Archery | Online Impulse Buying
Articles Blog

Archery | Online Impulse Buying

August 12, 2019

How to buy your first archery kit online in two easy steps. 1) Go to Amazon and buy a Samick Sage. 2) Go on eBay and buy fiberglass arrows. Surely it can’t be that easy? Well, actually it can be, but there are
several traps you can fall into if you jump straight into archery like this.
Depending on your mileage this can either be a surprisingly simple
way to get into archery or the worst way you could possibly go at it. The thing of archery is that it’s actually
really easy and really cheap to get into, especially if you’re looking at budget-priced products. There are many budget brands out there
which are specifically marketed towards the inexperienced impulse buyer, and casual
shoppers typically don’t look for archery stores. Instead they go for sites like
Amazon and eBay. Because of this shopping habit, numerous sellers flood the market
with the cheapest priced equipment that a new archer needs.
This isn’t actually a bad thing. Many people start off with simple
recurve bows like the PSE Snake or something a bit fancier like the Samick Sage,
and there’s a lot of appeal to a bow like a Samick Sage. It looks nice, it functions well,
and they’re really affordable. On the compound side, you often
come across brand names like Atunga and Apex which provide simple,
functioning bows for a very low price. For the most part I’m not going to
disparage these bows, but, with some exceptions, you get what you pay for. Getting cheap bows
will offer a more limited experience and this may cloud your initial impression
of archery. The problem is when you start buying cheap arrows.
The common mentality is to find the cheapest possible arrows, for
two reasons: Firstly, you don’t invest as much into the sport just in case you don’t like it so it’s not as big loss. Secondly, you know you’ll break arrows.
You know you’ll lose arrows, so you’re tempted to buy cheap arrows, and you replace your
arrows with cheap arrows. This is problematic because arrows have
to be matched for your bow When you go on eBay, and you buy a set of 20 cheap fiberglass arrows, what you’re buying is a generic shaft
that is not rated specifically for your bow. While this isn’t dangerous, in all
likelihood the arrows will not fly very well. Most generic arrows are far too stiff for
a typical recurve bow, although with some compound bows, you’re
probably more likely to handle them a bit better. If your arrow is not “spined” correctly for your bow you will be frustrated when you realize
that your arrows flop around as if you’re shooting a crooked stick. The right way
to purchase arrows is to look up arrow selection charts. You need to know your draw length, your
draw weight, and usually the weight of the point. This gives you a spine rating which
you can then use to match up with the correct arrow shaft for your bow. Once you know what you’re looking for,
this gives you a much better match to your bow, and believe me, you will notice a
huge difference when you’re shooting. Also consider buying from archery stores
rather than Amazon or eBay. Archery stores not only have the experience in dealing with
new archers and setting up equipment, they have the parts you need. They will have numerous arrow shafts of all
the spine ratings, and if they don’t have it they can order it in. It’s much better and easier if you go
through archery stores and suppliers instead of blindly buying cheap parts
and arrows. I’ve noted several times in the past that archery stores typically
don’t stock the brands that you find as budget buys online. Additionally if you buy a budget compound bow, it’s very likely that it’s not set up to
be shot. Many compound packages come with a finger tab and no nocking point.
Most compound shooters will use a release aid, so you need to put a D-loop on, buy a release
aid, and so on. You need to make sure the cams are synchronized,
you need to get the draw length set just for you, and so on. Now, if you have no archery experience,
and you did a blind buy, you’re probably going to have to take it to a pro shop
anyway to get it set up. This is one of the frustrations that
clubs go through, and many clubs release memos and buying guides that, to
put it bluntly, tell people not to buy bows until they have consulted with the
club. Now, this isn’t because clubs are elitist and they want to dictate what you buy, it’s because so many people buy the wrong equipment. One of our recent visitors bought a
70 pound compound bow. That is *way* too strong, especially for a first
timer. Now, even though it’s a compound, it’s just way too heavy for someone who’s
never done archery before. Additionally, it is against the rules for a
target club to allow a 60-pound compound or above. Now, since he had no experience,
he was advised to learn on a recurve bow first, so he went out and
bought this beautiful traditional bow, but it was 50 pounds, which is still very
heavy for a recurve. It’s not something you can learn with. I felt bad
telling him that he should be learning on 20 pound club bows, but, look, clubs
and instructors know that downward spiral. Beginners with overpowered bows tend to
be overconfident. They risk injury. They find it very hard to hold the bow’s draw
