Archery | Recurve Risers – What’s the Difference?
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Archery | Recurve Risers – What’s the Difference?

August 12, 2019

The riser is the definitive part of the
bow. Along with the limbs, this is what you refer to when you talk about your bow, and it’s more than just a big grip. It’s the central hub for every attachment
on your bow, and it can be the most costly component. The market covers both wooden and metal risers. The lower end risers cost around AU$100,
while my Win&Win InnoCXT cost around AU$830, and was the most
expensive riser on the market when I bought it. Then Hoyt released the
Formula Ion-X at over AU$900 dollars on nearly AU$1000 in
Australia with GST. Seriously! You could buy an entire
archery package for the price one of those. So, what is the difference? Wooden risers are on the lower end of the price range, costing you a AU$100-150. If you’re a casual archer this is probably what you’ll be aiming for.
The look and feel will be familiar, and the price wont kill your hip pocket. This Samick Journey costs around US$140 on Lancaster Archery for the entire bow. Many of these risers have limited
attachment options, often allowing for a sight and stabilizer
but little else. The limb pockets also tend to use
specific limbs, so you can’t freely swap them out. Metal rises are usually made of
aluminium or magnesium for the lower end, and carbon for the top-end. These bows are
designed for sport archery, and their features are optimized for performance, being sturdier and having less vibration than a wooden riser. If you’re taking up archery as a sport,
this is the sort of riser that you want to invest in. Generally speaking the most
expensive risers don’t have that much difference between
them. So again, it mostly comes down to preference and often appearance as well. The key advantage with metal takedown risers is that they almost always have universal modular attachments. So you can swap limbs, stabilizes, and
other accessories. The budget risers come up about US$100 – 200, and include brand names such as Samick, Cartel, and SF. At best they’re glorified hunks of metal in the shape of a riser. This Samick Agulla is typical of this price range. It looks cool and does the job, but
that’s about it. Cheaper risers can lack in manufacturing quality and finish. The
grip on the Agulla is actually glued on and came off after a few months. Risers like
these are usually categorized as entry-level, and their simplicity is
appropriate for beginners. However, depending on how seriously you
take the sport, you may find yourself wanting a bow with
more flexibility and features sooner rather than later. The mid-range risers will cost around
AU$300-600 dollars. These intermediate level bows have more advanced designs,
making them lighter and more stable. Risers like the Hoyt Horizon, Formula Excel, and the Win&Win Winex are solid choices, providing good performance for a moderate price. If you’re taking the sport seriously, but don’t want to spend too much money, getting one of these will probably last you a lifetime. These are especially good if you
anticipate outgrowing your bow fairly quickly, thus skipping that step, and
giving yourself the extra motivation to make your money’s worth and using it
frequently. Then there’s the top end competition level. The professionals typically use either Hoyt GMX or Win&Win InnoCXT, but in the past couple of years the release of the newer Hoyt Formula Ion-X and the Win&Win Inno AL1 has added some more options at
either end of the price range. These risers offer the best balance,
efficiency, and options for fine adjustments, such as adding weights to the riser. The manufacturers are more or less showing off their engineering here, and these riser are the choice of professionals. It’s difficult to explain the
differences without having a shot yourself. Think of it like explaining the
differences between different models of cars and motorcycles. Roughly speaking, they all do the same
thing, and it comes down to look and feel. Having shot one of these there is definitely a difference between
a high end bow and a low end bow. I feel like I felt more control of
the bow, I felt more connection, and the feedback is much more sensitive. Design
differences, such as the ergonomic shape of the grip and overall weight of the
riser, are tilt factors. The top end risers also come with protective pouches and
colorful detailed manuals. Whereas the cheaper risers come as-is, and usually
with a single sheet of instructions. Which one you get mostly depends on
preference, but there is a vital difference in how much you’re willing to
spend. How much you spend depends on how seriously you want to take the sport. A
beginner probably won’t make the most use of an expensive bow for a while, but
the potential for growth is there. On the other hand, buying a cheap bow may be a limiting factor in the way you develop as an archer. If you’re a casual Archer there’s nothing wrong with using a cheap
riser, however, if you want to take it to the competition level, be ready to fork
out over AU$500, and that’s just for the riser. As usual, I hope you
found it informative and enjoyable. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you
next time.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. I recommend the OZ hunting & bows in Oakleigh, better price and services. And I bought arrows from MAVERICK ARCHERY in Glen Waverley, saves a lot! 

