if you saw it earlier Charlie but John Wong you definitely
like got a good look at that already there it is
oh it’s looking like it’s over it is this it for the win for John one John it
is a clean sweep for boulders for tops your third champion 2017 as animated as
I’ve ever seen him John 1 John okay milking the crowd right worth and as
Welli Mike he’s been flawless in this final that is read time some idea Oh
Eddy Eddy he stopped to get a photo with Eddy the photographer the FSC
photographer and we’re right behind ad that was a great moment
oh goodness Eddy always in the right place at the
right time no he’s got on that so the men’s competition the winner already
decided let’s see if Petra tries Burnham’s all right Katya tries to
change up for beta a little bit nope it’s like it’s gonna be oh yes I love
seeing that Charlie I love it athletes thinking on their feet well
thinking on their feet and also just giving the crowd like this this
last-ditch effort so catchy cabbage so you didn’t get much
further but I do appreciate that instead of sprout yeah heads in she’ll
be fifth unless Petra Klinger can do this one in lesson three attempts Petra that just see her red top and the
blue and yellow of Alexi rubs off he wants to get on with it he’s eager I
suspect Alexi is not a man you want to see this
evening I think that failure on men’s to is good to blow in his mind for quite a
while oh well yeah we’ll see how he handles all this oh my goodness yeah
he’s not that the happiest camper for sure he was delighted after his win in
Tokyo but not back to the pit with a wedding veil Petra Zhou
yeah let’s ease out Petra is a little shorter as well like definitely powerful
climber but I feel like she might struggle a little bit with her keeping
her feet on as well all right come on Alexi so Lexi
is this Boulder is a battle and if there’s one thing Alexi likes it’s a
battle thread Petra meanwhile she’s trying to figure out this lower section
so it’s hard to see especially at the angle but there is a tiny little no
shadow jib at the but on that second volume the first volume she’s popping up
to and maybe maybe they’re struggling catching the thumb can’t really see but
here we go alright so the super consistent season
Petra Klinger after a knee injury ice climbing fifth seventh ninth and six in
the first four events so that’s two finals and the other two even when she
missed the finals with top 10 so she’s had a really consistent season and
obviously made the final here so it’ll be three finals out of five which starts
the seasoning start one fun piece with five World Cups in that’s like we’ve
only just got going that seasons disappearing and you ever see that you
can see relaxed pose emceeing for two full days that’s right that’s exhausting
it’s just chilling out trying to keep this crowd hype Aleksey he’d love to finish with the top
here oh goodness currently on to top selects in third
place I’ve got to say I’m liking Alexie’s focus on this one a little more
he’s didn’t seem to be letting it get to him as much the best he can do by the
way Alexei is solidify his third place albeit temporarily I can’t now
catch Machin our sake in second or John one shot in first all right come on
Alexei but he can solidify third three tops
have put him in a very strong position hopefully these two just wait it out a
little longer and you know get as much rest as they possibly can and they pull
something out right here it was a nice little look to the camera for Petra yes
she’s really good at engaging yeah Petra isn’t she started
quite a contrast in styles I mean Alexei could be in an empty room he doesn’t
interact at all you got Petra who’s getting the crowd and the
cameras fired up I like some fighting with all he’s got here 18 seconds to go
yep see unfortunately yeah he’s a little gassed needs to engage on that throw a
little more good effort from Petra yeah of all the things you could say about
Petra I don’t think a lack of effort could ever be leveled against two yep so our next will have me hone and Mecca
Kokoro Fujinami one actually just a few meters away from his on the mats and
legs he rubs off and John want John to share a handshake and a hug John Jonathan absolutely immense today
so if me hon Anika flashes this she will take the lead she’ll have the same score
as Akina Gucci but count back to the previous round will give her the lead
that is red so this is for first place albeit temporarily for me hope remember
E is a flash required though anything less than she cannot take the lead
Nihon really does have she’s a very well rounded climber very well rounded and
like she she can really get into the technical stuff but I don’t think like
powerful stuff like this is going to really stop her and she’s back down on