weight, and they generally don’t shoot for long before getting really tired.
These factors make it nearly impossible for them to learn how to shoot properly. What you then have is, effectively, a bow, or several bows, that you can’t actually use.
The most common piece of advice given is to try archery at a club first. Now, I know a lot of people don’t have access to a club, however, please bear in mind that archery isn’t just something you pick up and do right away. It’s not a hard sport to get into, but
it does involve fine motor skills, proper technique, and proper form.
The ultimate trap with impulse buys is that it’s very hard
to unlearn bad habits with bad equipment. A lot of people who get into archery on a
whim and buy the budget bows will spend hours, weeks, months of shooting, but
they have no training and have alarmingly dangerous technique sometimes.
The are people I’ve come across who are considered to be “accidents waiting to
happen.” It’s usually the compound shooters who are most at risk. This is because recurve beginners usually
know their limits, but compound beginners are often taken away by the power and
precision of their bow. Just the other day I came across someone
who was using our club targets, and apparently he’s been doing it for eight
months, and it’s the first time we’ve seen him. He was a pretty decent bloke unlike most others who abuse our club grounds, but as a lot of beginners, he had no
idea what he was doing, and he was never taught. So, he was a compund shooter, and
at his first shot we knew exactly what is level was. He had all the bad habits
of a shooter that’s never been trained. He had a very high, very tense shoulder. He was hunched over trying to get his head on the
peep sight, that death-grip on the bow. It looked disastrous. I’m surprised he hasn’t been injured yet.
Now, in good faith, I tried to show him better form, but I’ll tell you this. I’ve
never taught someone who had so much tension in their body. No matter what I
tried, I could not get him to relax the shoulder. Every time he pull the bow bac,k it was always up. It was always forward, I
could not move that shoulder. Even putting a bit of pressure on the shoulder to help him
relax it, it was like pushing on concrete. Now this is someone who’s been shooting
like this for nearly a year. He obviously had no one to show him.
It’s really, really hard to unlearn these habits. In the end, what you do with your archery is
up to you, but there are a few tips for those who are thinking about the
independent online pathway. Do your research. Ask around. Go to
archery clubs. Go to online archery forums. Look at reviews. At least get an
idea of what a beginner will be comfortable in using and enjoying.
You’ll find there are a few bows that many beginners are happy to choose from. At the very least, don’t buy blind.
Look for something that is specific for your needs. Invest in some decent arrows that
are matched for your bow instead of getting dozens of cheap Chinese fiberglass
arrows. Buy your equipment from archery stores instead of Amazon or eBay.
If you don’t buy from an archery store, you’re pretty much on your own. You can bring your
equipment to a store, and get it set up, but don’t assume that the equipment you
buy is in proper shooting condition. Do make an effort to learn how to shoot, whether
it’s through a club or coach or video tutorials online. Don’t assume that you can just pick
up a bow and pull it back. Not only will your archery experience be unfulfilling, you risk injuries they can end your interest in archery. I’m not saying this because I’m an elitist snob. So many people with no training and no
experience turn up with brand new budget bows, and they don’t come back and never use it. It doesn’t feel nice when you have to tell
people to put their brand new bow away because they can’t use it. Seriously, we get people who have never done
archery before turn up for the first time with an Apex compound bow, still in the plastic wrapping, and they
don’t even know what to ask us. They don’t know why they bought the bow. The biggest mistake is to assume that
you need a bow to experience archery, and you don’t. You can save the
money and experience archery through a club by using their “come and try” program,
their beginner program, or whatever they call it, for a fraction of the price of a bow. I occasionally get emails from
agencies that deal with refugees and asylum seekers, and I get this really heart breaking story about how this family fled their country, and they moved
to Australia. They’re trying to find work and find income,
and their child goes to school. Their child goes to a camp, they try archery there, they really really
enjoy it. So the parents buy them a bow, and now the agency is trying to find a
place for them to get a discounted membership and to be part of the team. I don’t want to say no,
but they didn’t have to buy the bow. That’s the worst thing. They could have
just saved the money. They could have gone to a club first and said
“look, my child likes archery, what can I do?” We would say
“spend $20 on a come-and-try session, and you can all the fun you would have wanted.” You didn’t have to spend hundreds of
dollars on bow equipment. Whatever the case, buy wisely and shoot safely. This is NUSensei. I hope you found this helpful,
and I’ll see you next time