  2. What I learned from this video is that by far the main difference between risers is price.  They are inert hunks of stuff that connect your hand to the limbs and accessories.

  3. Just got myself a Win & Win AL1 25" riser and the new RCX-100 limbs, no regrets they are doing extremely well (and it is probally the best looking bow)

  4. I just started shooting recurve with a Samick Sage and while I enjoy it I'm already feeling put off by the bow for some reason. I think the single aspect that bugs me the most is in fact, the riser! I'm really struggling to figure out what riser I could live with long term.

  5. Big differences between HOYT, Samick, W&W, Border, PSE, etc etc. all have a very unique feel to them, which varies from model to model. If I pick up a Formula ION-X with Quattros and then pick up a W&W INNO MAX with INNO EX POWERs I notice a huge difference in grip, draw, after shot, balance, weight, tillers, etc etc between them. even with bows of a lower quality than the ones above I can still feel a marked difference in feel.

  6. Help me with my riser pick, please. Ok, I've narrowed my decision down to two risers ( I think); W&W Winex, and the new W&W Rapido. Seems like the more I learn aboot archery, the narrower the choices (which is good). Any other models I should consider (<$450) over the above?? As you mention on your other vids, I'm going with cheap-cheap limbs til I have a better understanding of poundage… and other accessories 🙂 Thanks!

  7. How does the cxt fare with 40-up poundage? 😮 I've got a cartel fantom 25" right now, 38 lbs medium limbs. I'm looking to buy a a new riser (Such as the cxt) because I'll be amping my poundage up to 42 in the future, but a friend told me it wasn't advisable, told me that the fantom's safe poundage threshold was 36 lbs. He participating at a competition one time, with a fellow shooter with the same set up as I have, just that he was pulling 42 lbs. Midway through the competition his fantom cracked.

  8. These Olympic style recurve riser/limb combo are consider "take-down" bows?  also can you make a video on how to built/buy a recurve?

     I know you need to buy limb and riser but I don't know what else I need to buy to build a COMPLETE recurve. I know some website sells package but it would be great if there is a video that explains all the parts.

  9. Hey, NUSensi.
    I'm currently using a W&W SF Forged Plus Riser along with SF Premium Limbs. I'm quite happy about them so far, but I'm curious as to what you think of them. Are they decent enough to last me a life time, or should I invest in better ones in the future? Thanks in advance!

  10. Thanks for the videos I like them and will be recommending them to my students. As a point of clarification about risers which you seemed to have skipped over (maybe to be covered in another vid) is the limb adjustment mechanism. The look, feel and grip are  all personal preference and so not really all that important from a decision standpoint but being able to get the limbs within alignment is critical and this is the major difference between low end risers and mid-level units. Because the price difference between a riser that has adjustment and ones without is minimal I typically ask parents to go for that little extra cost and get the one that allows them to adjust the vertical limb alignment. In my opinion the cost difference between the mid level and the high end high cost risers is prestige and has very little to do with accuracy. But having confidence in your equipment seems to have a direct correlation to the reduction in wallet thickness so if archers have the money and they think the high end is worth it then the value of their confidence improvement might be justified. From my experience a measurable functionality standpoint I think it is mostly hype. When you find something that is difficult to explain it's usually because it cannot be measured or proven.

  11. Hi everyone 😀 well I am interested in the SF Premium riser and Samick vision basic limbs, are they a good combination and would this bow be a good upgrade from the Ragim Wildcat…. 😀 

  12. Hello again Sensei, I was wondering if I could effectively use SF Premium Riser and SF Axiom plus limbs if I shoot instinctively? Now, I know these are low cost pieces (I am on a tight budget), the reason I am considering them is because of ILF versatility.
    Do you think this combination would be OK for instinctive shooting? (I imagine I can just slap a hair rest on the shelf?)