the mat which means she can’t win here today Wow Quora Fuji look at the power the feet
cut off he stayed on about to say he didn’t even use the arete until a little
later getting a little a little trouble here
Oh Oh every second counts here let’s know
George is young he’s just clutching his right bicep yeah
marveling over his power I wonder if he’s actually he’s gonna need to rest a
little bit to pull off that bit a small injury this is sleep I really think he
would have got it had he just committed first go but these problems are tough
though I can’t I’m definitely not sending any
of these anytime soon yeah yeah it’s a shame they’re not staying on the wall
for the public to have a go this evening we had a question about that on Twitter
earlier how long did the boulders stay on the wall not long here in Vail but
yes so if you come to an Asian World Cup you can have a go at the boulders after
the final that’s right but unless you’ve an elite level climber you’re probably
not going to get off the floor so me Oh lining it up a top would be a
lovely way to finish and she gets it very nice she was sitting in fourth
place just confirm her and position looks pretty happy with their day’s work at three third places in a row the last
three World Cups village oh here we go that is amazing everybody else that I’ve
seen has gone out to the arete as soon as they make contact with that crimp see it took a little bit too long just
hanging there if you can see that right now I’m getting up pretty pumped yeah
it’s definitely if not injured himself maybe just tweak
something in that right arm during the process of that move just confirm for
you that Miho nanaka that does put her in second place
so as since then in the women’s competition Akira Noguchi leads the way
she’s got three tops in sips attempt three tops of seven attempts at me Honam
knacker three tops in 10 attempts alex Puccio they are your current top three
however familiar figure of Shauna Cox’s still to attempt women’s for sure if she
can do it in three attempts unless she will win here in Vail and extend her
slender lead in the overall standings over Janna Garber after you Kagura has
been a little bit more conservative with that right arm yeah that’s definitely
definitely something not right there thinking it’s gonna have another go it’s
definitely something not quite happening all right setting up seems to be getting
it back let’s hope he’s not to come for that yeah very beautiful I’m still much
stronger than virtually everyone else’s that’s right oh I just goes through the
left it can’t quite stick it and it’s a shame if you’re gone for that I think a
little earlier on the first attempt I think he would have topped so Kokoro
will finish in fourth place when I got Yoshiyuki Augusta to come there he is in
the men’s competition and a real quick charlie if you when they cut to the
crowd if you look at the bottom right corner you’ll see Kyle Einar just want
to give a little shout out to him because he graduated a couple days ago
high school let’s go great guy came like the real bad kid
looking forward to seeing him in more World Cups I had him in the Coventry
booth in the World Youth Championships in China yeah yeah he’s great great guy
good to see him great kid would have been nice to see him a bit
bit deeper into the compasses there he is fairly unmistakable yeah absolutely
enormous in the gray vests and the glasses yeah be nice to see him all
right so Yoshiyuki oak gutter if he tops this he can move up to third he can
knock and make some room some off the podium because he would have three tops
he’s looking very lucky too looking very comfortable come on this is
for the bronze medal for Yoshiyuki Ogata and it looks like yeah she is going to
get the flash good for him he gets it and he takes third place Alexi rubs off off the podium shot a
cock see meanwhile needs this in three attempts or less unmistakeable very static style all right come on Shauna bring it on
home Shauna coatsy this for the win bring it
on home Shauna setting it up the DJ’s just got some Chemical Brothers playing
the tensions building and Shauna’s looking at the top is she looking at a
win back to the wall should take her time very very good idea so carbon to
pressure but this is the moment for Shauna she does not want to miss if she
does then she’s got one more attempt that’s it lining it up to go for that
white bolt on hold about a third of the way across come on Shauna the volume and
there it is stick seats shorter coxy wins in Vail as only Shauna coxy can
deliver here we go she didn’t win here in Vail last year but she did Quincy
overall title this year’s the other way round it takes a World Cup win she’ll
have to wait a little longer if you’d like back-to-back woke up overall titles
but she wins here in Vail amazing top came out big pressure made it happen