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Love the videos, but could you stand still or sit. I find I need to listen your videos rather than watch as I get distracted by the constant movement. Either way, I enjoy the content and be a continued subscriber.

  2. Everything is really true, but same applies to shops….
    in breaf i went to try archery at club (2 times), desided i like it, went to shop, bought bow like samick (28lbs) and arrows shop assistant told aluminium will be ok for start (spine was 1900 or smth like that). They were really ok but they broke easily (after 2-3 hours almost all arrows were not straight) , so i decided to buy new ones but no aluminium as i was in other part of town i visited other shop and asked for arrows for 28lbs bow – what i've got were easton carbon arrows BUT 360 spine…. it was like shooting wooden logs (now they are waiting when i will buy something around 65lbs) instructor in club explained me what spine i need and i bought new ones that suit perfect.

    The fun thing a week after buying correct arrows i saw a guy in the club who got 65lbs compound for birthday from friends (he never shoot before, and told he is ok without instructor) he had like 40 arrows (5-10 of the same type) to try out which are better among them he had exactly the same aluminium arrows i started with, needles to say that this arrow didnt survive first shot and instructor decided to explain him which he needs

  3. My local bow shop seems to know nothing about recurve. I had already done some research but I hadn't learned quite enough to protect my investment: I bought six 2315 Eclipses for my OMP Mountaineer's first set of limbs (50#) and the shop totally botched the tune; those would have been great for some heavy Simmons broadheads. I realized 50# was too much to start with so I got 40# limbs and went to the shop for new arrows. They threw me 32" 2016 Legacys with 100 gr heads; that spine was way too weak and lighter heads would have made for horrible FOC. I was drawing those to full length, though, so I figured out all the variables for 3Rivers dynamic spine calculator and went with full length 2020 Legacys; I can use 125 grain judo and bullet points but they are perfectly tuned with 135 gr. Eskilites. I also got an EZ Fletch, which is great once you get the hang of it.

  4. As you said NuSensei, we do buy things impulsively. I bought mine semi-impulsively, although, I did have experience in the past in archery to know what to look for. After my two decades break from archery hunting, wife wanted to go hunting with a bow and arrows. I purchased her the Diamond Infinite Edge package. It's not only for her, but it was also for the entire family of 4, as well as guests that may want to try out archery. Surely enough, the $$$ investment was a blazing success.

    As you have well institute the methodology of archery paths for beginner, go to the club/range and get the feel for the archery equipment before purchase. When you're ready, go to a pro shop that will offer the proper line up of equipment, ONLY after you've done extensive researches online. It took me a good 6 months of researches and asking those who have the equipment about their experiences before I made my decisions. When you truly believe you're going to stick with the sport, rather than purchasing a cheap bow, try to invest in a bow that will last, with as many adaptable potential as possible for a growing archer, or archers, even if you have to put out a pretty penny.

    Once again NuSensei, great job with your videos. I enjoyed your videos wholeheartedly. A rustic archer like me still learns quite a few new things from an elite archer like you.

