Cantilever Brakes For A Gravel Bike Build? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech
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Cantilever Brakes For A Gravel Bike Build? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

October 18, 2019


(electronic whirring) – All right, welcome back
then to another episode of the GCN Tech Clinic,
where we try and solve your bike-related problems. So if you’ve got a tech issue
which has been plaguing you and you just cannot fix it, leave it down there in
the comment section below and I’ll do my very best to try and solve it in an upcoming episode. Let’s crack on, first question this week comes in from Alexander
Wendebo who says: Hi Jon, I have a touring frame, with
V-brakes or cantilever mounts, and an 8-speed Claris Groupset. Will the brakes/shifters work with V-brakes or canties? Have a gravel build in mind. Right, Alexander, either type will work with those STI levers you’ve got on there. The canties, they will work
most likely straight away and don’t need any modifications or playing around with whatsoever, because the pull of the
cable works fine with that. If you’re going to go ahead
and put some V-brakes on there, because the way that
linear-pull brakes work, you’re road bike brake
levers won’t be able to pull quite enough
cable for the V-brakes to work efficiently, or effectively. So, what I suggest here
is to get something called a travel agent. I believe they’re made by a
company called Problem Solvers, believe it or not. They make all sorts of
little wizardry and gadgets to try and fix problems
that we tend to find, as we try and cross-compatibility
issues with things. So, anyway, this is a little wheel, which routes the cable around
it, so when you pull on it, that wheel pulls more cable than intended. It’s a great little bit of gear and loads of people do use them. So, that’s what I suggest, if you want to put the V-brakes on there. Okay, next question comes
in from Juan Antonio Monzon, who says Hi John! I recently bought an old Peugeot Frame. I need a bottom bracket, but I don’t know which
kind it has on there. I bought a standard BSA, and just one side of the
caps screws correctly in, but the other side, doesn’t at all. Could you tell me what kind
of bottom bracket I need? I also want to build this
bike with just one chainring and 6 or 7 speed block on the back, so that the shifting from
the down tube is easier. Which ratios would I recommend? I was thinking to get
inspired by cyclocross and use a 48 in the front
and 11-26 in the back, as I won’t be hitting any
hard climbs with this bike. I’d be really happy if you
could just help out with this. Thanks in advance! Okay, let’s talk about
the ratios one first. Whatever you can get really with a six or seven speed freewheel. Because, you’re not necessarily going to have that many options out there. Providing, of course, you’re
not going to tackle any hills, you should be all right. But, when it comes to your
bottom bracket question, here we go. Okay, BSA threats, when it
comes to bottom brackets. If you look at the bike’s
side arm from each side, when I am talking about this. Left-hand side, it tightens in
a clockwise direction for BSA or British thread, English thread, whatever you want to call it. On the right-hand side,
anti-clockwise or counterclockwise. Then, for an Italian-threaded frame, both sides tighten clockwise, if you are looking from the side. Of course, a French frame
with Italian threads, probably fairly unlikely I got to say, more likely to have a
French-threaded bottom bracket, which tightens in the same
way as an Italian one, but the thread pitch is
different again, quite rare. If in doubt, I’d pop along
to a local bike shop, which should have a tool
which could easily identify exactly what it is you’ve got on there. But, I’d say it is unlikely to be Italian. More likely, BSA or French. Your French-threaded ones, it’s not going to be that easy to find, eBay will be your friend. Right now, we’ve got a question
here from quincemothman, who says Hi Jon, I’m a bit concerned with
how deep into a bike frame you can fit the seat post. Being of short height I ride a Wilier that is extra small in its frame size. This is my correct frame size and the saddle height looks fine. However, I still have to fit
the seat post a little deeper than the marker printed on it. Should I have it shortened or not worry? No one seems to talk about
this, only the minimum amount. Right, nice question. Now, unless you’re having to
