Archery | Moving Up in Draw Weight
Articles Blog

Archery | Moving Up in Draw Weight

August 14, 2019

[shhh-thunk] Hey guys, this is NUSensei. In the past I’ve covered several videos on a recurring topic: draw weight. How to pick the right draw weight, how to know if you have the wrong draw weight, draw weight egos, and several others, and one of the recurring questions is “how do I know when it’s time to move up?” This question is a good question. It’s both simple and complex at the same time. People who ask me this question often consider draw weight to be a progression. Kind of like in weightlifting, where you start from a low weight and over time, as you get stronger, you move to more weight, and that makes sense. Draw weight doesn’t exactly work that way. Some people do pick draw weights based on physical conditioning. Shooting can be a physical activity, that’s why they do archery, but the idea of moving up in draw weight isn’t something which can be easily measured or judged. I can’t say that “oh, you’ve been shooting for three months, therefore you can choose a higher draw weight” or “you’ve been shooting for three years, therefore 30 pounds.” It doesn’t really work that way, and when I give people advice on how to choose draw weight, and people are stuck on how to advance. there are some complexities involved in making the right decision at the right time. As I’ve said in previous videos i’m a firm believer in the notion that your draw weight should be chosen with a purpose in mind. Some people consider draw weight to be a level indicator, where the higher experience you are, or the stronger person you are, the higher draw weight you use. It’s like “look I’m level 35, therefore I can use a 35 pound bow.” That’s not really the way it works. When I say purpose, I mean what are you actually using a bow for. Now, at the moment I’m holding my 25 pound OMP Adventure, Now, a 25 pound bow is relatively light. It’s not a hunting bow. It’s not a competition bow, but a 25 pound bow is still quite hefty. You can use this and shoot in the backyard for hours, and it’s good enough for you to shoot 30 maybe 40 meters and still have a fighting chance to get decent groupings. This is a good thing. I mean that means you can shoot frequently, you can shoot for longer periods, and it doesn’t feel as stressful when you shoot a 25 pound bow, and honestly the average person, not the average archer, but just the average person, doesn’t really need more than a 25 pound bow. 30 pound at most, especially if you’re a fit, athletic adult, but if you are just the average person who wants a bow then picking a decent weight like 25 pounds may be all you need. So, before you look into progressing, ask yourself the question “why do I need a higher draw weight?” and there are several common answers. The first reason is hunting. This is a legitimate reason because there are many areas with minimum draw weight laws, and this is often a 40 pound minimum. This is important because a bow that is too weak would not guarantee an ethical kill. So, you do require a certain draw weight, and it’s often 40 pound or maybe 45 pound. You have to look this up. So, people who want to hunt will specifically need a higher draw weight. So when planning out their progression they may start on a low draw weight, like 25 or 30 pound bow, and over time it will grow into a 40 pound or higher bow. The second good reason is distance. As I said before, a 25 pound bow may be effective up to around 30 or 40 meters, but as you go further and further back, you start pushing, what I will say, the limits of your bow. Now, a 25 pound bow can shoot 50 or 60 meters, depending on your arrows, but it gets to the point where you have to arc so high that there is a lot of inconsistency in the way the arrow reaches the target, and especially because a lower draw weight bow has less velocity, the arrow will take more time to get to the target which means more wind drift. These reasons are good reasons why you might want a higher draw weight. A higher draw weight means a flatter trajectory. That means less sight adjustment if you’re using sites. If you’re using a bare bow or shooting instinctive, that means it’s it kind of easier to get the arrow on target with less compensation in terms of where you’re aiming. That’s quite a good thing so a higher draw weight bow will be better at longer distances, and if you’re shooting long distance, like competition or an Olympic competition, for example, then you generally want a higher draw weight. It doesn’t mean you start