Archery | Stabilizers – What’s the Difference?
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Archery | Stabilizers – What’s the Difference?

August 15, 2019


Stabilizers, what’s the difference? A more expensive stabilizer is more stable. Thanks for watching guys! and I’ll see you..there’s still this much of the video left… In that case, let’s talk stabilizers.
Stabilizers are funny things. A modern recurve bow looks like a
vamped up bow, but then you get these things sticking out, and the new guys at
the range are like “hey, what are those?” “Do they help you aim?” and I told them no, they are melee weapons for an archer! As the name implies,
stabilizers make the bow more stable. A typical stabilizer system consists of a rod, a weight, and a damper. Rods come in different lengths. The weights can be changed, and the damper is often sold separately. If you’re buying a bow package it normally comes with just one long rod stabilizer, but most archers will use a full set
which includes an extension rod, a V bar, and two side rods. Stabilizers fulfill a couple of roles. One of them is vibration and noise
dampening. Regardless of whether you are using a compound or a recurve bow, the shot
will rattle the bow, and that can have an effect on the accuracy of the shot. The rod absorbs this vibration. Most stabilizers use rigid, light materials such as carbon. Stabilizers also help by adding weight to the bow. Modern bows are usually lightweight,
although the current trend seems to be heading back toward heavier risers. The disadvantage of a light riser is that it is very susceptible to slight movement. This is why most bare bow shooters prefer
heavier risers. Balance is important as well, and this is where the length of the
stabilizer and the positioning of the weight matters. Most of the weight is at the
end of the stabilizer. This has the effect of bringing the bow
down, counteracting the archers draw. The front weight makes the bow steadier in the
hand which makes it easy to keep the sight ring floating over the target. It also makes it more difficult to
accidentally torque the bow. The addition of the side rods adds further horizontal stability. Many risers also have additional points were you can
screw in smaller stabilizers. Stabilizers come in many
lengths, types, brands, and prices. So what’s the difference? First let’s go over the parts in a stabilizer system. Typically, a full set will include a
long rod, two side rods, and a v-bar. Exactly what you get will greatly vary from what someone else will get.
This is based on things like your shooting style, how balanced your
bow is, your draw length, and other things. For example, you may need to get an
extender to bring the weight further forward, but you don’t have to. Some archers prefer using only one side
rod, but you might use two. Some archers use straight standard v-bars, others use
angled or adjustable v-bars. Some will have heavier rods or more weight. There aren’t any real rules of thumb.
Coaches and staff shooters will often go by experience and a bit of technical expertise, but the average
archer can get a simple set, and it will be mostly fine, and getting it fine tuned is
a matter of trial and error. The length of the stabilizer strongly
depends on whether you are a target archer or a bow hunter. Target shooters prefer long stabilizers. The extra length adds extra stability and precision over a
long distance. However, you can imagine that having a
30-inch stabilizer sticking out of your hide is kind of awkward if you are hunting. So, a bow hunter generally uses shorter,
more compact stabilizers. These offer some degree of vibration control and
stabilization. For a target archer, I can’t really say much about what you
should or shouldn’t get. I’ve heard people recommend that your long rod
should be longer than your draw length, which makes quite a bit of sense, though
most long rods are anyway, so that’s not really a problem. You have different