  5. The how-long-do-I-keep-renting decision is complicated (economically).  The longer you rent, the better you understand what you want and need, but then again, renting is expensive and takes away from the money you could have spent on better equipment.

    I rented about 4 times which cost $100 USD.  I didn't want to keep paying that so I allowed myself to be talked into a compound bow.  But just 2 months later, I realized that recurve was what I really wanted, so I bought one of those too.  I suppose one way to look at it is that I could just sell my relatively new compound and figure that I still saved some money over renting, even if I have to sell the compound at half price.

    Any suggestions on where / how to sell?

  6. As the bow technician at Apex I thank you sincerely for making this video! Hahah. I'm oh so tired of people buying equipment online without making any effort to think about what they are buying and if it will suit them. I don't deal with any online work, just customers in store amd I make sure every customer that buys a bow, leaves with acceptable form and a well fitted bow. I see all too often people who return bows they purchased online which they've broken or can't pull back and blame the equipment. Even though we provide suggestions on our website as to what bow they should be using and how to set it up, many buyers are too ignorant to even bother and believe they can just go and shoot. If it was up to me I wouldn't sell bows online, just equipment and parts. But hey, someone has to make money somehow. All in all great vid and I hope alot of new archers see this.
    Cheers, lachlan.
    Ps. Are you competing at all this year?

  7. Nusensei you´re absolutely right. I want to start compound shooting and my idea was to buy a Hoyt PodiumX and X10´s.
    But I think I´m gonna take my friends advice and get something more apropriate (and cheap) to get started. Thanks for this video.

  8. I love your videos man. You're a true guru 🙂 at the same time though, it's not too bad to buy online, as long as you do some research. 😀

  9. I got into archery after being out for years and never having had any training outside of Boy Scout camp 40 years ago.

    I did my research, asked questions, and selected the equipment which I then bought online.

    I saved hundreds over what a store would have charged me.

    But, I screwed up.

    I was told a 28lb bow was fine for my purposes, but I'm a smart guy so I bought a heavier bow.

    Took me weeks to build up the strength to manage the bow, which was time wasted on the range.  If I had been smart I would have started out with rented gear to figure out what would work for me, first.

    Best 100$ I spent was on lessons, which improved my form.

  10. Go to a club and learn the basic's. I have only attended 6 club shoot's and have already qualified at the 20 metre range ! how ? with a little coaching and some handy pointers from the experienced club members. And by not starting out with a too powerful bow
    Go to a proper archery shop to buy your bow's and arrow's ! if you can not walk in to a shop find a good one on line, my personal checker is to see what they stock in olympic style recurve bow's, shop's that sell these will have the good brands. I have been looking at on line store's, on amazon and on eBay for about 4 months now and there is a lot of cheap crappy gear out there and buying a top of the line bow first time out is not going to make you a better archer either. When you are starting out a 20lb club bow will put arrow's on the target just as good as a 70lb compound with all the bell's and whistles.
    Finally do your home work before you buy, shop's are there to take your $$$ and you really have no one to blame but yourself if you end up making a stupid purchase.

  11. Good videos mate, but I can't help thinking that you took off your trousers to make the vid, and I don't know that I feel good about another man talking to me in his pants! ; )

  12. Thank you for making all these videos. Definitely 5 star content. Keep it up. I'm no archer but figured i had better be one in case apocalypse comes along and I've run out of ammo and shotgun shells. Now i'll go look for a beginner bow. (there are no clubs where i live. ) cheers from NZ.

  13. hey NUSensei , thanks for another great video , i have recently done a come and try session at my local club and i am now booked in for the beginners coarse , thanks for all your videos they are a great help and great for someone like myself who is new to the sport. Do you think the following sounds strange??? i think after i have done the beginners coarse and i want to get more into the sport i was thinking of spending the bulk of my "starting out" money on a decent recurve riser ( say $300ish ) so as to be able to get the better components later on and start off with cheaper limbs , arrows, sights etc.. Will people @ the club think im wankerish for doing this? or is it frowned apon to do it this way? any advice would be great. thanks mate and keep up the awesome videos!!