wonderful effort all the climbers what a show pasty final so tight
particularly the women’s that’s right very stacked field there was the moment she clinched it pretty happy with that one she’s had a
real fight on her hands this year with Janna Galbraith when young you didn’t
make the final here in Vail Sean had a clear opening and she’s taken it just to
confirm Shawna Cox he takes to win three tops in four times she’s followed by the
Japanese do-over key Noguchi me on an AK on a loose booty oh just misses out and
further down we got candy cabbage a petra cling look joining the kanji box got a split very
special guest fresh down from the wall that man number one John one John John
what an amazing day four tops you look amazing today perfect day yeah
usually our favorite cookies always hard for me because high altitude and you
know so every year I have to not good knee jerk look good
so always I has to nervous come to bail but yeah this year qualification is not
smooth like to me so I’m so close to go into the semi finai 18 place so oh yeah
I don’t know altercation day is not fulfilling and hot breathe and I don’t
feel no good but yeah I some many hamburger and and yeah so some some
joking so next day same time the same final day is feel really nice and we
also rice a finer is pretty good I get the filtration
I don’t yeah I don’t believe in finery aha yeah because I don’t like slap so
number one and number three is slap right but so I’m so nervous because
Japanese guy is crazy so they kept doing and very strong guys but yeah still
number one is pretty hard for me but yeah and number three is I think it’s
creepy Sagmeister so we’re just watching the replay now can you tell us how you
were feeling while this was happening yeah first time I get the top but yeah I
first not good but so I get the propel but yeah so some one meaning last and
yeah I think finding algebraic sometime I think yes is my problem here is my
style so try hard and last one minute I try again
so the same time go and switch the left and is let my guys and to tow hook it
yes I think it’s hardest to hardest moment in my life maybe yeah this match
is crazier yeah but finally I’m so rocket I think today’s I my dates are
rocking just very quickly because we know you’ve
got to go and receive your medal but you’ve done some special preparation
for Vail we hear you were preparing for the altitude in the last few weeks just
explain that yeah I get that know some in Korea I get
the I using to training mask you know something like this and and hot grease
baked and I get hot running something come back come to Denver and
were so hard running and and come today and eat so many hamburger and train
train a lot yeah finally and as a rock today I get though been well altitude
training and Hamburg is obviously worked fantastic performance you need to go and
receive your medal but congratulations get to see it fantastic see joe manchin I just have another look at the men’s
results couldn’t resist when he walked pastor
had to do it I have done rugby tackle his level of excitement man it’s just
that got me going man I love it and there you see clean sweep for tops
took in nine attempts it’s probably the owner only mistakes he made all day was
reading a couple of extra beers at the Thames making there a second in three in
takes his place on the podium alongside Yoshiyuki of gas Alexi rubs off was
knocked off by Yoshi you get a last minute that I could Cora Fuji and kata
watabe get the rest of the top six just thinking out here in Vail the
podium already being erected amazing fun doesn’t say super tight very exciting
final these problems were they were amazing really very volume heavy I love
to see and a very very interesting movement I a very mixed bag
yeah Wells really interesting Percy Bysshe to mentioned it to June the
observation period the one jump we had in the competition was at women’s three
now she worked to treat really nice bold and we had a really good selection two
slabs of the men which we’ve just heard John one Chauncey doesn’t like he could
have fooled me correct if that’s not like in slabs
what’s the same on some he does like right I just seen his partner Sol Sol
walk past he seemed to like number two quite a bit yeah he liked number two hey
it’s a brilliant day here in Vail slowly turning into evening hopefully not too far off a podium
ceremony just to just confirm the top three once again
jeong-hwan Shan is followed by making narrow sake brother of tomorrow and
Yoshiyuki are gotta miss the top three and the women Shana coxy wins ahead of
Akira Gucci and me Hernan maca just while we wait for the podium
we’re wondering what goes into the behind the scenes planning for a workup
like this his Nick Smith who’s the main organizer here at various year hey how’s