high, after all you can still shoot 70m with a 30 pound bow and carbon arrows, but you might want a higher draw weight to improve consistency. The third reason is just wanting to have a stronger bow. This may be tied to a physical reason, where you want to have the strength and condition to use heavier bows. While archery is a shooting sport that’s about accuracy and hitting the target, I can’t judge someone for wanting to be a beefier, bulkier guy by shooting a bow, and honestly that’s not a bad idea. You know, that will give you a lot of benefits. So if you see shooting higher draw weights as your objective, then that, too, can be a legitimate reason within reason. With these goals in mind let’s get back to the question “how do I know i’m ready to move up?” Again bear in mind that arhcery is not purely a strength sport. It’s a technique sport. So if you go up in draw weight, you’re going to sacrifice some of your current form to adjust to a higher draw weight. It will be harder, and this isn’t a simple matter of “I can shoot for three hours,” “I can shoot 100 arrows.” You don’t go “1…2…! I’m done.” No. Draw weights are a bit more complex. So, let’s talk about some of the things you need to be able to do before you can confidently go “I’m ready.” The first criterium, and the most important one in my opinion, is control. How well can you control your shot process, and how good is your form with your current draw weight. Now I’m using a 25 pound bow here, and from start to finish I should be able to control every step, from the draw, to the anchor, and the hold, and of course the release. Which I won’t do(!) But that’s a 25 poud bow. If you can do this every single time, with the same consistency, the same flow, the same control, then that is a good indicator that you are able to move up in draw weight. Again this is something you have to do from start to finish, from your first shot to your last shot. It might be a 120 shots in a day. That is quite normal, and if you can do that from start to finish then you have a good foundation to move up. In comparison, 45-pound Samick Sage. Start-to-finish, draw, anchor, and there we go. Now I feel a huge difference here. 25 pounds…45 pound bow, big difference, but what I feel immediately is, I don’t have full control. I already have certain bad habits. I might be leaning backwards a bit. My shoulder might be popping up. My elbow might be twisting inwards. There are small indicators of bad form, which indicates poor control of the shot process. This is important. Now, if I’m shooting a 45 pound bow, and I want to move up to a 60 pound bow, but I can’t shoot this one well, then already I don’t meet that criterium. The next criterium is your grouping. Can you shoot well enough to get reasonable size groupings at the distances you normally shoot at, and this is an important factor. Bear in mind that moving up in draw weight will normally result in a drop in consistency and accuracy, again, because it’s harder to control a heavier bow. So, if you can’t get tight groupings with your current light bow at short distances, then you shouldn’t be moving up yet because there are flaws in your technique, there is something you’re not doing right, and you just don’t have the foundation to go to more difficult bows. The third criterium is endurance. Do you have the stamina to use your new draw weight for a full day of shooting or however long you shoot. You might be okay for several shots, but if you are going to shoot a full 144 arrow round, then can you do that? Now, of course, transitioning to a higher draw weight means means that you probably won’t be able to handle it right away, but you have to able to do so within reason. If it’s simply impossible to last more than several shots, then perhaps you’re going way too high way too soon. So, keeping that in mind, if you can shoot your current bow endlessly nearly, then that’s ok, but if you’re reaching the peak of your performance, and the peak of your endurance, then perhaps moving up at this point isn’t the right decision. Next question is “how do I move up?” For the average archer you probably don’t need to do any extra training just to move up.The sheer fact that you shoot frequently, this might be daily or nearly daily, will be enough to condition you to use a heavier bow, especially if you have control, you’re shooting well, and you have the endurance. That can be obtained through sheer repetition and practice. Now, if you’re not shooting regularly, then you wont have that conditioning. Can you still shoot a higher weight