  13. Nusensi, all I can say is Thank You!  Gracias!  Salamat!  You are my "Sensi" re: anytime I need an expert's advice, you are my "go too."  I have watched all your videos over and over.  My favorites are your "reflections".   I am 68 years old, live in Florida, USA.  I had a Martin 45# recurve back in my college years.  Last fall I bought a Samick Polaris 62" 36#, used by school for one class for $60.00 usd.  Added sight, single stablizer and am really happy with it.  Will keep and give to my oldest son, he loves to shoot my bows also.  Since I am retired and have 2 hectacres, rural property I have been able to set up a proper archery range and I shoot everyday, 200 ~ 300 arrows.  I am comitted and dedicated to going as far as I can competitively.  Nusensi, you have been instrumental in helping me come as far as I have already.  I shot my first self competition today, 100 arrows @ 20 m, 40m & 60m to set my personal benchmark so I can measure my performance / improvement and was very pleased with my performance.  I know for certain that I am ready to upgrade and continue as far as I can go.  This month I am purchasing the Samick Master Max 25" riser with the Samick Extreme BF limbs.  Shibuya Ultima sight.  Would you make any changes to this?  MY ULTIMATE GOAL: TO SHOOT FOR GOLD AGAINST NUSENSI IN THE 2020 WORLD CUP AT MEDELLIN & WIN! 🙂

  14. Hi,
    I get back to Archery after 24 years with my old Samick SMT7 38# and I want to get a new bow especialy with a little less pounds as it is difficult to fire those 38# yet. As I have more money (student vs worker) I can afford better parts and your video helped me A LOT to get the info needed to understand what is important and what's makes the difference for the price.
    I will go for the new W&W Wiawis riser (hopefully out mid-March) with SF Elite Carbon/Foam 34# to begin: as you said Riser is the most important part and Limb will be next but since I just begin I will probabily be able to get more # later and change them so it is useless to spend too much on them.
    I will go for the Shibuya ultimate carbon to get a real good sights that will last.
    Then a SF Velocity stabs kit to not spend too much on it and perhaps replace it later.
    Any comment on that selection?
    Anyway thanks for your usefull videos that just explain clearly the important things to know!

  15. I'm just getting interested in archery and have found your videos extremely helpful for answering a ton of questions.  Thank you.  What inexpensive ILF compatible risers should I look at (with an eye toward eventually hunting)?  I'd love to have the upgrade flexibility of ILF, but the cheap take down bows seem to use proprietary systems.  I'm leaning toward the non-ILF Samick Journey to cheaply build some draw strength and form before getting my first "real" bow, but I may bypass it for the right riser.  For example, do you have any experience with the TradTech Pinnacle II?

  16. I'm new to the sport and loved it from the very first shot. I've been surfing the web to see what would be a good bow for me to get. I've watched through nearly every video you've got now, which have been very helpful btw, and it got me thinking what kind of riser I should be aiming for in the future. For some reason I felt like I wanted a Hoyt after saving up but then I noticed how these Hoyt Formula risers don't accept other limbs but their own and are quite a bit more expensive as well. This got me a bit annoyed and now I'm considering other options.
    Not sure why Hoyt would do this. If they didn't like people fitting Win&Win limbs on their risers they should just make their limbs more affordable to people. There is probably some engineering reasoning as well but this just reminds me of Apple not wanting to play ball when it came to their charger not wanting to use the USB universal charger like everyone else.

  17. My Cartel Midas riser should be here next week. Do you think I should get SF Elite carbon  foam limbs or Samick Universal Carbons? I will be shooting a 70" on a 25" riser for a 31.5 draw length. Or do you think the SF premium+carbons are of equal quality for an intermediate archer.

  18. I have a samick smt7 can anyone tell me what limbs are compatible as it is a 34# and I would like to get some new limbs to increase the #

  19. i'm a beginer archer, i just got a beginer wooden bow set, how long do you think i should wait before upgrading to the more advanced bow set?
    which riser would you recommend for beginer?

  20. I want buy W&W RISER RAPIDO or HOYT RISER FORMULA EXCEL , Hoyt Risers HOYT RISER HORIZON 25 What is ur chouse ? can you suggest me something else but around 300 euro .

  21. NUSensei,
    Thanks for these videos – they're super helpful. Questions on selecting a quality riser: I've yet to see a bunch of medium/high level target recurve risers in one place for hands-on comparison, so do people typically just choose one based on reviews/appearance/budget and hope for the best? Are grips changeable if the original one doesn't work well? I read reviews and people comment on differences between grips, so I'd rather not spend $800 on a riser only to have the grip be funky for my hands. Can you advise on the selection process? Thanks!

  22. Since you posted this video, some manufacturers have come out with some great inexpensive risers like the SF Axiom Plus Light 25" Riser at a price of $139 at Lancaster Archery Supply. I'm just getting into Recurve after shooting compound since I was 12yr old. I don't want to break the bank just to get my feet wet, but don't want junk either. The Axiom looks like a fine riser and has some pretty good reviews. I am thinking of going with the 21" Axiom with short limbs for a hunting/target multipurpose bow. I will NOT be competing with it.

  23. Hello Nusensei your video is very helpfull..I want to ask you, i have a sf optimo riser with 68" 28# limbs and I want to change the Limbs, my question is does the SF optimo riser could compatible with another limbs from different brand??such as cartel, samick..etc, thank you

  24. I'm new to archery; the type? I have some ideas: recreational target shooting, 3D shooting, and stump shooting. Hunting? No. I would like to be able shoot 2-3 times a week.

    I'm in the budget, entry category and would prefer the Samick Journey type riser. Problem: I need 70" bow and a 33" or 34" arrow according to what a certified instructor advised me.

    That being said, I could only find the Ragim Matrix @ 70" and a Greatree Mohegan @ 68". Both have a 20# limb option which would allow me to work on my form and shoot lots of arrows until I move up to heavier poundage limbs.

    What do you know about these two companies and their products? BTW I'm 6'3" , 330 lbs. with a arm span of 77.25".

    I welcome you comments and insights. As always, thanks for doing what you do for us archers of all levels and interests.

  25. Well done for all your videos, I'm new to archery but my instructors think I've got "potential". I want to buy a RCX 100 riser and limbs by Win & Win what do you think of those?

  26. Hi,

    I have a bow I bought a long time ago, it is 22lbs Rolan, I wanted to change it. the bow is marked up as 62 inch and 1.55m, It reaches from the floor to the tip of the bottom on my nose unstrung.

    My question is if I put a 25inch rise on a 66 would it end up too tall, that is how they measured me for a bow in the club I shot at?

    My draw is about 30 inchs so at 22lbs it would be 24 or 26lbs.

  27. I've bought a sf archery axiom + riser,I thought that it is better to buy a low-end aluminium bow because I shooting so About a month.Did I make the right choice ?

  28. Is it advisable for an adult to get a 23" riser. I have found an SF forged+ riser bow package within my budget, but I have heard of difficulty with the sight window, or the sight is obscured by the riser. My draw length is around 27.5" (rough estimate). Thanks in advance.

  29. Hi NUS, do you think 25'' RH Hoyt GMX is overkill for a newbie? I saw a use 1 or should I buy the SF Forge + riser. thanks.

  30. hello NuSensei, i got a question for you about the material used for the riser. do you already try an aluminium magnesium alloy riser? just asking because i never heard one before until few days ago. so i was wandering if it can perform almost similarly with the standard win&win or hoyt aluminium riser in terms of performance, dampening the vibration and. tq 🙂

  31. Hi, the video was really informative, but I have one question for you. I've been planning to buy a new bow to replace my entry leveled setup, but I can't seem to decide what riser to purchase. The two choices I have in mind are the SF Forged+ and the W&W Winex. I usually have a knack for heavy risers, but the Forged+ has gotten so many good reviews despite the fact that it's designed for entry to intermediate leveled archers. What riser would you recommend?

  32. As I can find only Hoyt has risers with strut. Is it patented and because only they can produce riser with strut?

  33. Hi! I'm from Argentina, i like your videos very much! They helped me a lot getting started. I want to ask you something. What's your impression on the Kaya K3 carbon riser? Do you know if it is ILF compatible? I'm thinking of build a mid level bow, and my options are: K3 carbon or SF Forged+ , both with SF Elite carbon foam limbs. Do you know if i can fit those sf limbs into the kaya riser? I'll buy them online, so i can't try them. Thanks a lot for your time, and can you do a video about consistency training? Thanks again!!!

  34. Hi NUSensei,
    I watched all your videos and they are extremely helpful! Thanks for making these vedios!
    I got a question though: I'm considering upgrade my target bow with a budget around $500 us dollars, after some research i come to winex, winact vt, rcx100 and inno al1.
    winex and winact vt are a bit "traditional" but rcx100 really caught my eyes, i really love its design but its reviews are suspiciously sporadic…
    inno al1 is a bit over budget but if its really worth the price tag i can go for it.
    can you please give me some advice for these risers?
    Many thanks in advance!

  35. Thanks for your videos. They are all really informative and quite fun to watch. For this topic, would you know how the Gillo G1L riser compares to, say, a W&W Inno CXT?

  36. what do you think of the cartel phantom? I plan pretty much on recreational shooting and the odd club shoot

  37. Hey. im looking to get a solid left handed riser between $200-450 that has some flexibility in limb selection. what are some of your suggestions on risers to look into?

  38. What would you recommend for someone that has shot for 3 years, but wants to switch to target archery from barebow. Price range about 300 but not much more for the riser. I do need growing options, quality finish (don't want things breaking down) and fine tuning. Any suggestions from NU/viewers much appreciated

  39. I just grabbed a Core riser from Merlin, I has bolts for the limb attachment and thats it, does that mean no tiller adjustment?

  40. Another great video! I would welcome your views on my current issue..I have just picked up a 25" W&W Inno Max riser to go with my 34# Long W&W Ex Power limbs, but due to a long draw of 32" I need to drop the weight slightly – How many turns do you think I could safely let the tiller bolts out to lighten the weight but still keep the bow working well? W&W seem pretty vague on this subject..! Thanks, Dan.

  41. Hello NU先生, I was wondering if you can make a video on international flights with archery equipment- how to transport them safely and restrictions. I live in China and I want to get into archery, yet I know I will move back to the US next year. I'd like to know which stuff not to invest into should there be any problems transporting equipment along with 10 years of accumulated stuff from living abroad.

  42. Do you have any experience with the hoyt horizon pro and the SF forged +. Im planning on buying one of them and i want something that will last me a couple of years. I am going to go to one of the only archery stores in Sweden to try holding them but i will most likely not be able to shoot them since the store has no shooting range. So what do you think of these risers. I need something between high end and low end. The archery store only stocks hoyt win and win and SF and only some of the risers so im limited by that. Also archery stuff costs a LOT in Sweden :). I cant really decide which one would be best so im hoping for some help.

  43. What is the best riser to defend myself from the Zombie Apocalypse? Can you recommend anything mean ass looking and in stupidly bright colours?

  44. Thanks so much for all your videos- they're great. I took up archery a year ago and I've watched so many. I just upgraded my riser from a Hoyt Horizon to a Gillo G1, and I absolutely love it. So much more solid- as you say it is really difficult to explain the difference. If you ever see a G1 do shoot it- I'd be interested to hear how you feel it compares to your own.

  45. Started and still using the SF Axiom+ light, 25" (70" bow) great riser as a starter, next riser, after much consideration will be a Win&Win Winact VT, the one I really want, the Inno AXT is out of my reach price wise, but one day. I did look at Hoyt Formula but was put off by the Formula limb system, you're tied to Hoyt limbs, ILF fitting risers give you a greater range of limb choice.

  46. Hey NU thanks for putting all the time and effort into your vids – really appreciate it. I'm on my second riser now (SF forged +) and really like the look of the INNO CXT but….25" or 27" with my 31" draw length? I'd be thankful of any advice, cheers. Kerry

  47. i just stepped up from a samick riser to a hoyt. although it is nicer to shoot my points average is still the same basicly. these modern lower end risers are well made but as you say, lack finish quality and adjustments the high end riser have. shot the samick for 3 years and passed on to my son who will probably use it for quite a while.

  48. NUSensei,I have an old, ancient Hoyt Radian riser. I intend to buy Kinetic Halo. It's cheap,but for more quality I do not have money. What do you think, whether it is worth the $ 100? Sorry for my bad English.

  49. HI,
    beginner archer here. I have been going to a practice range and using the loaner equipment. but find that the equipment is making me shoot inconsistently and requires too much of my practice time adjusting the sight. So I'm looking for an affordable recurve bow that I can upgrade parts as time goes on. I've seen full bows (riser, limbs and sights) made by Junxing. they actually look really nice and are affordable but i can't seem to find any reviews on this brand of bow. I know they are made in china and sometimes china manufactured products are crap but lots are not. Junxing Bows are sometimes marketed at IRQ, Toparchery or SAS. for the price, I'm willing to take a shot (no pun intended). Anyone have any experience or opinions? Here is a amazon link to one.

  50. Hi! Thanks for the great video! I'm a newbie. have a choice between SF Archery Premium Plus 25 recurve and Win&Win Rapido 25. Which would you recommend? Thank you.

  51. Your videos are very informative and provide balanced point of view. As a complete novice getting into archery I found a wealth of information through your various videos an I thank you for it. You also cover wide range of topics and I really like that as well. Cheers!

  52. I am fixing to get an Olympic recurve bow. No limits on money. Which riser would you go with a Hoyt or win & win?

  53. Hey NUSensei,

    What do you think about the Cartel Triple Riser that's made from plastic?

    People have tried it with the sage limbs and say that it's lighter than wooden risers and there's less shock.

  54. Hello! I'm new to archery and would really like to know, if the SF Axiom Plus Lite is the right riser for a beginner. Greetings

  55. Is there any real difference between a 23" riser w/ med limbs vs 25" riser with short limbs for a younger girl?

  56. Is there a mid to high range SF riser that will last me for a couple years in competetive shooting you'd recommend?

    I just got the SF Elite limbs, 40# but I'm dissatisfied with my SF Premium riser for the reason it might start bending over time. Also, it won't offer enough stability to support 40#.
    At least that's what some more experienced archers told me.

    I was looking at the SF Elite/ Velocity riser.

  57. I'm a 6'4" adult male beginner to archery. I live is the US. My draw length is 31" which suggests a 70-72" bow. where can I find a beginner recurve bow between 22-28 lbs?

  58. What difference do all these expensive limbs and risers make to your accuracy? Say you buy a carbon riser and limbs for £1000 against a metal alloy riser with fibre limbs for around £200. Can a pro hit the same accuracy or does it make alot of difference?.

  59. It was fun to go the route from super cheap Chinesium bow, then get a Fleetwood wood riser, then onto a rather heavy Cartel riser, over to a lighter Galaxy riser, and seeing the differences in cheaper limbs up to the $300 Hoyt limbs I have now. And also swapping out the cheap arrows for some good 400-500 carbon arrows. Made a huuuuuuge difference. Recently added some weight to balance the bow better, and its also noticeably different. Love your videos! Happy shooting everyone.

  60. Once again, a great video! Thanks for answering my questions. I love your face after the $990 riser lol, my daughter and I watched it 3 times and kept laughing, it's exactly how I feel when I look at them lol

  61. Hi. I want to buy my first bow. I hv do some research and already choose Takedown Recurve Bow as my first bow.

    I hv some qs, should i buy Recurve Bow with ILF Riser or not? Is the ILF Riser significant useful to me as a beginner archers?

    For non ILF Riser bow set is under my budget, meanwhile ILF riser bow set is exceed my budget. However, I don't want to waste my money on non ILF Riser bow set "IF" ILF Riser bow set is useful to me as beginner.

    OR, should i just buy the non ILF since it is my first bow, then consider ILF set for second bow in future?

    My purpose for now, just as backyard shooter for fun but also want to develop my archery skill for future since i feel interest in this sport.

  62. Sir Good Morning, I need some guidance from you , my kid was 2 and half year old, how should I start my kid for archery , can u pls guide me

  63. NUSensei, thank you for a lot of good information about archery. However I am finding it diffucult to choose my first bow. I have been shooting for a few months with the standard wooden club bow. This is ok, but my bow is not always availible and some times the set up is wrong, so I have been looking for an alternative. Money is not an issue, but I do find it interesting to get good equipment cheap. This video and your video of equipment at Rio 2016, highlight something that I feel have not been covered well before and might be an ide for a new video. The high end gear 2011 – 2013 is old equipment at the Rio 2016 Olympics, but archers still use the Hoyt GMX, the Prodigy RX, W&W CXT/AXT etc. Now, three years later, these and other 'expired' risers are availible relatively cheap. So how do used Hoyt GMX, the Prodigy RX an W&W CXT/AXT or even Fivics Titan Plus (or newer expired top end risers) compare to new intermediate risers like Kaya K3, SF Forged, Topoint Unison, winners forced elite etc. Since I am a beginner limbs will be exchanged going forward anyway, but maybe I could get a riser and sight (maybe stabilisers) that might last forwever? How do old topend compare with new intermediate? And yes, I am interested in shooting Olympig Recurve as compound do not appeal to me and struggle with finding reference points for barebow sighting. Thx

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