really ram that seat post in for it to go down low enough, there really is nothing to worry about. Of course, there is an exception here. So, if you had an aero-shaped seat tube, so it’s like a standard profile and then maybe there’s a
cutout in one way or another. If you had to put that
seat post in too far, could well pop out the actual
frame tube, the seat tube. So that is something to be aware of. Like you say, no one really talks about how much seat post can
go inside of your frames. It’s always about how
much you must have in it. But that, sort of,
maximum insertion depth. I guess you could just
cut the seat post down a very small amount, just
to allow it to go down, and satisfy it really,
so it just covers up that bit of detailing on the seat post. Without seeing it, is really really difficult
to actually help there. What I suggest doing in this case, because of obviously you don’t want to go invalidating a warranty
of either component, is take photos of the actual parts. Send it off to the relevant
manufacturers, so Wilier. You haven’t said who the
seat post is made by. Just send it off and
explain the whole situation and show, actually, you
can hold the seat post next to the frame and
show how much seat post is inside of it, by removing it of course, and then they can advise you
either way on what to do in it. But, I can’t really help
any further on that one. Next up, we’ve got Andrew Bruce who says, Hi Jon, I’ve picked up
an old Gitane Tandem for very little money which I intend to refurbish
and restore, however, I don’t know whether it
would make more sense to upgrade the components
to more modern ones to cope with the demands of modern roads, or stick with the old tech of the ’80s and stay faithful to the era, or a combination of both old and new, i.e. old cranks with modern
mechs, shifters, and brakes. What do you think would be more desirable by the wider audience? Right, okay, Andrew, you’ve got to go with what you want to go. Don’t listen to all the
other people around you. But, ultimately, my experience with tandems
is relatively limited. And I know there are a
few compatibility things to work out there, too. Maybe you’ve got HUB brakes on there, so they’re different of course
to disc brakes or rim brakes. Things like that have to be considered. But, ultimately, the newer
components are going to really work better. Because let’s face it, technology
has moved on quite a bit. You’ve said it’s come from the ’80s, so just be aware of that. You know ’80s tech was good, but well modern tech is
even better, I reckon. So, I’d go ahead with that, but where compatibility limits it, well, you’re going to be limited
there, aren’t you, really? Send in a picture of it, because I’m loving the idea
of a retro tandem build. Right, next up is Nilo Neumann, who says, Is it a bad idea to store
a non-steel road bike in the bathroom? Would the moisture do
any damage to the bike? Right, funny you say this. A couple of mates of mine, who used to rent a house together, they used to actually have
a bike on a turbo trainer, set up in their bathroom. What their thought process
was, I do not know. Well, it’s on the screen right now. Really odd memories, of going
around to their house ever. But, I would say, it probably would have
a slight adverse effect on any metal components on your bike. Because, you’ve said there,
it’s a non-steel road bike. But generally, moisture tends to be attracted
to the coldest things. So on your bike, it’s going
to be your drivetrain, possibly your levers, your bottle cages. I don’t know, whatever is on
it, which is going to be cold. Because, if you think, really,
inside of a cold house, moisture always seems to form on windows, bits of steel in the
bathroom, things like that. So, I wouldn’t have it laying
around in your bathroom. That’s just one word of advice. Right, next up is Vincent Noppe, who says, Hi Mr. Cannings, I have got two questions. Right, we’ll tackle them
in turn then, I think. I want to clean and re-grease my headset, but my fork is stuck and I
can’t get it out of my bike. I can wiggle it after removing everything, as in your How to video,
but it won’t come loose. What to do? Hammer it out? Right okay, good question as well. You are going to use a
little bit of force here. So, you haven’t said if
it’s got a carbon steerer, or anything, but, remove
as much of the headset, the actual stem and everything
like that, as possible. Get yourself a decent bit
of wood, quite sturdy, and put that on top of the steerer tube. And with, you know, not a big hammer. Don’t go using an ax or a sledgehammer, or anything like that. But, use what I like to