bow? The answers is yes, but you may have to do extra training, like doing weights, bent over rows, or using stretching bands or your bow to train your endurance through holding exercises. The next question is “how much weight should I go up by?” And this question is determined more by your budget than anything else. Now, ideally you should be going up around two pounds at a time, because, same with weightlifting, adding a few pounds or adding another kilogram is a huge difference. You might think “oh yeah, 30 pounds, 32 pounds isn’t that big a deal.” It actually is. When you’re doing something that requires fine muscle control and accuracy and consistency, adding one more pound will make a difference between smooth control and absolute mess. The smaller the intervals, say if you go from 32…34…36 and so on, that will ensure the smoothest transition to your new draw weight. That means less of a drop in your form and easier adaptation. Of course, you probably don’t want to buy 10 sets of limbs. That’s quite expensive, even if you can trade them in, or even if you can sell them or save them, you probably don’t want to get so many sets of limbs. So, because of this, people might opt to go for bigger jumps, maybe a five-pound jump. That’s probably, I guess, the minimum most people will want to jump up by, otherwise they might go for a 10 pound jump. Whoa! This is getting a little extreme. If you go from like a 20 pound to a 30 pound it’s not that big a difference because, relatively speaking, most adults can handle 30 pounds with some practice, but the higher you go the harder it gets. Going from 40 to 50, or 50 to 60, is exponentially harder. So just keep in mind that while you might have a budget in mind, you don’t want to jump too much because that can completely wreck you. I’m not just talking about physically injuring yourself, but the fact that you cannot control the bow anymore, will stop you from shooting well. So, you know, maybe two pounds to four pounds, five pounds rounding off, but really any more than five pounds at a time and you’re making a big risk. Can you shoot more than five pounds in growth? Yes, but you really have to know what your capabilities are and what your limitations are. To sum up, beyond specific reasons such as hunting or competition, you don’t need to move up in draw weight. Most people just want to move up in draw weight, and that’s a fair thing to do, but if you want to move up in draw weight, you need to fulfill criteria. Can you shoot the bow well? Can control the shot process from start to finish, and can you do so for an entire session, for an entire day, for days at a time. If you can fulfill these criteria, then you’re pretty safe to move up in draw weight. You don’t need the extra exercises unless you don’t have the fitness to meet the new weight. The final thing is you shouldn’t advance too high too soon, because you’ll sacrifice your form, and it may be beyond what you can currently handle. Try to go as small as possible, but keeping in mind your budget may limit how many limbs you can buy. That’s assuming that you have a takedown bow. If you’re buying a one piece bow, then you can’t change the draw weight, that’s it, and that’s the case. You’re kind of locked into it. The same advice applies: you don’t want to go for an extremely strong bow if you’re starting low, but if you want that in a 60-pound long bow, then you have to work into it. You can’t assume you can use it right away. To use it safely and properly you have to be prepared. Anyway, this is NUSensei.
Hope this was helpful. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you next time.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. My progression as a fairly stong fully grown man shooting six days a week for those of you who want an example (freestyle/olympic recurve):
    *Started at 16# and after a few weeks jumped to 24# with no problems (only shot once or twice per week here).
    *Jumped up to 34# after a couple of months which wasn't the best idea because I had constant pain in my back muscles for two weeks and didn't start to shoot decently for over a month but after that it was fine.
    *After around 5-6 months I went to 42# thinking it would be the same as last time but this really was a mistake. I didn't get any pain except some normal soreness but my accuracy went to shit. Now it's three months later and I'm still not as accurate as I was in the spring but I'm finally starting to get there.
    My advice is to go for 4-6# increase and don't rush it. You'll get there eventually 🙂

  2. Around minute 9 you argue that normally the groupings suffer when you increase your draw weight. Perfectly reasonable and surely true for most people. With me it is a little different. I used to shoot state-level in my teens, then stopped, and now – in my forties – got infected with archery again.
    Just as anyone who starts over I started with relativly light bows, 24, 26 and 28lbs. All the time I struggled because, while my results where not THAT bad, nothing felt right. My technique and the feel for the shot, one of my biggest advantages as a teen, where completely gone. The sight wandered all over the place, I felt no backtension, the release was disgusting (because of lack of backtension).
    Then I tried a 36lbs-bow and – you guessed it – bazinga! The frontend bones in the arm finally rested where they should, I felt the pull and tension in the back and everything aligned as it should.
    Long story short: sometimes a higher draw weight can be beneficial – especially when you just need the feeling back.

  3. great stuff, i just started shooting at 48 and use a 25 pound bow, it's plenty strong enough, !!!, Stewart..!!

  4. Something I've always wondered, why do elite tier limbs like Hoyt Quattro come in 20lbs? I've not seen many beginners with $500 to drop on limbs.

  5. I believe a 5# increase a year is very reasonable (while maintaining complete bow control) as long as one shoots a lot on a consistent basis and lifts weights to some degree to strengthen their back muscles.

    I don't think anyone maxes out on what draw weight they can pull unless they believe that there is such a thing as "maxing out".

    Howard Hill worked his way up to a 170# bow and was known for shooting an 80#+ bow in his 60's shooting 150-200 arrows in a single session without any difficulty.

  6. I see training tool called Prairie Innovator Bow Trainer, which is a stick with multiple streching band with draw weight 20 – 130 lbs. Is it wise to make "big jump" by using this training tool?

  7. I've just moved up from 30 to 38#, and everything is fine except my fingers. I had to switch from my glove to my Dad's multi-layer tab, but my forefinger is still feeling it. I think it'll take a while to get used to that. Unfortunately my Dad hasn't got 34# limbs for that riser, which would be optimal.

  8. I'm a skinny Asian 14 year-old kid and just started with a 40# Samick Sage and don't really have any problems, but I can only shoot for about an hour and a half at a time 😛

  9. Great video, thanks a lot for many information. you may have mentioned few things 1) you can adjust the draw weight on your tiller usually by -5 to+ 10℅ 2) you need to thing about the actual draw weight not about the one printed/written on limbs (I once bought stronger second hand limbs top class and due to its way better smoothness it wasn't any heavier than the cheap ones at the end of draw cycle)
    using the tiller adjustment and usually going for higher quality limbs you can do step like 4-6 pounds on limbs and save some money doing small steps by 2
    I currently use 32# Hoyt f7 seriously thinking about 36# Border cvh for next summer season (north part of the world here) hoping this 4 pounds jump will be OK.

  10. I don't know what it's like in other countries but here in germany nearly every archery shop offers a renting system where you pay an annual or 6-monthly fee for your bow or just the limbs. During that renting period one can also change the limbs free of charge or sometimes a small fee. That's ideal for beginners to start with a low draw weight and move up 2-4 pound every 3-4 months. I did that when I started archery with 13 and again when restarting after a nearly 6 year break. Nearly every beginner I know uses that system for the first 1-2 years.

  11. Hi, so if I understood you correctly – if a beginner (like me for example) at some point wants to move up in draw weight I'd only need to buy new limbs and not a new riser or string?

  12. About a year ago I started archery by building a PVC bow. The build said it would come out to roughly 65lbs, so I assumed that's what I was shooting. So when I got really into archery, I bought a 50lb recurve bow because i wanted something a bit easier, but legal to use for hunting. It turned out that at my draw length (26-27 inches) the PVC bow only pulls, like 35lbs and at a regular draw it pulls around 38. So where I thought I was going down in weight, I was actually going up. By now I've basically gotten used to it, but it put a great strain on my arms trying to grow into the recurve. But now I can hit a target at 40 yards! Not well, but at least I'm hitting the target.

  13. I use to compete (shooting at 70 m, 60m 50m and 30m) with a 25# Yamaha Black Widow, for years and I was very accurate. The tournaments lasted all day. I could shoot the whole event without getting tired. My opponents with 40# bows (or more), were very tired and ended up missing the target (good for me), especially at the end of the competition. Why change?

  14. Ha, new to archery – and probably only going to shoot sometimes.. in the wild.. a few times a year. However I was using a theraband (latex) hooked on a scale.. and it seems I can easily get #40 onto it. With actually holding the elbow pretty much up.. and then 'circle' it back the head down.. When I want I can also bring #60 onto the scale. (well 190cm and 120kg – draw is about 30" I guess. Since I can actually – as it seems on the gymnastic-band-test easy #40 – I might go with a #45 anyway.. what will be #50. It's just more fun seems to me 😛 .. maybe a #40.. but not below (with the "30 that would result in a #45). It's just a fun-shooting sometimes .. not more.
    That's what I plan to buy – had never a bow in my hand 😛
    Either way, you are a very very agreeable – very informative guy NUSensei! thank you very much! Very helpful on so many issues related to that archery thing 🙂

  15. hi nu. great video .
    but draw weight on recurves
    is industry standard at 28 inches. so your draw is 25 or so inches (I can't remember the exact and not worth time to look through videos to get )
    so the actual weight on your fingers will be a lot less .
    so most people claiming to pull max weight on a bow are not always doing so .
    (unless long arms)
    doesn't change your points in video . just thought would add.
    though I do remember you covering actual on finger draw weights . just don't remember the when .
    cheers . k lo

  16. Great video as always NuSensei, another idea regarding draw weights is how do you come back to shooting when you haven't shot for a long time. IMO that's pretty relevant to us who have things to do besides shooting everyday. Do we power through and use our heavy limbs till the muscles "come back" or do we use light poundage limbs and work our way up again?

  17. One of your best yet! Another reason for wanting to move up is when shooting at unmarked distances. In NFAS Field Archery shots are taken from unmarked pegs. A faster arrow will have less affect on badly estimated distance as the trajectory is flatter.

  18. I currently shoot 30# and when shooting barebow I'm able to get sight marks with the point on the target face all the way up to 60m (although I do have a slightly longer than average draw length so probably pulling closer to 33# at full draw)

  19. I get alot of flack for using a 26lb bow but my problem is consistency.
    I struggle to maintain grouping as I struggle to support the bow after a few ends.

  20. great video as always :).
    One thing not mentioned on cost of limbs is that you can save money by buying limbs quite a few pounds heavier than you would comfortably use but bring the weight down with a modern riser by a good 10% from the marked weight and then move on up to and beyond the the limb weight stated on the limbs with adjustments.
    This has saved me a lot of money over the last 2 years of shooting and has made me a better tech at tuning.
    There is however a possible extra cost to moving up because you may find that you need a set of stiffer shafts.
    Love all your archery vids keep up the good work.

  21. I originally started out with a 34# draw bow and shooting every week over 2 years, I went up to 36# and eventually 40#. as I shoot barebow with a short riser 23" the 40# bow gives me a reasonable sight window at 60 meters.unless I moved to sighted recurve, a lower poundage bow gave me a sight window that i could not use out at 60 meters. as I shoot 200 arrows or so a session I gather the 40# draw is suitable for my needs

  22. I'm currently shooting a 25# samick sage and in December it will have been 6 months since I started shooting it, and in 2-3 years I'm thinking about moving to Olympic recurve and I want to get 30 pound limbs, I was wondering if that would be reasonable. I practice almost everyday ( if the weather is nice enough) and I've started doing back exercises on occasion.

  23. I came to archery as an ex alcoholic and I had literally screwed my muscles through years of substance abuse and being sedentary. I started out at 22lbs draw, and got pretty good, but as soon as I went up to 26lbs, which I did WAY too soon as my muscles were still very messed up and I still had the shakes, it was a miserable experience and I stopped having fun. I couldn't get the bow back and my accuracy was non-existent. Seriously, don't go up in weight until you're SURE you're ready, because if you're not, it will ruin the experience. I ended up going back to 22lbs not 2 months later and stayed at 22lbs for about a further 6 months before I went up to 24lbs.

  24. As someone who wants to get into english longbow tradshooting and has an end goal of being able to shoot a 150 pound draw weight bow well, this was an excellent video.

    I know this is an old video and you probably won't see the comment, but do you have any sources you recommend for tradshooters, NuSensei? Particularly on Youtube. Your content is excellent for learning general knowledge, but I know you don't specialize in trad.

  25. Does anybody recommend maxing out limbs with the tiller bolts then installing heavier limbs and adjusting the bolts just one pound above the max of the previous limbs?

  26. My chief reason would be because i want to see if i can emulate medieval archers. High draw weight and as little assistance as possible.

  27. I have a sammick sage takedown recurve bow, right now it has 30 pound limbs on it. I was wondering if it was possible to buy heavier limbs to change out to move up in draw weight

  28. Fairly new Samick Sage owner here, learned on a fixed recurve when I was young. I'm 6' tall, I work out and lift on a regular basis so I'm fairly strong. Got 30# limbs for practice and 55# limbs for hunting. Works out great, and I much prefer a day of shooting with the lighter limbs. It's just like shooting a rifle, .22 is a lot more fun and you can build the same marksmanship fundamentals that you'd then take over to a large centerfire caliber for competition or hunting.

  29. I went from a 45 pound one piece longbow to a 60 pound one piece (special rebate sale). I was surprised I could shoot it at all. Still working at the "…well" part. But the feeling when I took my first shot . . .

  30. What I think you were trying to suggest, was whilst 10# increase jump is ok in the lower weight bracket when being budget concious, then over 35# should only be 5# increase jumps for most adults, or if combining weight training to build muscle, 30# – 40# jump perhaps, then 5# increments thereafter, particularly as draw weight gets closer to becoming demanding on personal structure, and compromising form? Trying to sum up what you said.

  31. Hi Nusensei, I'm a newbie in archery, recently joined a club and is feeling that maybe the Olympic style is my thing. So I am considering buying my own bow. I can use 24 pound now without much shaking. I can understand that around 25 pound is enough for like 30 meters or so, and the form, the shooting process and the consistency is the key point. The problem is that when I am browsing the websites of those "pro" manufacturers like W&W or HYOT, their limbs just tend to be provided at 28~pound, most start from 30. So I assume that I should exercise more to raise my capable draw weight to at least 28 pound.

    As a background I understand that this question is somehow combined with gear choosing. I think I'll mostly end up buying only one bow in my life – too many things to worry about money. So I guess a mid level or advanced level bow is what I'd like to invest into for this one single purchase. Sure if I keep practicing, I believe that 30 pound will eventually be too light for me but as you said, it should be good enough for my purpose.

    My concern is, first I cannot use 28 pound limbs now so buying them now is not a good idea. How should I buy my first bow? Leave those fancy "pro" limbs and by some other pairs to start the fun first? Or use the training equipment my club provides until I am strong enough? Thank you.

  32. I hunt in south western Victoria and started with a 80 pound single Cam compound bow but use a 60 pound double cam compound now as it looses an arrow allot faster and more accurately than my old 80.

  33. As someone who jumped from 50lbs to 60lbs I can say be careful. I ended up messing my back and arms up so much that I had to take a couple month break from shooting, please just go slow if you are going to increase your draw weight

  34. Hey NUSensei!

    I want to start practicing Archery, and I was originally going to start with a 30# bow, but now I might start with 25# instead to more easily work on my form.

    What 25# bow would you recommend for a beginner?

  35. Some thoughts on dealing with the budget constraints when moving up in draw weight.

    1) If you are a novice archer and your club as a bow rental agreement then it may be worth doing that for the first year. Usually direct equipment rental from a club ( or via an arrangement with a supplier ) comes with the ability to swap out the limbs during the rental period. So you can follow NUSesei's advice and go for nice small 1-2# increments.

    2) When it comes to purchasing your own kit spend a little more money on the riser ( the middle part ) the higher end risers on the take down bows normally have the ability to "wind up" the limb strength by around 10% so if you are starting with a 25-30# bow that's an extra 2.5-3# weight which you can add in really small increments over several weeks. Then you can purchase new limbs that are maybe 1-2# heavier than your new maximum and wind the riser right back again so your jumps in limb weight can be 5-10# each time but you only have to handle at most a 1# increase in one go.

  36. I dont think hunting is a valid reason to go up, here in finland the only needed draw weight is 30. If you actually follow the rules and play fair, you dont need much more, since the shooting distance never should be less than 30 meters.

  37. The problem with 2 lb increments is, for poorer people that is too expensive. (yes I'm still a "noobie") Even 5 lb increments can get expensive. I had to save for a few months to buy my initial setup and the limbs are approx. $65 a set. May not seem like much to the "wealthier" types, but to the poorer folk that is a lot. I'm planning on 10 lb increases. Of course not fast progression, but more in my range. I don't think doing the excersizes (drawing and holding behind the neck, no arrow of course, combined with LOTS of shooting) for at least 6 months is unrealistic. What are your thoughts on this? For the "troll types" this is a legitimate honest question. CONTROL YOURSELVES PLEASE!

  38. Five pound increment is a good way to go. That’s what I have been doing and it works out well. I think I’m going to top out at 40.

  39. I have a 25lb Samick Sage that I train with. I have had professional coaching since the start of my taking up archery. I have good proper form, and that's becoming muscle memory. My question is if I continue to practice form and release with the 25lb Sage at the shooting range, but train with a bow training band (Saunders) at home every day, will I be able to move up in draw weight much faster by exclusively training with, and progressing with the trainer at home? I feel like if I continually go up in poundage using the training bands while simultaneously train in archery at the range with my 25lb bow, I will be able to move up in weight faster, and be able to make much larger jumps in limb weights, without sacrificing form (due to actual shooting training with a lower pound bow).

  40. Some idiot came to the range yesterday, with a 100 lbs compound bow, and shot the arrows entirely through the foam block and into the wall behind. Started at 45, waaaay too much, went down to 34 for 2 months, and now I'm at 38, and its very comfortable. I'll stay here until I have a super grouping, then work out the step up to 40+ for hunting. Still lots to learn, not rushing anything.

  41. I've got 30 million views on my videos and I still don't understand people are putting a thumb down when it's good. The same goes for you NU Sensei, all your videos are so well explained presented and documented that it puzzles me that 10 idiots dislike this video

  42. NU , This is probably the best and one of the most important criteria for any new archer and old archer who is getting back into the sport ! I was 15 when I started with a 52# recurve and compound bows didn't exist ! I am 67 today and still enjoy the sport and weight will make or break you from archery if not careful ! Many of my older friends have shoulder problems today due to this and it cant be over emphasized !
    I choose to hunt with a 60# compound with 80% let off and use a 34 # recurve for 3 D as I find it much more fun for me ! keep those shoulder muscles toned my friend or you will pay the price ! My advice is to start at low poundage get your form right and move up, I wish I had been given that advise when I first started as I think I could have been a better archer today! 😂

  43. Lots of good advice. I have a quick question if you have time.
    I am new to archery and will be getting my own bow in the next couple of weeks. I have found that I can shoot a 25lbs club bow for an hour and a half, 100 ish arrows, before my consistency starts to drop. I will be getting a 25" riser with long limbs. Do you think getting 25lbs limbs is a good starting point or should I try 28lbs? Thank you for any comment.

  44. Can I start with a 44 pound bow if I'm not strong? Probably not, but I'd like to get into competition at some point. I really only want to buy a single high quality bow.

  45. I don't understand the fear associated with bumping up draw weight. I'm a trad bowhunter and my practice is split 50 50 between stump shooting and backyard plinking, and I've never had a problem doing big jumps in draw weight. I started with a 35, then a 50, then a 70, and then a 56 for funsies. When I stopped shooting for a bit I jumped back in with the 56, and then bounced back up to my 70. The transition between bows is a little messy for a week or two, but after that its fine. During that week or two I shoot as much as I can, bare minimum one session a day. I'm convinced draw weight is more of a mental thing than most people think. Guys gotta spend more time shooting and less time worrying…

  46. One acronym, RSI. With a high elbow draw you are likely relying on infraspintus and teres major muscles rather than “getting your back into it” as a “English Long Bowman” would.
    These muscles being small with a dominance of fast twitch fibres will fatigue easily.
    Therefore, if you increase weight you need to drop repetition and gradually increase reps slowly as the progressive muscle overload states.

  47. Thank you for your non macho explanation. My self I have to do weight training for my mental health and stress. Inadvertently my weight training has strengthened my traps and deltoids. I also plan to hunt feral hogs. So yes my bow will be a 100lb horse bow.

  48. I'm 21 novice archer and started with 35 lbs. It's good enough for me as a person practising calistenic for 1 year

  49. Unfortunately I did not listen to your advice. Yesterday I bought my first bow 40 LBS and it's really hard. I thought i'm strong enough but ….

  50. I started with 26 pound limbs, (have about a 30inch DL) and I struggle after about 50-60 arrows, I'll look to go up once my endurance increases.

  51. I've found that draw weight progression has a lot to do with your build and body type. I'm Olympic recurve cadet division(14-17) and I jumped from 34 to 40 lbs draw. My coach told me this jump was way to big and I should go back, while my dad said it was ok. In the end it might be best to listen to someone who has experience and is a similar build to you.

  52. I'm at the turn in my life that I want to try a Recurve bow again. Since shooting my Compound bows, I had a Heart attack and Quadruple bypass. Also, I haven't made any Testosterone for over 20 years. I've also came off Prescription Chemical Dependency very recently. My compound bows are setting at 48 to 52# with let-offs from 5% to probably 35%. I consider the 5% let-off bow to be really a 50# short longbow with pulleys. An "anchor-point" is a difficult thing to achieve — gotta go down in draw weight.

    OK I have a 40# "Turkish Recurve", that I bought about 60 years ago. It's too short to get an anchor point, reliably. My draw length is about 29 inches; long limbs are smoother to 'overdraw' at the upper end. I'm seeing and understanding the reasoning in 20 to 30# draw weights. [CONTROL] I bookmarked MANY of your videos for future reference.
    Maybe you'll see my new comment on this October 8, 2016 video, (I hope).

  53. Hm, ordered a MandarinDuck Phantom 56" 40lbs as hunting bow for survival situations… hope thats good enough… and i am strong enough 🙂

  54. Great video again. I shoot 44# with my thumbring and Turkish bow and I shoot #60 with my selfbow or composite bow using Mediterranean release. I can shoot these for and hour or two.
    I like a bit of a workout and feel I should move up by 50# but Im getting older.

  55. So on horsebows The max Draw weight comes at The last Inches right? How is it on normal revurves? And what is better? How are the curves?

  56. Excellent video. I think I will buy a 25 lbs bow when I get paid next week and then go up by 2-5 lbs every month if I'm consistently accurate and controlling.

  57. Simple question: I shot in a competition of 60 arrows (18mt, 80cm target) two months ago and made 553/600 points. Last week in other similar competition (18mt, 60cm target) made 519/600. In the next I must shoot at a 40cm target and need to do 500 out of 600 points (my goal). Should help to raise my actual 30 pounds to 32?

  58. Thank you for this clip and your helpful content in general.

    As you mentioned archers who do not shoot take-down bows have a problem related to budget limitations if they want to increase draw weight by small increments. So, I am a selfbow longbow archer and I would say I am doing quite decently on my 45 pounds. As I want to get a more realistic notion of what it feels like to shoot a medieval bow, I want to increase my draw weight to 70 to 75 pounds. What approach do you suggest for this context?

  59. I have been doing archery for 2 weeks. I shoot 4 times a week. Each session is about 2-3 hours. I have a coach for that. I started off with a 25# LH ELB, then I moved on to a LH 30# compound bow without a sight on the first day. On the second days, I started to use the 30# cound bow to shoot a smaller target (20-cm in diameter) at 15 yards. After a while, LH 50# compound bow with a sight to shoot at 20-cm target at 15 yard. After, getting only 9's and 10's, I moved to shoot at a 18 yard target, then 20 yard. Now, I am shooting at a 20-cm-diameter target from 25 yards and get mostly 10's and 9's. I am still not getting tired. (Thanks to over a decade of moving, pulling and lifting patients as a paramedic and training in firearm shooting.) Should I move onto using a heavier setting for a farther target? I hate to damage my arrows, they have been scratch each other.

  60. I'm a beginner archer. I choose barebow archery. According to your standar, I guess I am not an average person. I started at 20 lbs and now my instructor tell me to moving up to 22 lbs. Other ppl has 28 lbs draw weight, 40 lbs …. but it is okay for me. I enjoy archery so I will enjoy the process

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *