This is going to be a huge video. Now, I want to begin by saying that there isn’t one ‘correct’ way of making a bowstring. You can look up different tutorials, and videos and each one has something slightly different. Where possible, I’ll cover alternative methods to better cover this topic. And again, I’m not the authority of making bowstrings. This is simply how I make my bowstrings, and, they work. Again, this is an open invitation for you to ask questions and to share your own experiences. If you’ve only tuned in to just this video, check out my other videos on bowstring making to get a better idea of the tools and materials I’m using. Today, I’ll be making a red endless loop recurve string, made from BCY 8125G. First I’m going to rotate the posts on the string jig, so that they are in line. Make sure to tighten both of the arms. I’m making the string for my 68” target recurve. If you already have a string, you can use that to measure out the length of the new string. However, this isn’t particularly accurate. Old strings usually have twists in them, which shortens the length of the string. If you’re using this shortcut, make sure you compensate for the length by making the new one longer. Otherwise, measure the length of the new string yourself. Although each bow has its own optimal string length, based on its size and brace height, you can get a workable length by using the AMO standard. For modern recurves, the string length is 3 inches shorter than the bow length. So for my 68” bow, I’m making a 65 inch string. I’m erring on the longer side, because I can always add twists to the string later to make it shorter, but I can’t make a short string longer. I’m going to start this process by wrapping the end of the string around the screw. There are many different ways to start the string, and this can vary based on the jig you are using. Some people tie it off at the post, some jigs have a separate knob to tie it onto,. I have set up my jig so that I can work in this position, but as long you can anchor the end of the string somewhere, you’re fine. Note that I won’t be tying knots on the string itself. With the string anchored, I’m going to build up the string by wrapping it around the farthest post. The number of times you do this depends of the number of strands you want on your string. This depends on various things, including the material of the bowstring, the draw weight of the bow, and even the desired thickness of the string to suit your nocks. You can find tables to calculate the optimal number of strands, or you can follow the manufacturer recommendations. Generally speaking, heavier bows require more strands for durability, but adding more strands will decrease speed, though with modern materials this isn’t as clear-cut. In my case, I’m making an 18-strand string for my 40 pound bow, so I’m doing nine whole passes around the post. I then tie off the other end of the string and use a knife to cut off the excess. This is what it looks like at this point. Note how the string is fairly taut and there is no slack. If you’ve lost some tension, unwind the anchor and pull the string taut before tying it off again. Now, I’m going to work on the first end loop. Rotate one of the arms, so that the posts are now perpendicular to the string. You need your serving jig for this part. For this string, I’m using BCY 62XS. If you’re having trouble visualizing what we’re making, this is the part we’re working on. Starting the serving can be tricky to explain. Lay a section to the thread so that it lies flat against the string. Keeping this in place, wrap the serving jig several times around the string, overlapping the loose end of the tread. Once you’ve done several spins, the serving should hold itself in place. You can then slide it down the string to the desired length. Pull the loose end to tighten the serving. Use pliers to get an even better grip. For a more specific measure of how far the server should be from the post, you can measure it with a ruler. However, through trial and error, I’ve figured out the length required for the larger, top end loop to be about the size of my thumbs. I’m actually going to offset it slightly, so that when I rotate the posts later, the serving should be correctly positioned around the post. Tighten the serving again if you need to. Then, use a knife to cut the excess thread, so that it doesn’t get it the way later. Now the fun begins! Complete the serving by spinning the jig around the string. This requires a bit of finesse and timing and most people think about their own technique. Some use two hands and go slow. Others are able to get the jig spinning continuously. In fact, you can buy automatic serving jigs that use a power drill to get it done. Regardless of how you do it, focus on a consistent rhythm, rather than doing it quickly and joking around. This ensures that the serving is tight and smooth with no gaps. The string will probably twist as you are doing this. As long as it doesn’t go past the post, it’s fine. If the twists are a problem, loosen