lengths of side rods which will bring your weight slightly forward, but, again, it’s not
much of a of a huge issue, and you get different angles of V-bars. Honestly, exactly how long your rods are
or what angle your V-bars are doesn’t really matter that much. As long as you have a
set of stabilizers, you will notice a huge difference in the way you shoot. I would
only really pick specific lengths or adjustments if your coach recommends it. Finally: cost. The price range is dramatic. The entry-level stabilizers that come with
bow packages are usually in the AU$50 range. For the top-of-the-range Doinkers,
it could cost up to AU$300, and that’s just the long rod. The side rods are an additional cost, and, all up,
you could spend over AU$600 on your stabilizer system.
That costs more than a lot of risers! With that much money going to stabilizers, the cost makes a huge difference.
How much you spend depends on how much you are comfortable with,
but the rule of thumb here is you get what you pay for. In the low to mid-range stabilizers you get brand names like Cartel, Win&Win, and Easton.
Those stabilizers tend to be very similar in design. They’re a simple long tube. I should note that the cheap stabilizers
can come in some different color options. Say, if you want a red stabilizer or a blue stabilizer, that’s usually reserved for the low-end,
whereas the high-end stabilizers tend to come in black or… black. One key factor in
a cheap stabilizer is what they come with. The Cartel I’m using right now came
with my original bow package, and this is exactly what I got: this one stabilizer. It’s just a rod made from carbon, and that’s it.
The weight at the end is really light, you don’t get any extra weights, you
can buy extras, but these are really hard to adjust because you only have one knob. Whereas, compared to this Doinker, I’ve got multiple layers of weight, and I can
adjust, so I can have 4 weights or 5 or 8 weights, depending on how heavy
I want my stabilizer to be. That is one key difference between the high cost
Doinkers or Beiters or Carbon Fuses versus the cheap Cartels. Another thing is
the cheap rods don’t come with dampeners. So, for example, I just removed this.
This is a Cartel Midas Damper, and you can buy this separately, and you can buy… I mean, they all do the same thing
basically — they’re a bit of rubber which attaches to the end of the rod. I’ve got one here. Like this.
And it adds extra dampening. So a full stabilizer system will have the long rod, the
dampener, as well as the weight at the end, and the cheaper level stabilizers don’t
come with these. They’ll come with a a rod and a weight, but not
a dampener. This must be bought separately. Whereas, the high-end ones will have both the rod, the weight, and the dampener. It’s worth noting that Doinker is
probably the most well known, and the best manufacturer of stabilizers.
In fact their dampening system is used in other high-end stabilizers like Beiter and Fuse. On the top-end you have Doinker, Beiter, and Fuse with more advanced design features. Beiter’s Centralizer, for example, uses a
system of exchangeable rods, while the Fuse Carbon Blade is s
blade-shaped design to minimize wind profile. Apart from these advanced features,
more expensive stabilizers offer more customization options, such as controlling weight and balance. Now,
because of the sheer cost of a top-end stabilizer, and we’re looking at possibly
a thousand dollars if you buy only the top-end Doinkers,
I recommend that if you’re starting out, just go with the cheap ones first.
They get the job done. The moment you set up your stabilizer system,
it’s working, and you will notice the difference. Many world-class archers still use mid-range stabilizers. So, they get the job done. Full stop.
However, if you know what you want to get, and you want to spend big, you won’t be
disappointed by high-end gear. So, in short, a more expensive stabilizer is more stable. Thanks for watching.
I’ll see you next time.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red 😛