  14. hi now i saw that you already made a vid of Samick sage i was wondering you have many bows with wich you make videos do you perhaps sell any?

  15. Looking into buying a recurve bow, and your videos help a bunch, thanks! This is actually the 10th or something I've watched so far 😀
    Also, thumbs up for the tweetybird on the door 🙂

  16. Thank you nu sensei for your videos. I am new to archery and have been using many of your videos as well as reading through articles, reviews and forums well into the wee hours when any normal person would be sleeping

    So its bow time.
    And the options are overwhelming

    That is until I type in "recurve under $500"
    That limits the options a good deal

    Then I punch in my "draw length" and my light newb "draw weight."
    That brings the options to a manageable number

    But then I use the magical words
    "left handed"

    Suddenly there is only one option in the entire world.
    The Samick Sage

    I see why everyone recommends it now.
    Anyone who is a left handed archer
    Is kind of stuck with it

    Is there a reason why most manufacturers do not make left handed bows at lighter draw weights?
    Am I that rare of a consumer

    I apologize for the long post I admit I may just be venting frustrations here

  17. the only archery shop where I live doesn't even have recurve bows on there website they only have compound bows and I'm not into that stuff so I have no choice but to buy online

  18. Forget fiberglass arrows. Just buy some good quality aluminum arrows. They'll be cheaper than the fiberglass, and made with more consistency.

  19. i am trying to transition from a wooden bow to an aluminium one, i was using a sight, a clicker, a stabilizer, a plunger, basically the full package of an Olympic target bow on a wooden one, i am scared of buying a new bow because my budget isn't that great. is ASD electrocution any good?

  20. I am new to archery and I did about 2 weeks of research online for both the bow and the arrows. I ended up buying a Bear Instinct (2007) @ 65Lb and 30 draw. My arms are long and I used @ 2117 Alum arrows with 100oz heads for target and they work great. I also bought for 300 spine carbon arrows for hunting.

    I love the bow and I got a great deal with a full used setup on ebay. Since it was used and had the same draw length that I use, I was not surprised that I was hitting 4 inch groups on my first try. This was also probably because I shoot firearms so I am somewhat familiar with aiming down a sight. I love your videos.

  21. I've very recently gotten into Archery. As in, I've been thinking about giving it a try and went to a range for the first time today! I had a blast and I want to continue to take it up as a hobbie and find a club or something so I can use my own equipment. I stumbled onto your vids and I thought they're really great – funny and informative. Your vids specifically on buying equipment (like this one) are really helpful for someone without much idea of what they're doing, and want to ease into the sport. I'll probably continue to use equipment provided by ranges for the time being until I choose to commit.

    So thanks, keep up the good work!

  22. Are you a coach? as you have a gift for explaining things in a way that is easy to understand and gives off an air of knowledge that a lot of "experts" struggle to explain in plane language.
    I am a qualified coach and use your videos quite a lot as reference material for my improvers and beginners alike…


  23. is it ok that im buying an apex blizzard pro set, it comes with everything, release aid, whisker biscut, sight, arm guard, quiver and stabilizer, is this ok?

  24. thank you for your video nu Sensei, It really useful to me,, Wanna focused on archery and teach it to my student

  25. In Colombia it's very difficult to find a bow. Amazon doesn't send archery equipment to the country, there are no archery stores (at least not for beginers) and the few ones that exist, are very expensive.

    If someone knows where I could get a bow, I would realy apreciate it.

  26. Hi NUSensei.
    It might be that there is a potential chance that the target viewer, of an instructional video aimed at exactly them, may NOT
    view it first?! I wish & hope that they would view THIS instructional video before buying what you've warned about in here!
    Nevertheless, on the off chance it gets watched and it helps your target veiwer, I am greatful it reamains here as a source. 🙂

  27. I just bought a bow a Howatt Super Diablo 60"/60# -28in ,it comes with a 54" strim do you think that`s the right long,what do you think.,and what size of arrow should I use ….