it goin my name is Nick the project specialist
for USA climbing I build the walls and I work as a liaison between USA climbing
the venue’s Vail Valley Foundation and any of our various parties that help put
on the event my job involves a number of pieces from putting up the tent to
helping lay out the stage all the way through the wall build all the way
through the event making sure the parties are all pleased with their piece
of the event biggest challenge about my job this go-round is definitely the
weather we had good bit of snow and ice and some cold rain as we were pulling
all the steel out of the trailers other than that it’s just peachy I think I
enjoy most about the job just all the people I get to meet and all the
relationships that are built throughout the event it’s it’s good fun to work
with a ton of different people and put on a great event that helps build the
climbing community I think a successful World Cup for me is when everybody seems
pleased with their piece of the puzzle because I’m kind of the middle man on a
number of pieces it’s kind of a job well done when everybody else is pleased if I
had to give some advice to people who are gonna host a World Cup but I’d say
the more planning and communication you can do on the front end the better it is
for everybody if everybody has their ducks in a row we’re all cranking
see there the mats already being disassembled but speak of the devil
next move oh did we just saw Nick talkin about what goes into organizing a royal
coffin what does it mean to the USA to have the
IFS see come here every year it’s amazing like I I don’t think I don’t
think the rest of the world really understand maybe understands how like
this is such a big event for all of us you have no idea how many people from
all across the country come here just to watch One World Cup it’s the you know
it’s the one we have so uh it’s great to see like many Americans and a bunt a
bunch of new folks you know because the GoPro Mountain games it doesn’t just
have climbing he’s got you know dog events and you know Outdoor Retailer
stuff like that and some people are only here to go to those events but then they
walk through they see the center of town they see this wall they’re like what
what is this like what do we what are we in for and they stick around as you can
see a good crowd yeah you a lot of those people are climbers for sure but there’s
a handful out there that this is their first climbing competition they’ve ever
seen it’s a certainly an amazing event if you
ever do find yourself in Vail for the GoPro mountain guides check out the dark
animal a smart just watching Shana cocktease top on
women’s three and once again got a very special guest
Alex Puccio that was amazing to watch it must have been a bit of an emotional
roller coaster uh yeah I I was terrified a few times and not because I was
nervous I was terrified of the actual moves on the boulder problem is that big
because of your injuries mean definitely partly because the injuries um I
remember actually talking to Yan Yan I so earlier today and we had a fun
conversation but you know I said it’s funny watching like you people like
gravity and stuff because you just go for it and I mean I think people like
Shana and myself were a little bit more calculated I think she still goes for it
more than I do or more maybe she’s just more good at the style that I am better
this out but I mean once you’ve had injuries and big injuries it to me it’s
not worth winning a World Cup to injure myself and take crazy Falls I mean I
followed the whole World Cup circuit and watching some the falls at Yaya take so
she goes for 100% I’m like woah that’s terrifying
I mean it’s brave and awesome but like I don’t know if I could do that but was
this kids but when you were when you top that last boulder do you know you’d
taken the lead I mean how where were you where you stood um my guess right after
I did it that I mean I was just having fun every time I talked to Boulder
especially something that I was scared of it’s my first time out but I mean I
think people could tell that I failed the first time I had a hand on it I
looked at the ground and then I got back up there and did it and I knew I didn’t
leave but how I didn’t like the boulder problem is that hard and maybe a little
more tricky and a lot of these competitors are so good at the tricky
stuff that I was pretty sure they were going to do it so I even said I’m like
I’m pretty sure all coming forth and I did autocracy that flash of number
one that was just a Malik we just walked out the crowd help you get up it I mean
you crazy I think that was more like real rock climbing and that’s what I’m
good at I you know it’s funny I don’t train this
like I don’t have a training program I’m mostly outside I think that’s why I’m