call a toffee hammer, or just like a midway hammer. Give it a few taps on that bit of wood. That should free it up, and
then the fork should come out. Of course, here you want to make sure, that if it does do that, if
it does eventually come out. If the headset bearings
are shot in the lower part of the headset cup, that
they then fly out everywhere. Because you may well need to
know exactly the size of them, and everything, for the
replacements to go in there. So just be cautious of that. Maybe put down a big sheet, so
that anything that falls down can easily be found and
not going to roll away, and get lost anywhere. Anyway, second question, I recently got myself
a new shiny gold chain. Well done. After I put it on and fine tuned the gearing
on the 105 5800 groupset, the shifting is perfectly smooth. But not when the chain is on one of the two smallest
sprockets on the cassette. Then it jumps up a little bit, as if there is a bump on the cogs. What do you think of this? Right, firstly, let’s
make sure that the hanger is nice and straight, so the gear hanger. Cause, it could well just be playing havoc with those last two sprockets. Also, make sure that the inner cable is possibly not kinked or bent at all, and that it’s not getting caught up, and it’s not allowing the derailleur just to move into that perfect position. And I guess something as
well to consider here, you got no stiff links in the chain. So, very smoothly around, so
very slowly around backwards, with your bike either on a
workstand, or on the floor, and just have a look. Because, quite often, you can
detect, a stiff link there. If you’ve got one, hold the
chain in your hands, like so, and flex it back and forward,
so laterally in its plane. And, what else can I suggest
to you with this one? Sounds silly, make sure that the sprockets are on in the correct orientation. Because you can fit them in reverse, because the splines will likely line up. Well, it could possibly do, anyway. And the shifting ramps, they
may not be working correctly. So, try out those ones and
let me know how you get on. Right next up, we’ve
got Laszlo Zsolt Hurda. I hope I’ve said that one correct. Hi Jon! Indoor training season is on, and I just ordered my first ever trainer, a direct drive one. Is there any preparation I should do that stress and sweat won’t
damage my pride and joy? You don’t want to damage that. Also, should I use the trainer
with a brand new cassette or with the one that’s
currently on the rear wheel? Your professional tips and
thoughts are highly appreciated. Right okay, I’d get a new cassette for the direct-drive trainer. Reason being, you don’t
have to worry about swapping it backwards and forwards, and also, it’s going to
last you a pretty long time. Because remember, it’s
not going to get dirty. Is it on an indoor trainer? So, go ahead and do that one. As for stress, I’ve never
seen a bike break, personally, you know firsthand through
stress on a direct-drive trainer, or anything, I know
people out there have said they’ve seen it, but while I’ve never
seen one in all my years. As for sweat, yeah, be really,
really cautious about this. Because, once sweat gets in there, and it starts to work
away on your components, it could well be bad news. So, after using it, your direct-drive trainer and
your frame, get a fresh towel, not the one you’ve been
mopping up your face, and get rid of all that sweat. Because, that’s going
to be covered in sweat. And if you wipe the bike down with it, all you’re doing is just
transferring it back onto the bike. So, get a fresh towel or a bit of cloth, something like that, and wipe it away. And use something like
WD-40, or Muc Off MO-94, I think it’s called. Just spray bolt heads and
things like that with it. I always do that, just
as a bit of prevention, because it’s amazing how
that sweat can get down and start corroding away, at
your headset for instance. And you don’t know even
realize it’s happening. Right then, the next one comes in from, possibly one of the
weirdest usernames ever, mybrotherisnotapig has said, Jon keep up the good work! Large dilemma here, I have
a Shimano Tiagra groupset and I’ve replaced plenty of
Hollowtech II bottom brackets during owning the bike. But my last bottom
bracket, I made a blunder and I forgot to add grease on the threads, and now my left-hand bb is seized shut! Same thing happened a year ago and my local bike shop managed to hacksaw the bottom bracket cup from the frame. The removal tool they used