  28. I'm 12 and thinking about buying a samick sage—I am switching from a compound anf I wanted to know what draw weight should I get…30 or 35

  29. Any question I might have had or still have about archery, you answered it. Kudos for being a good source of information!

  30. I recommend consulting with an experienced club member or some other experienced archer. I thought I covered all the bases and did all the research when buying my equipment but it turned out when I brought my equipment to the club a experienced archer at the club pointed out that the arrows I bought were not suited to be used with a whisker biscuit arrow rest because the vanes were too soft and I didn't even consider that.

  31. Very nice video. I impulse brought my bow (samick sage, of course) without doing any research first and got it in 55 lb assuming a 22 year old fairly well built male could draw but it was absolutely crippling to learn with. I have since dropped it down to 40 lb and replaced my 10 for 18 dollar fibreglass arrows for some quality hand made and it is running a lot smoother.

  32. hey nusensei about slap guards no offence but I don't use one just because i have slapped my self once in all the years I have been shooting and that one time was good enough for me after that i learned and now i don't use one and never seem to hit but your advice is great info for the new archer love what you are doing keep it up.

  33. Would it be alright to buy a arm guard or a glove online, I am new to archery and I am not sure if I should buy that kind of stuff online. I love your videos by the way!

  34. Now since you didn't mention any archery specialized stores I am forced to ask you which particular ones should I use?

  35. Is a Barnett h20 on Amazon or leader accessories bow? I will be hunting, bowfishing and Target shooting with these

  36. One of my local clubs offers 6 months of free shooting when you buy a bow setup by them including basic beginner bows. I bought a PSE Nighthawk at #35 and my wife a PSE Razorback at #25. I went in there like a tough guy going yeah I'm looking for a 40# or 45# bow and it was my first purchase. The 35# was the right decision. I can shoot hours on it with only a mild soreness developing after 4 hours on a Saturday.

    The pro-shop has a workshop on site so any issues with my bow I bring to them and they handle it for me. Best investment I ever made even if it was $30.00 over Amazon prices the service and the 6 months of shooting make it worth it.

  37. Thanks for the advice, NuSensei. There's one problem, however. I can only order equipment from online because there are no archery stores in my country. There is one club in my country but they only have PVC bows(the draw weights vary for each bow) and hand-made arrows(the official members, I believe, ordered their own bows and arrows online as well, beautiful recurves.) HELP!

  38. I recently purchased two bows for my partner, and I. They were Samick TigerShark (Gen 3 Sage) recurve bows, on sale from the only buyer on Amazon that shipped internationally from the US. They were cheaper than what the Sage sells for in some stores in AU. They also shipped the bows with two sets of strings each. I purchased a 20#, and 45#. I can draw the 29# with some effort (I'm a big guy in poor shape). I intend to keep using the 29# to begin, and pick up the 45# sometimes until I am used to it. Arrows I chose were Easton Powerflight 400, with 85gr tips. My next arrow shafts will be 340, as they are better suited to the 45#, because the 29# belongs to my partner, and she's turned it into a purple bow, with purple limb decals, purple magnetic arrow rest, purple Easton Deluxe arrow quiver, she even just bought a purple cotton polo shirt. I encourage her to be proud of her new sport, which she claims to have liked for a some time. I realize if we are both shooting, I may need to buy a second set of 29# limbs just for target fun, but I did buy the TigerShark draw weights for future reasons, and you can't buy TigerShark limbs in AU. I'm happy to put Spyder, or Sage limbs on my riser, same thing. I do want to fletch all my own custom arrows, and already have a field kit put together. Yes, it costs hundreds of dollars, but it's acomplishment, and enjoyment toward a recreational sport I know we'll love. I've only ever visited a club twice. Once to talk about membership, and once to clean up a plastic environmental disaster from butts that got flooded through the bush. I've learn't a lot from your videos David, and have read, and applied some other online material. My next bow will likely be a 50# Bear Takedown 64" to better match my draw length. I saw one review of a Bear Kodiak, where the man had a 29.5" draw length, and I'd say he tried his best to tune the brace height, but the bow was still noisy due to the limbs extending beyond verticle at his draw length, which dows see the string form a large open 'V' that slaps the limb uopn release. In this light, and in my mind, having a better matched bow height may not be such a bad idea. I also find 62" to be ok for me too. Just some thoughts seeing as I watched your other video regarding this. Anyway, my point being is blind buys on the internet aren't always a failure. I think I've done really well, and bought with confidence they will be used well. I will join the local club, right after I have equipped ourselves, and learn't some bad techniques, and form, all by what I see on the web, but do need an experience teacher to see my mistakes and correct them. For now, I have no choice but to practice in the bush, on makeshift targets, until I can afford the family rate club fees.