still have a smile on my face I don’t like for me coming into it– or coming
to I surf or final something I already won for myself and it’s just the icing
on the cake if I keep on moving up I just want to do each folder and see how
good I can do in each folder mm-hmm but I think it was like fun to stay in front
of my crowd like home crowd and hear them chief actually teared up a little
bit when I was getting out there’s like oh my gosh I have no one can tell oh but
what are your plans now that I mean are we gonna see when more World Cups or
what’s the next year looking like um I’m gonna do Munich I’m going to do Arthur
Rock mastered an adidas Rockstar but if I’m not going to sort the columns I’m
gonna go to Switzerland for a whole month as well to climb outside in right
now it’s turning into Park season and this is how I can like justify or you
know put it into lamer terms if someone asked me what what if you could do some
goal like big goal this year or next year what would it be in five years ago
I’d say maybe win the whole World Cup circuit and now I’d rather climb v15
than when a wolf and so it’s the easiest way you can put
it so the priority shifting do you feel that’s making the conversations in a
strange way a bit easier for you definitely I mean this is like my item I
lost like maybe 15 comps and my neck surgery and I won all of them but this
one and I just have fun now and if I win I went great I know I’m strong enough
but I also know everyone else is strong enough to so and it comes down to the
style boulders I mean to face that every Boulder like the first one I would have
been in luck and sometimes I do more in like the American style when it’s not
World Cups but I mean I had fun and I like testing myself and I definitely
climb inside a little bit to practice more dinos when it gets closer to Munich
but I mean just climbing outside I that’s where I’m happiest but you look
pretty happy on on the stage today we loved watching it is great especially
the performance you put it into fantastic to watch can’t wait for Munich
yeah I’m thrilled to so number injuries and I hope everyone there’s so many
injuries from like people like this whole weekend that I hope everyone good
health and luck and especially these crazy jumps though well thank you very
much the time go enjoy the crowd I think there’s about 500 people that want your
autograph yeah thanks very much Alex I see
something of a revolving door through the college college but in all
seriousness amazing to have Alex Puccio back on looking on such good form yeah
now she’s a rare form and you know what I that was a great conversation you guys
just had like I like really admire that she’s really grown like as a climber and
goes exactly what she wants to do what she wants to accomplish and likes like
she said it’s all about coming out here and having as much fun as possible she
had a smile on her face the whole time she got the Crouch as DUP like
it’s great you know she’s just all-around great climber and we’ve got
another great climber joining us the revolving door continues today’s winners
Sean it congratulations thank you very much
believer abouts the replay of your topper Bowl before when you came out did
you realize what the score was I had a little bit of an idea what the
score was and you and if I was in with a chance of winning I had to do it quickly
and I knew some of the other girls had done it so I knew it was possible which
was very exciting and yeah it was really really fun balded to climb so but it was
pretty slippery you can see much just talk us through these moves it’s a rare
opportunity to have you commentate on yourself definitely and it was pretty
brutal you know it’s very physical Boulder because you’re on this massive
cube volume in the middle of the wall just wrestling away and then you get to
a position where I’m about to hit hit and then yeah I guess all the pressure
builds at that point because you’re right the last movin it’s a bit I was
also curious as to whether I could stand up and just touch the bottom of the
volume but I thought I shouldn’t be too cheeky and just do did you think about
did it crap flush through your mind to have a go statically oh yeah totally I
mean when I was reading the block as well I think it would go statically I
think it wouldn’t be too difficult but it would be a little bit more risky and
see eventually I do jump just take my time to build up the
confidence to go and leave you always seem to have a pretty special time here
in values clinching the overall type of last ships winning this year you always
seem to have a good time I absolutely love it here in Vail the crowd is just
incredible you know everyone really gets behind all of the climbers not not just