was like the Park Tool BBT-9, which is very thin and
the teeth ate through it. Right okay, this one,
a bit of dilemma here. Always let that be a lesson. Grease those threads, but it’s too late. It’s interesting, you’ve
done this twice, as well. So, something you could
do is lean that frame, or lay it down, so it’s
on the left-hand side. Before you do it though, get
yourself some gaffer tape, or some very-strong tape,
and cover up the hole the crank or the axle
would normally push through on that left-hand bottom bracket cup. So, cover that up. Sounds daft, maybe you could try this one, right, first of all. Pour some Coca-Cola in there. What’s going to happen there is, it could well break down the seizure that you’ve had inside
that bottom bracket shell. Cause Coca-Cola has a tendency just to work its way through anything. Of course, if you do that, you want to make sure
after you’ve done all that, that you wash the bike
really, really carefully, inside as well. So you’re going have to hose it all down. So it’s a bit of a daft thing
to do, but it could well help. But, like you say, using
a spinner like that is all well and good, but in your case, it sounds like it is
really stuck in there. So what you want is one that
you can attach to a socket, or even inside of a vice. Quickly, just going to pick one up, actually from the work station behind me. So, this one here is deeper, so it’s going to go all the
way over that bottom bracket. So, go ahead, shut that into a vise. You can get them as well with
a square, external square, rather than the internal like this. But, either way, you can
probably fit a 3/8, you know, bit in there and put it inside your vice. Cause, that’s what you’re
going to need, a vice. So you’re going to pull it,
so that the vice like so. Then, you’re going to
lay the frame down on it. And while it’s in the actual socket there, you’re going to use the
frame like its a giant lever, all right, so then you’re going
to just turn it like that, best impressions now and
it should free it up. Failing that, you could,
again use something like this. Cause it’s not going to
slip off the bottom bracket. This is what’s so important. Get it through. You want it to be locked in place, almost. So, maybe you have to have a
friend who’s just helping you, because you have a tendency,
you know, to slip a little bit. That sort of thing. Get yourself a ratchet on there, and make you’re going
in the right direction. That’s the most important thing, when you’re doing anything like this, that you’re going in the right direction. Then, with your ratchet bar,
even put an extension on it. I’ve done some ridiculous
looking things before to try and free up stuck parts, and
it’s nearly always worked. But, you’re going to use
some penetrating fluid, something like that first of all. And allow it to soak in
there before you tackle it. That way, it’s just going to try and help free up that
nightmare that you’ve created, if you’re not using grease. Now, you get on mate. Right, the final question this week comes in from Andrew Ferguson. Jon, question for you. Layback seat posts look
better than a straight one. Right, this is all subjective,
but I know what you mean. Is there a benefit to it,
or is it purely aesthetics? Yeah well, a laid-back one, you get a slightly laid-back position. So, those straight ones really,
they’re designed for people who possibly have a shorter upper body, so they want to get a
little bit further forward. You know, because their
natural proportions don’t allow them to do it. But yeah really, it’s about finding the
right position on your bike. You can get, you know, 40 mm layback, if you really look around. But most tend to be like 25, or inline is becoming
increasingly popular, as people trying to just
creep forward a little bit in their positions. But, ultimately, it’s all about
finding the right position. And, some people, I guess,
would say it’s all about looks, but don’t let that
influence your decision. Right, I hope that I’ve
been able to help try and solve your bike problem. Like I said at the
start, if you’ve got one, leave it down there in the
comments section below. And also, remember to
subscribe to GCN Tech Channel and click that little
Notification icon too, so you get alerted each and
every time we put a video live. Check out the GCN Shop,
well head on over to shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com. We’ve got a whole heap of
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just click just down here and just down here.

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  1. We love to help here at GCN Tech so if you've got a cycling tech question for us, leave it in the comments below using #AskGCNTech and we'll try and answer it in a future clinic.

  2. #AskGCNTech

    Hello John! (most likely John). Love the sh….actually I love the whole GCNTech channel… both GCN channels! 🙂

    I have questions regarding disk brakes (Shimano BR-M315) forgive me if they are silly (questions, not brakes 😉 ).

    1. I noticed that my brake lever gets softer in time (especially overnight between I leave my bike in garage and pick it up again next morning) which affects my breaking performance in my rear brake. Interesting is that when I pump it few times it stiffens a bit and braking gets better for a while. I guess that the rear brake needs to be bleeded but I would appreciate secondary opinion from you.

    2. As mentioned I have Shimano brakes. While bleeding should I use Shimano mineral oil? I noticed that it is possible to buy mineral oil (bicycle braking system specific – not DOT fluid) from other manufacturers and my question is if they can be mixed. Is there any difference between them beside the color (Shimano is pink-ish other ones I saw are yellow-ish)? Does color mean any other ingredients/additions in the bottle? Or simply mineral oil is mineral oil?

    Thanks for answer!

  3. #ASKGCNTECH – Hey, been watching the videos for a while and been so helpful in learning about bike tech and applying them to my own bikes. Was wondering if you had information on compatibility between standard mount and direct mount rim brakes. I have got standard rim brakes but want to upgrade my frame and most of the new frames have direct mounting holes on the frame. Is there an adapter or method of using single mount brakes on direct mount frames easily without buying new brakes? Thanks

  4. Jon, even though I currently am not having trouble with any of these issues you covered, I'm always impressed-challenged by people who attempt to be problem-solvers rather than complainers. (Left to my own devices, I naturally fall into the latter category.) Thanks for the input.

  5. For the stuck Bottom Bracket – use an impact driver either air powered or battery powered with the correct BB tool. The impact driver is way more effective because it is designed to remove tightly threaded objects. (Think mechanic removing wheel lug nuts)

  6. I'm trying to come up with a question for Jon–My brakes don't work, but my bike has a gold chain. Or should I go tubeless on a bike with a gold chain? Thanks, Jon, for helping everyone with mechanical blues.

  7. Another option for the gravel bike brakes is shorter arm length mini-V brakes. They take less cable pull. I have some Tektro 926AL mini V's on my Giant CRX-one that I've drop bar converted. They have 80mm arms, works fine for me.

  8. #askGCNTech

    Hi John – great videos, thanks, I am a real fan.

    I have an Ultegra Di2 with 52-36 chainrings and an 11-30 cassette.

    Unfortunately it is always slightly noisy in the big ring and normally quiet in the small ring .

    I have tried re indexing (myself and at the LBS), oiling, cleaning, etc.. and I have even checked the chain and cassette and they look ok. The front mech dies not seem to be touching the chain either.

    Any ideas as to what it might be?

  9. Omg John!! Coca Cola !!!
    At the very least advertising plug but really why suggest that, yes it can eat at the corrosion but it will also eat its way at the bike damaging the material of the actual shell unless the bike is steel
    Do everything you said but use a quality penetrating oil let sit over night spray again next day and if that doesn’t do the job and release it give it a shot of nitrogen which in Canada is available at the auto parts store and if you still can’t get it out and blind bearing puller and a couple of pieces of wood against the bike will pull it out
    You tuber hambini (your engineering buddy) makes a bb puller which he sells on his website

  10. Love the channel! You all crank out tons of awesome content amd have the expertise to back it up.
    Unfortunately the Problem Solvers Travel Agents aren't being produced any longer which is a real shame.
    I've ran mini vs with road levers as well. They are difficult to set up and there is lots of braking power but no modulation.

  11. I just bought Magic Cosmic Elite UST Disc wheels, after installing the cassette, I noticed the cassette and freehub are able to be removed together and I can’t seem to find any way to tighten the freehub to the wheel. Is this ok/normal?

  12. I just bought Magic Cosmic Elite UST Disc wheels, after installing the cassette, I noticed the cassette and freehub are able to be removed together and I can’t seem to find any way to tighten the freehub to the wheel. Is this ok/normal? #askgcntech

  13. An old Peugeot has a French-standard bottom bracket (35mm x 1, both sides normal right-hand threads.) You can buy new ones from Velo Orange or IRD (normal quality) René Herse or Phil Wood (deluxe quality).

  14. That BB is most certainly a french one then. Here they sell french threaded BBs: https://studiobrisant.com/neco-innenlager-4-kant-jis-hohlachse-ita-fra-bsa?number=0500150201

  15. #AskGCNTech
    Hi John! I'm planning on converting my 2x roadbile to a 1x. The only rear deraileur with a clutch mechanism Shimano offer for roadbikes are the Ultegra RX. I was wondering if the mountain bike rear deraileurs are cross compatible with the road gruppo parts. The old Deore have a similar Shadow design and have a clutch mechanism. For less than half of the price for an Ultegra RX rd, i was wondering if i can get the same function, and maybe performance, from the Deore instead. Cheers!

  16. There are a couple of different companies that make sweat catchers that stretch between the handlebar and seatpost for indoor training.

  17. Good info I have never heard elsewhere. Thanks. The images you include help my understand. More pics and longer viewing would help even more.

  18. Just use canti's and keep your build simple. Note my 2010 Giant TCX was wide enough to accept a 40mm WTB Nano tire. Oddly in the front the tire was too wide and I had to deflate the tire to get it between the brake pads.

  19. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon, love your work, I've learned most of what I know about bikes on this channel. Hope you can help me with a bit of a problem. I recently bought a cheap second hand Tifosi road bike (cannot figure out which model). It was not all working so i proceeded to fix it. I replaced the Dura-Ace STI with Sora 3500 because DA was stuck and i needed 2×9 shifters. Rear derailleur is DA rd-7700. It looks like it was damaged in the past because the threads in the derailleur body (where the cable retaining bolt go in) were stripped, but I hacked/bodged it by forcing an M6 bolt in it. Now, when shifting, it goes well enough up to the middle of the cassette where the chain jumps back and forth. And if i keep going it will go to the biggest cog before i get to the last click on the shiffter. The derailleur hanger looks straight and so does the derailleur itself. Could this be a pull ratio issue and i need to change the derailleur? It probably doesnt matter but it looks like the bike had a Sram groupset initially (sram sticker on the chainstay). A second question which is not such a big deal : the chainset is shimano FC-r700 and on the small ring it says "10 speed only" and I have 9 cogs in the back and a 9 speed chain. It shifts ok, but I've heard that it woud be even better if I added some 0.6mm spacers to increase the distance between the chainrings. Any advice? Thank you again for everything you do, I hope you know how much you help a lot of people out there.

  20. #askgcntech
    hello GCN
    I am moving to Canada within few weeks. I am planning to work as a bike mechanic, in a local bike shop there, as a part time worker. Can you please recommend me some basic and essential skills that I need before starting working there. What things should I learn before joining and what all things will I need to become a good bike mechanic ? Please help me and thanks in advance. 🙏

  21. To anyone chopping of bits of seat posts:
    Please, measure and re-mark the minimum insert, and make it obvious it's been modified to avoid second-hand mishaps.

    Safety tips from a guys who doesn't own a helmet, and uses homemade lights.

  22. They put that turbo-trainer in the bathroom so they could pump up the humidity. Sort of like training for altitude. Maybe they were looking to race in Florida or Mississippi?

  23. Setback/layback seatposts provide a little extra suspension – the post will flex a bit. Setback posts are also easier to engineer for saddle clamping. Clamping will work/adjust better or post will be bit cheaper compared to straight.

  24. @alexander wendelbo: instead of the travel agent, you can use mini-v brakes. The shorter arms make them work with short pull levers, but keep in mind that tyre clearance is reduced to about 36mm tyres or thereabout.

  25. I installed Problem Solver's Travel Agent on my wife's touring bike three years ago. They work well and do solve the problem. Unfortunately, I went back to the site last year to purchase the product for another retrofit and they are gone. I could not locat the product on Problem Solvers web site or any where else. Please tell me I missed the obvious.

  26. In answer to the question about fitting cantilever or v-brakes to a CX bike. You can get short v-brakes. You can either use Tektro RX6 Mini-v or the TRP (Tektro Race Products) CX8.4. Both are compatible with road brake levers.

  27. Travelagent devices for brake compatibility were great. The old women CX videos "petite reines" had a few bikes showcasing these trying to get away from the horrid cantilever shudder and using MTB V-brakes.

    Another options as cited is the mini-V from tektro/TRP. I loved the CX 8.4 or 9's and used them in my pre-disc 'cross bike.