    I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.

  2. I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red 😛

    I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.

  3. I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red.

    I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.

  4. I wondered about that as well, but realised that the Doinker Platniums have a solid plastic housing around the damper at the end.

  5. Do you have the cheaper doinker vbar? Is there any play on it? I can wiggle my short rods around and it sucks, It's like the old tfc's built in to a vbar.

  6. I have to disagree with your statement " A more expensive stabilizer is more STABLE".
    Any cheap set of stabilizers with the correct length and weight distribution can balance and create a more stable sight picture just as well as a high end set of stabilizers. At the end of the day in terms of stability for an archer stabilizers are just tubes with weights at the end, it terms of dampening and vibration … that's a different story .

  7. I agree with you, actually. I use "stable" in a very broad sense that includes vibration and dampening, and by extension how well you can fine-tune balance. But otherwise, I push that cheap stabilisers are just as good and there's no real need for big spending on stabilisers. I only bought the Doinkers as a bit of a reward for myself 🙂

  8. Firstly, I don't use aluminum arrows, so I can't demonstrate. Secondly, while it's possible to do some crude repair by hand, you can find a special tool for it. Thirdly, aluminium arrows aren't really worth that much to repair. May as well get new ones, or get carbon arrows.

  9. What are you thoughts on using side rods / vbar mounts that are different brand/model? I have a Platinum Hi-Mod long rod and I'm looking to get side rods soon, however it's about another $400+ for plat hi-mod side rods + adjustable v-bar mount. I'd much prefer to use a cheaper set of side rods without compromising performance. Thanks

  10. I cartel & 1 SF long rod, cheap, well worth the 30.00/ea! One question: why a dampened when (slo mo vids on YT) when arrow loose contact with rest half way past shaft, totally no contact for vibration from bow to influence arrow?

  11. Thank you for the video. It was very useful. I'm about to buy my stabilizer system, and I'm not quite sure about which one should I choose. I know you recommend Doinker, I have some other options too, and I would like to hear your advise, and the reason. My options are (in order of price): W&W HMC Plus, Easton X10, Doinker Avancee, W&W HMC 22, Sebastian Flute Elite, Doinker Elite Supreme (the most expensive). I would really appreciate your help.

  12. Bee Stinger XL Premiere Freestyles on sale at lancasterarchery for 43% off (130$) im getting one to replace my 30 year old oldschool stabilizer 🙂

  13. I don't shoot with a stabilizer and just practice in my back yard at 20meters. am I gonna suck?

  14. I just bought a used Beiter Centralizer long rod for $36 USD. ($38.60 in AUD) Described as 36" with three tuners and it looks like it has a weight adapter on the end. I plan to use it alone as my first stabiliser. It would have cost more if I bought a new, low-end rod.

  15. You channel is excellent. Thank you! Would you know anything about bow sims like fireline or burnie's panic sim. Is it a waste of money? Many thanks!

  16. So here is my beginner stabilizer system…you tell me if its good or not bro…
    For long rod I have a SF Axiom 28" (won by bidding on ebay..hell yea) 
    Cartell V-bar + Cartel CR Carbon Extender side rods.
    Now they are not here so I do not know the weights and everything but I think the long rod has the damper. Give me some words brah…. 

  17. Hey NUSensei. I have watched over 15video's so far from you and i really like that you did add some jokes this time. Other than that keep the tips coming 😉

  18. I have watched all your videos. Love it!!  I don't even own a bow or shoot yet but you have inspired me. Good job my friend..

  19. i am using a kaya k3 stabilizer on compound…some of my friends told me that it is a recurve stabilizer. will it work well on my compound bow if it is a recurve stabilizer??

  20. I'm looking into getting a stabilizer for my ILF recurve bow but I don't know what length to get.
    I tried my friends stabilizer which was 27" end to end with 8oz. of weight and it felt fine on my bow.
    Now does it matter that I have a 31" draw length?
    What do you recommend?

  21. Man thanks for this video and information. I knew nothing about these until your video and it really helped to give me a good understanding of what exactly these are and the make-up in choosing one. I'm only just starting to get back into archery from many years ago as a kid. I love the sport and bows. I'm really wanting to upgrade my sight, rest and stabilizer on my new bow. Thanks again!

  22. I like your video, great job! It was super informative and you're very good at explaining things. You clearly know what you're talking about!

  23. @Kumikaine : what is considered correct length and weigh distribution?
    which length is the best all for side rod, extender, and long rod?

  24. I'm currently using the Beiter stabilisers that I borrow from my coach, but I find them a bit on the heavy side and I'd like a set on my own (plus I'm terrified to break one of the small rods). I have the possibility of getting a set of Doinker Avancée for about 290 USD, but I'm not entirely sure??? Do anyone have any tips or ecperience with the Avancée stabs?

  25. The bow I'm currently using is an Optimo+ and recently, the effect of its light weight on my aim is becoming more and more apparent to me. Since switching to an ILF Setup with a heavier aluminum riser is still quite the investment for me, I was wondering if simply adding a basic stabiliser set to my current bow can help me get the additional weight I need. Should I go for it?