the Americans and yeah I mean it’s just so much fun being here it’s a really
nice place to be and really liked it and you planning to stay on now is it back
home and get ready for my bike so I’ll stay out here for about a week filming
with adidas and hanging out with some of the other adidas athletes which will be
really fun and then I’ll go home for a couple of days before Vail before India
Mumbai yeah it’s only two weeks away well we’ve just heard the emcee getting
fired up and that means it’s a podium and that means you’re needed elsewhere
thank you very much for your time no congratulations thank you very much as
should go pop well done wouldn’t want to be blamed for the
podium ceremony going wrong now that would probably be pretty bad so slightly
chaotic end to our broadcast but when you’ve got the opportunity to talk to
all the main players bring a man you can’t turn it down can you you flag them
down they got to sit down and answer some questions the world wants to hear
it mm-hmm Shaun is very nonchalantly strolling over to the podium I think she
might get a hurry along in just a minute just introducing the dignitaries some
people say Kenan in the snappy suit at red just walked off the shots he’s ahead
of us a climb we’ve got Marcus culeros / president of the IFS see in the middle
in the black jacket our bronze medal is representing on shoulders still just
chewing the fat over here as men’s podium first okay she’s got a few
minutes so Brent podium first Nishiki regatta third genera Safiye and
second John Rochon won first place John sean has animated as I’ve ever seen
in both in our interview and on the wall running from ear to ear man Yoshiyuki
have an amazing semi-final topped all four ball does the only man to do so
backs it up with a podium in the final you got a dial it in here just woke up
podium for him previous best result was a fourth and
that was right here in Vail gets on well in the thin mountain air I’m predicting
maybe a little victory L or like fist bump from John Wall is made to narrow
sake brother of Tanoa extraordinaire aliy different climbers looking equally
successful in the 18 years old making claims a second place here in Vail all right are there none other and finally Toby’s
place on the top step a well-earned victory was it ever in doubt after a
couple of boulders jeong-hwan Shan there we go looks superb today over the moon
with his wind it sounds somewhat he was telling us what we heard from Kyra about
his high altitude chamber it would really want this one and he’s got it
gold medal around his neck handshake from Marco escolar is the dream finish
to his weekend here in Vail Tigers right decayed he is elated and here is the
South Korean national anthem and your ma I love it great win for jeong-hwan Shan brilliant
performance in the final as congratulations down told as he didn’t
like slabs to in the finally crush them the wings happy mountain even two week
break now as I mentioned to Sean okok see before Mumbai don’t forget the
baseball hahaha fabulous that bird she spawns all around
now to be the turn of the women ok ladies and gentlemen please welcome our
female podium for the Vale world yeah go for the women there’s me Helen occur
at the front fourth third place in a row for her King Gooch on the left to the
middle min on the bronze medalist representing another than Team Japan he
holding our God there’s Miho make a habit of third this year looks
absolutely delighted another podium for her won a couple of World Cups last year
Mumbai Munich nothing gonna ban ya this year consistency is often rewarded so
it’s proving here that is red that’s my favorite coming very happy Akina
gatesair on the left briefly held the lead lead was changing hands all over
the place very very close second place today she has won in the past here in
Colorado to second for her today climb really really well very happy with her
performance as well yeah I don’t thinking back on her performance of the
final and the semies don’t really recall in any mistakes yeah very solid
performance from an experienced competitor
Great Britain and shorter coatsy takes a position that is increasingly familiar
to her another win to add to the list extends her lead in the overall
standings she claims a very World Cup win it’s been a perfect weekend in
Colorado crowd enjoying that it’s presented with a very nice Tudor watch
that is read here the British national anthem you nice final moment there Akio Shana and
mijo on the podium another win for Shana amazing when you think we’re a shoulder
injury Munich last year having another fantastic season and so ends a wonderful weekend here in
Colorado big thanks to a LAN a year Percy Bysshe
in Cairo Conde and I’m a Tory for their help with the broadcast we’re back in
two weeks time in Mumbaai hope to see you them you