  28. #AskGCNTech: John, of note: Problem Solvers (i.e. Quality Bicycle Parts) no longer produces the Travel Agent. They're available in some retail channels, but mostly are found on eBay or used bike forums these days.

  29. 14:56 layback seatposts… i had to get a seatpost with more layback so i could keep my position and not have the clamp sticking out just below the seat cutouts where my thighs would rub against them and cut holes in my bibs. looks a little weird with the seat clamped so far back on the rails, but it does the trick.

  30. Hello, John.
    You give good cycling tech tips and I really appreciate them. But your physical science is not too great.
    The water condensation on the window is caused by the glass is being cooled down by colder outside air – correct. But if you leave the bike in the room for some time, all parts will have the same temperature. You FEEL metal colder, just because it's a better heat conductor and transfers heat faster than rubber or plastic. It's NOT colder.

    But if you leave your bike in a high humidity bathroom, you usually get moisture condensation and later corrosion. This is an empirically proven fact. 🙂

  31. Scrubbing out the braking tracks in no time at all on a carbon wheelset with cantilevers in the mud and dust? Here, take my money, and take more of my money, because I'm a stupid and flippant fashionista who doesn't know the first thing about how bikes work.

  32. Jon, Chain skips on 2 smallest cogs. Same thing happed to me, Check the B tension adjustment, To tight and it will have less chain wrap around the 2 small cogs.  corrected the  b- tension fixed it. What do you think?

  33. Hi Jon!

    I recently bought a gravel bike with disk brakes, but just some days ago after I washed it the front brake lever just stopped taking. I tried to move the position of the brake but now the disk goes against the pads. Left it in to a bike shop but they only fixed the brake lever not taking. Any ideas on how to solve this?

  34. #AskGCNTech Could you suggest a way/hack to reduce the noise of a bike roller? I'm using the rack holder (not the free rollers) and it makes a lot of noises. Could I use foam or any other system?
    Thanks!!!

  35. In my touring bike, i have deore v-brakes with drop bars and tektro Road levers which work with the brakes without modification. All i have is pre-gravel

  36. for the seized bits, there is this stuff called mouse milk. Its penetrating oil that will work its way in and help you loosen stuck parts.

  37. Not only is it curious why your mates placed their turbo trainer in the bathroom but even more curious why they felt the need to wear their helmets to ride and watch there.

  38. I've got an early 80s Gitane tandem and made it semi-modern. Nothing against old tech but the 80s stuff that came on it wasn't that great. Wheels were the first thing, Velocity built deep-v tandem wheelset it much stronger and the machined sidewalls let the brakes grip better. NOS 9sp 2 piece truvative cranks are much stiffer though not really lighter surprisingly. Needed a French thread Phil Wood BB for the back crank while I just changed the eccentric in the front to use the sram english thread bb. Modern rear der with 9sp bar end shifters which I already had. Left the front der, the front handlebar, seatposts, and the front stem factory. Newer lighter chain and the kids prefer a flat bar in the back so changed that out. Didn't change the weight any compared to the old equipment but it stops faster, shifts better, accelerates quicker and handles better. I wouldn't want to do a road race with it but the frame makes it nice riding gravel and rail trails.

  39. The BBT-69.2 bottom-bracket tool that you showed is made of soft aluminum and is not very rugged. A better choice for the viewer's application would be the BBT-19.2, which has the same diameter and spline pattern but is made from steel. It also has an external hex that would be more amenable to clamping in a vice.

  40. #askgcntech Hey John, I had a big fall on my new DI2 bike last week. Fortunately I aimed for a soft grass verge and except for getting covered in mud and having to find my water bottle and mobile phone from the undergrowth, both I and my bike survived reasonably intact! But it got me thinking, do you have a good checklist for what to check after a crash, both on the side of the road and more intricate checks later on a workstand? In particular anything that is specific to a DI2 bike rather than mechanical? Cheers! Matt

  41. Hey John, I learned so much from you guys over the year, thanks. Keep up the good work. My question: I got a new with bike with a SRAM Apex 11 speed, 11-42T cassette. Can I fit one of those 10-42T cassettes on there (e.g. SRAM XG-1150)?

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