  26. Just wanted to say I really appreciate your channel. I am just getting into the sport and I have an experienced archer/coach who is helping me build a customized Olympic setup. Your videos have made it so I don't have to hit him up every time I have a question about unfamiliar gear. More importantly, your approach is informative, not insistent. It's educational without having to wade through forums that do more bickering about their preferences than they do informing folks of how to discern between gear for themselves. Much thanks.

  27. When i shoot outdoor, I always hung a strip of thin cloth at the end of my stabilizer. I use this to measure wind speed and direction. You think this is allowed in the WA competition?

  28. The good ones come in black or black. How about black? Or black. Ooh, I would love one in black. (Thanks for the video; I learn a lot from your archery vids!)

  29. Im thinking to buy stabilizer. I need to buy on budget. I think i should get Axiom+ set, i have Axiom+ limbs and Axiom riser. Maybe it wil be ok?

  30. Hello Sensei. What is your opinion of the new Wiawis Stabiliser system as compared to the HMC plus or HMC 22? How would you rank them?

  31. What about those things with dampeners and weights sticking out of the top and bottom part of the riser before the tiller bolts? What do you call those?

    I recently tried emulating those "things" by grabbing one extra side bar with a dampener and screwing it on top of my riser (btw, I've upgraded to a proper Axiom+L now. Hurray me!). Needless to say, the extra weight and lesser vibration helped. The only problem I had that time was I didn't know what the hell I was doing lol!

    EDIT: Oh wait. I just rewatched the video and you already mentioned them. Haha! Never mind then! XD

    EDIT2: Although, it'd be nice to still know the purpose of those things as compared to the usual front and side stabilizers. =)

  32. +NUSensei Hello! i recently wasked about a bow on of your other vidios but here i hear that u talk about "Cartel" with that i guess that you are or might be a bot familiar with that brand. so is this scope good for a target archer with a compound bow, http://www.hobbyskytte.se/product_info.php?currency=EUR&cPath=23_39&products_id=251 .it has 8 times magnification and is right handed, the page is on swedish as u might see as you probably don't understand a thing! always thanks for yuor help NUSensei! 🙂

  33. The short answer being that these are the biggest rip-off in archery. Even high end carbon tubes are pretty cheap these days, and archers have some idea what those costs are like. A few machhined bits and pieces are not a significant expense, look at the price of machined flashlights today, they can be a dollar store item. 200 dollars spent on a screw lathe early in one's career will pay you back over and over again.

  34. I like this video a lot. I just got a Doinker Platinum set, 30" with side 12". I cannot wait to try it when my new target bow, that I ordered last week, Obsession Pheonix XL, comes in.
    Thanks for the plain talk. You give a lot of info in a short time.

  35. Hello, i have a question about stabilisers. Im thinking of buying the SF Axiom plus complete stabiliser set from merlinarchery as my first stabiliser set. The stabilisers come with dampeners and one weight but since i will most likely need more weights to get the balance right i went looking for SF Axiom weights. I could not find any extra weight so im wondering if the weights are brand interchangeable so i can get extra weights for my stabilisers. Are there any SF Axiom plus weights or do i have to use stabiliser weights from other brands if thats even possible. This is my first time buying stabilisers so im sorry if this question is stupid but i need to know since a stabiliser where i cant costumise the weights are kind of useless to me.

  36. I know this might be a slight hijacking, but what are the benefits of a top limb damper? I am wondering if getting one for my SF Axiom recurve.