Only registered users can comment.

  1. women looking good, shauna is just an inspiration, global, but men's field, gets boring somehow hahahaha

  2. I have suggested this before, but would it be too difficult to show a split screen while there are two competitors on the wall? You have the technology for it, and that way you don't need to worry as much about prodding, just split the screen 50/50 and if one competitor finishes, go full screen on the remaining competitor.

  3. Pressure packed finish – great bouldering throughout. Congratulations to the podiums and admiration to all the finalists, a very enjoyable WC for sure. And t/y the stream.

  4. Puccio/Watabe 0:16:47 0:42:28 1:07:44 1:32:55
    Noguchi/Narasaki 0:20:35 0:46:58 1:12:28 1:37:45
    Kadic/Chon 0:24:53 0:51:04 1:15:36 1:40:22
    Klingler/Rubtsov 0:29:14 0:55:44 1:19:03 1:45:00
    Nonaka/Fuji 0:33:04 1:0:07 1:23:37 1:49:25
    Coxsey/Ogata 0:37:20 1:02:52 1:28:15 1:53:50

  5. Don't take me wrong, I love these streams, but the audio is ALWAYS terrible… Isn't there anyone checking the microphones volume?… and 7 minutes into the video, while i was typing this comment, someone finally moved the faders… ty!

    BTW I'm a sound engineer and I love climbing, I'll gladly do the job 🙂

  6. I have to say that the camera work could be better. In every cup sometimes there is going something interesting on the "stage" and the operator is showing crowd or views. Or they are showing resting climber while the other is climbing at the same time.

  7. why do they set different problems for men and women? why does that matter? many of these women are just as strong of climbers as the men. there are no outdoor boulders that are men only problems. ridiculous…..

  8. the time thing this year is absurd. for some of these harder, longer problems, you pretty much get one, maybe two attempts because if you have like a minute left it's useless to even get back on. so dumb

  9. FFS constantly missing people climbs, you would think people will have learned something in the past fucking 4 years?! This is by far the worse sport coverage I've ever seen. The only decent coverage in Tokyo! That was head and shoulders above everywhere else.

  10. Uhh, so i have the captions turned on, and at 11:23 it says, " it took us a second to see that faggoty tiger"…wtf can you please remove that?

  11. The best part of this video is the commentators are in either ear, so you can remove either the left earbud, or the right, or both if you're getting annoyed. Oh, and the climbing. The climbing is sick af.

  12. What was the motivation to go to the 4:00 flat format? Frankly, I didn't think 4:00+ was abused—if you can even call it that—very often. Climbers obviously got onto the climb with a few seconds left, but very rarely did they rest on the climb for extended periods of time. A few of these climbs took up to a minute and a half to complete with reasonable progress at all stages throughout the problem. It is unfortunate to see climbers with 20-30 seconds left not attempt the climb again.

    If there is concern about abuse of the format, make it something like 4:00+ with a five minute limit. If the climber isn't on the problem within four minutes they are done; if they do get on right before four minutes, they are required to finish by the five minute mark, or even 4:30. 4:00 flat doesn't make a lot of sense here in my opinion.

  13. I have watched a few IFSC competitions on this channel now. I am so disappointed in the commentators used, the editing of the feed (audio and video). I cannot hear anything the commentators are saying because both sound feeds are interrupting each other.

  14. Went back to watch this. W2 is yet another example of route setters taking the rock climbing out of competitions. Total crap in the eye of this 20 year climbing veteran. On the other hand, M2 was a nice return to actually requiring finger strength and climbing in a sport nominally called climbing!

  15. Almost a running gag how the female commentator with such a certainty always predicted the opposite of what the climbers were going to do 😀

  16. This valley girl is so annoying. Can't shut up about Alex Puccio. Can't even say names right, 10 seconds after the other commentator says it.

  17. If you ever get the chance to be the announcer for a climbing event, please don't stand there and say "Come on, ________, come on, you can do it" repeatedly. It's annoying, distracting adds nothing for the crowd.

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