the knot on the string on the string jig to give it slack, and the string should unwind. Tighten the jig again before proceding. Continue the serving and stop when you’ve reached the marked gap. Again, for me, I’m using the length of my thumbs as a guideline. And since I offset the starting position, it’s going to be about this far out. Here, we can briefly examine what the serving looks like. Now, you rotate the posts 90 degrees to their original position. Note how the serving ends at closed position due to the offset starting point. Since the serving is holding the string together, I can take the opportunity to cut the anchoring strings. I now need to complete the loop. This has some variations. Some people prefer to continue the serving down the string, while others prefer to work towards the end loop. I’ll be doing the latter method. Give your self some extra slack on the thread and start wrapping it further down the string, working towards the end loop. There should be enough to cover the string where it contacts the limb groove, and I’ve estimated it to be about this long. Keep on spinning and overlap the serving at the end a few times. Now to tying off the serving. Give yourself a long length of thread and cut it from the spool. Make a big loop with this thread, then continue wrapping it around the string, this time working backwards. Do this about ten times. Hold the loose end in place and then start wrapping the loop around the string. As one side continues the serving, the other will unwind. Once you’ve reached the end, pull the loose thread trough and this will tighten the end of the serving. After that, cut the excess length and use a lighter to burn of the end of the string, to prevent it from becoming frayed and unraveling. Your first loop is done! Take a moment to admire your handy work. Now to work on the other end. If your jig has two rotating arms, do the same thing as the first one. If your jig only has one rotating arm, you need to take the string off and reverse it. I’m measuring using my thumbs again. This time, since this is the smaller loop, it’s going to be a slightly shorter length. Start the serving the same way as the previous loop. Do the same thing until you’ve reached the desired length. As of last time, rotate the arm back to its original position. See here that I’ve mismeasured and made it too long. This isn’t a problem. You can overlap the excess. Like last time, I’m going to be serving towards the end loop. Finish the end loop using the same method as the provious one. Remove the string from the jig and you now have a nearly finished bowstring with two loops. We now need to work on the center serving. This can be done on the jig, but it may be easier to do it on the bow itself. Remember, the center serving needs to cover the nock point and the fore arm. A rough guideline is to start a couple of inches above the arrow rest and continue to the bottom of the grip. Note that there’s a difference between left and righthanded strings. Remember that it’s best to wrap the serving in the same direction that tightens it when shooting with fingers. Start the center serving the same way as you did with the loops. Then, begin spinning. Now, you can do this the normal way, but there is a faster method. Pinch the string on either side, give the serving jig a flick and keep it spinning by rapidly making small, circular motions with the string. Finish the serving the same way as the end loops. You’re nearly done. The string is practically complete, but I still need to put on nocking points. I can’t really do this until I make sure my brace height is correct, first, so I’m going to twist the string to get it right. If you know the correct position of the nocks, you can put it on rightaway. Otherwise, you should put on a loose nock set, do some tuning with the bow, then put on a permanent nock set when you’re satisfied with the alignment. Many strings start out with a brass nock set. But due to the extra weight, this is unpopular with more experienced archers, who will use serving thread instead. There are several ways to do this. My method is to basically create a mini serving on either side of the nock. The nock set is complete! To seal the deal, it’s a good idea to give the string a nice coat of wax. Get the string warmed up by rubbing it. You can use your fingers or a piece of leather. Once it’s heated up, get your wax and rub the string down generously. The heat helps the wax to get into the strands. Give it another thorough rub. To get the excess wax off, and to give the string a nice round shape, I use a bit of thread, loop it once around the string and slide it down all the way. Your string is complete. It’s advisable to leave the bow strung overnight to stretch the string out. Otherwise, admire your own, personally made string, and start sending arrows downrange. I really hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you found this helpful, please give this video a huge thumbs up! This is NUSensei, thank you for watching and I’ll see you next time!