  37. I bought a complete Sebastian Flute stabiliser set for £99 on eBay, weights and dampeners included – looks like there ARE some bargains out there :o)

  38. I wonder when they come up with a gyroscope to be fitted to the riser – that should hold the bow dead straight.
    And when will NASA start to test recurve bows in zero gravity? :oD

  39. thanks mate, very informative, I thought those sticks on the bow was for decorative purpose :). btw, you gain weight in 3 years, your bow can be human stabilized now lol, just kidding

  40. Hi NUSensei, question regarding stabilizers, will win win HMC 22 rods fit doinker v-bars? I could not find other v-bars that have an adjustable vertical angle …

  41. Hey Sensei, I am on my third bow now, about to join a team/Soc.
    Upgraded from SF Optimo+#32"@ 64" to a Martin Jaguar V2 #50 @60", then sold both and put it towards these:

    I was just shooting in my (small) garden, but after getting the bug, I went ahead and got myself a Hoyt Matrix 25" riser I am waiting on, some Win & Win carbon foam ILF limbs, Shibuya plunger, Win&Win clicker and at #38 @ 68" (I did my research this time). A 60" #50 bow is not good for a 6ft man (The Martin Jaguar v2).
    I'm a student, so I figure all of this experimentation is getting costly, so I figure aim high quality, I feel I will be in the sport a long time.
    I was wondering about stabilisers, I would like to shoot target and I am looking at the Easton ACE Carbon Long Rod 34" (used on ebay). Is that a good choice and are my new bow selections a good choice?
    I am buried in the learning at the moment, I am quite fascinated in making the perfect bow for myself.
    I am a fan of barebow, and wondering do I need to go all out on gadgets and the three way stabilisers etc…
    I also bought a Skorpion Krosson sight I need to learn how to use, but I a have taught myself to shoot "instinctively" at the moment ad it seems to be working out.
    Now with the 68" at #38, I can actually learn form I think.

  42. Sensei, what do you call the thing that is attached on top of the sight which looks like a small stabilizer. How does that work and what is the function of that accessory?

  43. long rods should be longer than your draw? whats the physics behinds this considering i could just add more weight instead? you said it makes sense but how? hunters get shorter ones, target shooters get longer ones, given circumstance. but whats the weight? lengthand weight compared to draw weight? a dampener compared to string silencers? and how long should it be compared to just adding a lot of weight on a shorter one?? and what do the side bars do? balance is understandable. isnt there just a cookie cutter thing? do this and youll figure it out? instead of saying hey these things exist so go find out what you like? adjustable angles lol why? more variation and a selling point? even looking at most pro target shooter its flat and even i dont really ever see someone with different angled bars.

  44. Just got myself doinker estremo Stabalizers but how can i adjust the screw mount? i tried turning it with an allen key real hard but i still can't do anything

  45. Tried cheap and expensive stabilizers. No real difference. All marketing and gimmicks. Common with archery gear.

  46. can you tell me the purpose of a short stabiliser on a compound bow which is attached to only one side of the bow

  47. I'm a new shooter and I have just spent 10k on my gear. I'll be a pro within a week, and shooting at the Olympics no dought. And I get all my lessons from GamerGoneTech, I don't need arrows to practice I just the air.

  48. In fact there is high speed footage from Beiter showing the shock produced when releasing the arrow occures after the arrow left contact with the bow string.

    This means the shock will not affect the arrow in any way, no matter how strong it is.

    It leads to the conclusion a stabilizer only needs to add stability to the draw process using lenght and weight if needed as well as minimizing the muscle tremor when drawing the bow.

    Also, a thin stabilizer is much more resistant to wind blowing from the left or right side.

    For the moment I'm using the Beiter centralizer without weights attached to it.

    Having seen this video I might try some front and side weights in the future.

  49. Wouldn't a much shorter, but more practical stabilizer (say 1ft long instead of like 3) work just as well if you had a lot more weight to it's end? It will counteract the draw raising as much, and presumably one with a bigger wight on the end would absorb more vibrations too?

  50. And it's only placebo effect…. Superstition only….this crap will not Make you accurate…. You release on target or you do not period…. How many peeps bought this crap because everyone else had this crap…. So what are your stabilizing anyway…. Wouldn't it be better to use a bow vise and clamp that bitch to a table with heavy weights and then use a remote release like a remote camera trigger…. Maybe that will make your gold your target….. How about a defibrillator to stop your heart so that your aim dosent bump with each beat….. These keep up with the jones's crap dosent make a better score…. Only one thing will make you better perfect practice and that's that…..

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