  39. I just bought the cheapest compound i could find 2 years ago and i am still really satisfied, true 55 pound took some getting used to and I still have no d-loop or nockingpoint but im just shooting for the fun of it, not to consistently hit targets in a club, so while your advise is very good for people who want to shoot in clubs and want to be good at shooting, if someone just wants to do some backyard shooting they can easily get away with cheap impulse buying. By the way I love your Videos even if most don't apply to what I do.

  40. Thanks for the great videos
    I was wondering if things like arrow points and broadheads are things that you can buy on impulse,because they just need to be screwed into the inserts and not really "set up" in any way.

  41. Have always been a bit interested in archery, but never took the step. Recently started watching your vids. Great fun and enjoying them. But there aren't any clubs around where I live and the more I watch, the more it sounds like I shouldn't start without being able to do it right, and those resources aren't around here. Oh well, at least I found out before I bought a bunch of equipment.

  42. This sounds like rtf rc helies, rtf only means that you have everything you need. It's not SETUP to fly right out of the box! Same with bows.

  43. I bought an eBay Mongolian wooden bow and arrow kit and is 50lbs. Is great for a beginner they are not that cheap. $150 and up for the good eBay Mongolian kits. Once you retire this beginners stage you can decide if you like archery or let it go because this art is not for everybody like anything else. I think is a good start because the true archer will seek a better bow and arrow after this experience like I did. Unfortunately many archery stores try to up sell you to Compound and or fiberglass and now the new material bow’s

  44. I thought this was about the other type of impulse buying… Where I cant stop spending money on LancasterArchery buying shit I really dont need… I NEED IMPULSE CONTROL

  45. 100% agree with this. I have loads of crap arrows from online that frustrate me with the inconsistent results. I found a great archery shop and went in and spoke to them and they prescribed the perfect arrows for my bow and my draw length. My arrows for my 60lb recurve cost me £7.50 each and my 50lb recurve £11each. The quality is excellent and the advise is priceless. 12 arrows bought online that aren't tuned for your bow might be £40+ of almost useless arrows. Or, you can buy the correct arrows tuned for you and your bow for about the same cost and instantly run out of excuses when you don't hit the 10. Now its all down to technique.

  46. I didn’t finish watching the vid but I can tell you’re trying to engage the viewer and I can tell your word is trust worthy ??

  47. Thanks to your and other's excellent archery vids, I don't feel I've embarked on archery uninformed. There are clubs in my area, but I'm not at all interested in the club experience. I have a nice backyard with a very well-protected and safe shooting space. Also, if I've developed poor technique, at least they are my own personal flaws and not somebody else's. In the end, I'm happy with my archery experience so far. and I haven't had to spend a moment on the city streets and freeways burning up gas and wasting time getting to a club. As always, your advice is very much appreciated.

  48. I am sorry…in my country some archery store only need profit. The seller not have knowledge.

    Last day i have seen a beginer child have buy a bow in 40 lbs…

    May be…our country store archery have small knowladge and our son is very strong..

  49. I would have loved to go to an archery store in order to help me get into archery… sadly there isn't one for 200km around me, and most online archery stores don't ship to Canadian PO boxes, so amazon was my only option for arrows!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *