Archery | Buying Your First Bow #2 – How to Purchase Online
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Archery | Buying Your First Bow #2 – How to Purchase Online

August 12, 2019

(shot fired) Hi guys, this is NU Sensei. This is the second part of my series on how to buy your first bow This series, and this video in particular has the support of who has kindly provided the equipment, that will be showcased in this tutorial. Buying your first bow like with buying your first car or your first house, can be both an exciting and terrifying moment. Many first time buyers will go through phases of uncertainty and regret. Am I buying the right thing? What if I make a mistake? While there are some complex steps, the actual process of buying a bow is not that hard, once you understand what you need to look for. This video will go through a live demonstration of how to buy a bow. Firstly, lets address an immediate question: Should you buy in person or online? Let’s compare the two options. There are two main advantages in buying from an actual store location. The first advantage is that you can see all the products on the shelves. This means that you can not only see the range of options you have in front of you, often you are able to physically handle it. Shops will normally allow if not encourage you to try before you buy. Especially with your first bow much of the judgement comes from look and feel. The second advantage is that you get immediate customer service. The shop staff are able to help you with any questions or concerns. Even if you know nothing about bows, they can guide you through the process of making the right selection. Not only that, they will also get your measurements, so that you have the right bow, arrows and accessories, so that you are ready to use your bow as soon as you walk out of the door. There are a couple of disadvantages. Firstly, you may not have the wide range of options. Many archery stores are fairly small, and will only stock certain brands, models and products. Stores are often specialised. preferring to deal with outdoor hunting items, traditional gear, or mainly compound bows. For this reason it can often be hard for someone shooting a different style to get the right service. Even if the shop orders items in, they may lack the expertise to help you with your purchase. The second disadvantage is that there might simply not be a store near you. This is a big problem for the majority of people, whether because the nearest store is over an hours drive away, or even the fact that your country doesn’t have any archery stores. In that case buying online may be your only option. Before we discuss online buying, there are a couple of myths, that I want to clarify. The first is the advice that you should never buy your first bow online. As someone who never actually bought a bow in person, I’ll say outright that this is utterly false. Doing a blind buy can be scary, but if you know what you need to get, there’s nothing wrong with buying online for the first time. The second myth is that you should never buy off Ebay or Amazon. This one has some validity. These two sites among others are go-to places for impulse buyers looking for the cheapest gear, and they’re flooded with positive reviews. The advice is more to guide you against buying the wrong thing. Many sellers provide vague or misleading descriptions, that make you think you’re buying a one size fits all bow. And you end up with buyers remorse, and you find that you can’t actually use it. Additionally, you get zero support when buying from Amazon or Ebay. You get the product plastic wrapped and sent in a box, but it’s not set up for you to use. Seeing people turn up to my club with their new Chinese knock-off compound bow still in the plastic without a clue as to what to do is actually rather sad and avoidable. This doesn’t mean that sites like E-Bay are bad, many stores have their own E-Bay store and you can find good deals, especially on used equipment. If you know what you are looking for, then it is a good option. If you’re impulse buying, I strongly suggest that you buy from a professional archery store. The main advantage of buying online is that you have options. You can shop around more easily from different stores. Some stores are more easily acessible and offer better shipping rates, or carry certain items that you’re looking for. The second advantage is of course – convenience. You can order things from home and get it shipped to your doorstep. Again, if you know exactly what you’re looking for, this is a better option if you can’t get to a store easily in person. If you don’t know what you’re getting, this can be tough. While many online stores do offer customer service, such as through online chat, e-mail or phone. It’s pretty hard to get a good idea of what you are meant to be getting if you know nothing. You don’t get to see what you are getting and you can’t get measured up for the right equipment. So you need to make all the choices yourself. If you want to buy in person, it’s much easier for you to walk in with a vague idea and walk out with a bow. Buying online is a little harder. For the remainder of this video we’ll walk through what you need to do to make a good purchase through an online shop. Note that for the purposes of this tutorial, I am assuming that you are buying a basic takedown recurve bow like this one. If you are looking for something else, like a compound bow or traditional bow, some of this information may not apply to you. And you would need to make sure you buy the right gear for your style and discipline. As I mentioned earlier, is the sponsor for this tutorial. so I’ll be using their website to demonstrate how to buy a bow. As I mentioned earlier, I’m assuming that you are buying a basic recurve bow. Most stores will stock at least one brand of entry level bow that is low in cost and considerable for beginners. Brands include the Core Pulse, the SF Optima+, the Samick Polaris, and the case of they sell the OMP Adventure 2.0. This is the lowest priced bow in their range and is the ideal bow for beginners. You may also see the other bows they have in stock such as the OMP Explorer 2.0, and other hunting style bows. Now, notable on this page you can buy the bow seperately, or you can buy the bow in a package. And this is a crucial choice. Packages will usually have all the things that you need to start shooting, and the price of the package will either reflect the quality of the bow, or the number of acessories you have. In this case I see the OMP Adventure 2.0 has the basic package and the deluxe package. Let’s take a look at the deluxe package: This is the deluxe package offered by compared to the beginner package, you get a lot more stuff for about 70$ more. What do you get in this package? In the package you get the following items: You get the bow itself, which is in this case the Adventure 2.0 from the OMP. This is a fairly typical beginner level recurve bow. The bow contains the string, the wooden riser and the limbs, which are wood and fibreglass. You get a set of 6 arrows, in this case the Gold Tip Traditionals, which are carbon with feathers. You get the bow stringer, the arrow rest, several nocking points, a basic finger tab, arm guard, belt, quiver, a sleeve for your bow and the arrow points. All these items are listed here in the description. It is worth noting that most stores will ship the items as is, albeit you may have the option to customise if you requested. Aditionally, if the shop is out of stock, they may replace some of the parts or even upgrade you if you’re fortunate. This package looks like it contains everything you need to start archery and more. While you can start with less, such as in the basic package, this contains everything you probably need to shoot safely and conveniently. So if you were to buy this particular set, you would do the following things: the first thing you do is pick your length, this is the bow length, now the size depends on how big you are. I’ve covered this topic in different videos, there are charts you can look at, but these charts kinda ignore the reason why you are buying a bow. So I’m going to give the basic version. the 48″ and the 54″ bows are probably more suited for kids, the 48″ particularly is a junior size bow, the 54″ bow is probably meant for teenagers, for adults you’re probably more suited for the 62″ or the 68″ bows. The 62″ bow ir probably the average for a beginner bow, everyone can use this bow, but if you’re a particularly tall person, you might go for the 68″ bow, that’s probably the more comfortable one. Now, if you buy any size, it’s still usable, but the bigger you are the less comfortable the smaller bows will be, ant that’s for a particular reason which I’ll discuss in different video. Once you’ve picked a length, then you pick the hand you use the bow with. Now, for archery the hand is the hand you use to pull the string back. It’s not the hand you hold the bow in, so I draw the string with my right hand, I am a right handed archer, I hold the bow in my left hand, so in this case I’m buying a right handed bow. And just remember, it’s not the hand you hold the bow with, it’s the hand you hold the string with. Now, the draw weight is very important. Now, for this beginner set, it only comes in low draw weights. If you buy a different bow, like a hunting bow or from a different store, you may find the draw weights go from 20 to 30, 45, even 60 pounds for a hunting bow. You kinda want to start lower it’s an very big issue in archery, where people start way too high. A lot of people will think if they macho things, bigger bows, heavier bows means more manliness. You’ve got to resist the urge. Now, the tradeoff is between something that is too easy, compared to something which you can grow into. Now, I generally recommend, that that you don’t buy more than 30 pounds for your first bow. This assumes, by the way, the 62″ bow the different bow sizes have slightly different ratings, but let’s assume 62″, I prefer a 25 pound bow in this set, because it’s a perfect tradeoff between an easy way to learn with, compared to shooting a bow that actually feels pretty good. 28 pound is still pretty good, 20 pound is quite good for absolute beginners or juniors. But 25 is probably in my opinion the average that the average person can handle, let’s do that. The arrow service, now, not all stores offer this, but you can do this. If you want to cut your arrows down, and have the inserts installed for you, then you can pay an extra fee to get a service by the supplier. If you know what length to get, you can choose the actual length. Otherwise you can leave it as is, it’s not that important by the way. If you are doing a proper tune for your bow, or if you know your exact draw length, you can do this. Normally the arrow length is an 1 1/2 inch (38mm) longer than your draw length. But if this confuses you, this isn’t so important for your first set of arrows. Your finger tab size. Basically just imagine the size of glove that you have. Small, medium, large and extra large. It’s not too important for this particular finger tab, but if you want a comfortable fit, then pick a size which best approximates your hand. I’ve got a medium hand size, so that’s probably best suited for me. The armguard colour is purely cosmetic, Black, red, blue, pink, whatever, it doesn’t really matter too much. And the same for quiver it’s a cosmetic thing – red, black, blue or pink. Finally, how many you want. You probably just want one bow, But if you’re buying this for the kids or for your significant other and yourself, you might want to buy 2. And that’s the process of buying a bow from a package. Now, if you really don’t know what you’re doing, and you just want a bow, this is the safest method. You can get a functional bow that works for you, has a lot of acessories without having to try it yourself. This is really that easy, it’s not as scary as you might think it is, it’s not as scary as people make it out to be. This is a 100% safe buy and it works. There are, however, some disadvantages. The big one is – with packages like these you may not be able to customise things the way you want to. And if you want particular items, you may have to buy things separately. So if you want to buy a bow that’s not in a package, or you want to buy things seperately, because you want particular items. The process becomes a bit more complex. Now, one of the advantages of this package, is that you actually can see the sort of things you would need. So this can form a checklist for you. So while you might change the items, you at least know what you are getting. So let’s actually buy and shop around for bow that we want. I’m assuming this won’t be in a package. There are a lot of packages on this website, but let’s say I want the Jaguar is very popular, the Jaguar Elite from Martin. There is a Martin Jaguar set, or there’s a Martin Sabre set, but let’s say I want the Martin Jaguar Elite. This is a very popular bow. So you don’t get the package, but you do get the recommended items sometimes. But it looks like I’ll want this particular bow, Martin Jaguar is a very popular bow, and let’s buy this 200 USD. So, the draw hand, it’s only a right handed bow by the way. The Martin Jaguars only come right handed for some reason. There is no left handed version. Draw weight, now this is a more advanced hunting style bow, there is no low draw weight, this is very important if you’re buying a bow from a scratch. I don’t recommend more than 30 pounds for tour first ever bow. You only get these if you know what you’re doing and you have some experience. If you do wanna have high draw weight, start low and work your way up. But let’s say I actually do want a high draw weight. Let’s say I want a 40 pound bow, I’ve done enough practice to use a 40 pound bow. So, I have the bow that’s basically it, add to cart, that’s easy. Allright, so that’s the first step. Next, I want some arrows. That’s probably obvious. So we go to acessories, we go for arrows. The arrows are probably the hardest thing to buy, because there are so many arrows, different materials, different brands, different cost and all that. It’s quite hart to know what you want to get, in fact there is something very important about arrows and that is spine rating. And this is something I can’t cover in one video, because this is the most complex thing. The best way I can do this is, is say this let’s say I’m gonna go with the Gold Tip Traditionals, actually, any arrow can work, I’m currently using the Gold Tip Traditionals. They are for a fairly good, price, they are pretty affordable for what you get. Basically the more expensive arrows are straighter, and basically they’ll fly better for you. The cheaper arrows don’t have the same straightness or quality control, they’ll still function, you can buy very cheap arrows. The thing that’s gonna throw you off is the spine ratings. Now, this is how it basically works the larger the number, the softer the spine, that means the arrow will flex more, and I’ve talked about this in a different video, but basically, the higher your draw weight, the smaller the number you want, The smaller numbers means a stiffer arrow. A higher draw weight, will better match a stiff arrow. Whereas a low draw weight, will match a softer arrow. There are charts you can look up, in fact, in fact I might find one right now. So what I’ve done here is googled the manufacturer name and arrow chart, and you can do this for any manufacturer, in this case Gold Tip. there are clickable charts and you can find these charts, which have the spine rating in the table itself. or you have this kind of chart, which has a key with the spine ratings on the side. You can find them for any brand name like Easton, for example have their own arrow charts. You can find them for Carbon Express, Any arrow you want there will be a matching chart, which function very similarly. If we look at the Gold Tip one, which is the easiest one, which I’ve got right now, they provide the instructions for you. The first step is to find your draw weight in the chart, that’s left hand side. I’ve chosen a 35 pound Martin Jaguar, now do bear in mind that the actual draw weight on the fingers depends on the draw length. These charts don’t factor it in, but it’ll give close enough figure for the most part. So 35 pounds on my Martin Jaguar, I now need to match the right bow. Now, a compound bow is a bit more efficient than a recurve bow or traditional bow, so measure using the right chart. So traditional bow for me, 35 pounds, arrow length is from the throat of the nock to the end of insert. Now as I said before, the typical length of an arrow for the average person is about 1 1/2 to 2 inches(38-51mm) longer than your draw length. Now, my draw length as I mentioned is about 26″, so I’ll round up to a 28″ arrow. That gives me a “1” rating in this chart, that matches to a 600 spine. and if I go to my shop again, and if I go to the Gold Tip Traditionals. And by the way, this is one of the factors which arrow you buy. Now if I want a good or fairly good match to my arrows, I will have to pick what’s available. Let’s say I’ll go to the Gold Tip Hunter arrows, which are very popular entry level brand. I’ll check the Gold Tip Traditional arrows, the Gold Tip Hunter arrows, only go up to 500 spine, so these are generally stiff arrows, that don’t come in softer variants. So if I want a 600 spine arrow, I can’t use these. Whereas the Gold Tip Traditionals do come at 600, the lowest is only 340 not 300, so one of the factors which arrow you buy, is which spine you can choose from. Certain spines are more common, others not so much. So if I want a good match for my 35 pound bow, I would buy the 600 spine Gold Tip Traditionals. The spine rating isn’t that essential for your first buy. In fact your first set of arrows, will rarely be perfect. Your only way get a good tune with your bow, is to do some bare shaft tuning, or paper tuning, or french tuning, there are different methods. So, when you get more advanced, and you care more for accuracy and precision, that’s when you probably will buy a second set of arrows, which will better match for your bow. If you’re just starting out, this is close enough. It’s worth mentioning, that if you’re buying from a set, they usually give you a fairly stiff arrows like the 500s, because they assume that eventually you will grow into your bow, buy a heavier draw weight, and therefore get a closer match. It’s generally easy to get a stiffer arrow than get an arrow that’s too soft for you, so just keep that in mind, it’s not that important, but if you do care enough to get a perfectly straight flight, Then you might want to look these charts up. The Easton charts are here, Gold Tip, or any brand you want, and pick appropriate arrows. The other thing I should mention is, that mostly you get stiff arrows For a 25 pound bow, which is what I recommended earlier for the OMP, you may find that the spine rating should be closer to around 1000, you know, to 1100. You actually need very soft spined arrows, the problem of lot of the traditional hunting stores is that they don’t stock arrows that low. so you kinda can’t find any. It’s probably not stocked, I don’t recognise any brands here, which stock really thin arrows. There is a 600 spine for Victory Youth arrows. Yeah, it’s quite hard to find them, you might find them in more specialised sports stores, which have youth arrows. But you find, that the slightly stiffer arrows are ok. For the record, the 500 spine arrows, which I got from this kit, are better suited for my 45 pound Samick Sage, more so, than my 25 pound OMP Adventure. So, it’s not a bad thing, you still shoot ok, at close distance and you will learn to shoot with stiffer arrows, but if you wanna a perfect match, that’s what you do. You find these charts, you find your draw weight and your arrow length, and you pick the right spine for your particular bow. So 6 arrows is one quantity, which is a pack of six, so you can buy them in dozens, but I just want 6 arrows. Add to the cart, that’s it. On a side note, you can find calculators, for your spine, if it’s too hard for you. And you can find apps for your mobile phone, which can calculate this one for you as well. Now, since we’re on that topic, when you buy arrows that are pre-made, they are usually pre-fletched and they have a nock already installed. You will need to buy things seperately. You will need to buy inserts seperately, as well as points seperately. You can buy broadheads, if you’re hunting, but I’m assuming this is your first bow, you don’t need broadheads, and you can buy points. In this case it recommends this field point, this one I’ll get actually and since I’m right here. Now which one you pick, could also be very confusing. Again, this doesn’t matter too much for your arrow. Now, certain arrows have recommendations. You can go with that, so if I go to the Gold Tip Traditionals, hopefully it takes us back to the page, and it does. It might tell you the recommended weight. So, it includes nocks and inserts, so you don’t need to buy seperate inserts. If it doesn’t you may have to buy them seperately, but in this case it does. It comes with feathers already fletched. Again, if you buy a bare shaft, wou will have to buy the things seperately, but most traditional stores will at least have these things pre-made for you. I do need points though. So, a heavier point will make an arrow softer, a lighter point will make it stiffer. There are certain recommendations, I’m trying to find where they are right now. You can google it actually. So we’re gonna see, we go to Google, we go to Gold Tip Traditionals recommended point weight, you might find it. Normally there are charts for this, and you can find this in either the shop itself, or you might find it on the manufacturer website, you can see here the Traditionals, yup, recommended point weight 100-250grains depending on the spine, since I’m buying the 600s, Recommended point weight 75-150gr, so I can pick any of these. Again, for your first set, it doesn’t matter too much. Where are points? I want to buy points seperately. Okay, uhm, points… points… points. So arrow points. You can pick several different kinds, the points are fairly standard. The thing with points is, that for these Traditonal arrows, you can replace the points with broadheads or another point you want. I just want a simple field point, and the one I want is this one – Saunders Combo Point. It comes in a 12-pack, I’ve got 6 arrows. So if I bought 12, this is perfect, but I’ve got 6 spares there. The recommended point weight is 75-150gr, it doesn’t matter too much. Oh by the way, this is great, it shows you which bushings and inserts to use, if you do need to replace your nocks or your points. But anyway, the point for 600 spine arrow is 75-150gr, so let’s go straight in the middle a 100gr, not grams, grains. That’s probably enough. You can put the shaft diameter, in this case the shaft diameter is I’m not sure… Alright, I had to jump to a different website to grab the information I need, I googled Gold Tip shaft diameters, I jumped to Three Rivers, which is another great site which has supported me in the past, They have a table for the information you need, so the Gold Tip Traditional carbon shafts, the older shafts use 5/16″(8mm) points, so when buying the point I’m going to grab the 5/16″(8mm), not the 9/32(7mm) default, so that’s my next order – one dozen Combo points. Sometimes you have to really look around to find information you need. A good store has everything in one page, But sometimes a google search will bring up the result, that you need, so just do keep in mind that these things are really useful, and if you can’t find it in one place, you can find it somewhere else. So that just to recap, I have my bow, I have my arrows and my points. This is the hardest part of buying a bow online without any help. And hopefully you’ve seen how it’s done if you’re doing a blind buy. Again, this won’t be perfect, but it doesn’t matter, it’s close enough to get you started. It’s very important to note, that if you’re buying pre-fletched arrows, they usually come with vanes, nocks and inserts already installed, or bought for you, you just do buy the points seperately. If you’re buying a bare shaft, if you’re buying a shaft seperately, you have to buy every component. That’s vanes, nocks, points, inserts and shafts. So to make things easy, you can buy them factory made, with just points seperate, but just keep in mind, that if you’re not buying factory made, you will have to buy things seperately. The rest of the shopping is actually quite easy. Since the hard part is the bow and the arrows, you can just go through the list and buy what you need. We do need an arrow rest, now do check the product carefully, some bows do come with an arrow rest, others don’t, and which rest you use depends on your need hunting, bow fishing or basics. In this case I just want a basic rest. I believe the Jaguar has a rest already, but let’s say I’m buying a different bow, under rests, this will be it, otherwise you can shoot off the shelf using the rugs. But let’s say I want a basic rest. Again, I’m not sure if the Jaguar has one, I’m pretty sure it does, but I’ll buy another one anyway, so I’ll grab this basic plastic rest. That’s for right hand, I’m right handed shooter and a right handed bow, so that’s one more thing to list there. We can buy a bow stringer. You can string a bow by hand, I’ve done a video, showing how to do so. But it’s much easier and safer to use a bow stringer. All these things are very similar, it doesn’t matter. They all cost very similar price. I prefer this one I guess, but it doesn’t matter which one you use. They are slightly different in design, but they function the same way. That’s one bowstringer. Next- Gloves and tabs, and armguards. So, you can buy really nice tabs by the way. You can buy gloves, if you want traditional style gloves, you can buy the simple tabs, you can buy armguards. The cheap tabs are like 10$ I actually love these tabs, the Cavaliers are really good, solid tabs. Our you can go for a glove. Let’s go for a Cavalier tab. And I want an armguard, I have this one already, it’s a really nice guard. Lets say I want this simple tab. This armguard is really easy to use. So I’ll click on them, and set the size. I’ve got medium sized hands, so that’s one Elite tab. A great target tab! If you’re shooting field, by the way, a glove might be better for you, because tabs can be dropped and lost. Whereas gloves are on your hand. But I’m not shooting field, I go for a tab. And I’ll grab this armguard, so that’s basically one size fits all. So that’s two more things on my list. Okay, next I wanna get let’s see Quivers! You don’t need one, but since we’re buying, let’s buy a quiver. You can buy back quivers, target quivers, they’re really nice and you can buy simple quivers as well. Let’s go for something quite simple. Let’s go for one of these quivers, a typical target quiver. You do need a belt for this one. You just have to keep in mind that they don’t come equipped with them. Ooh! The pink one’s here! Alright, pink one! Yaaay! I’m not actually buying this, by the way, so I might as well buy a pink one. I didn’t know they have this in pink, that’s cool! So I’ll buy that one. I do need a belt, so we go back twice, they have a belt. You can use any belt you want, you can use your own belt, but since I don’t have a belt, so I’ll just get one of these. Belt – done! Ok, that’s cool. Anything else we need? If you want sights, you can buy sights, stabilisers – yes, targets – yes, if you want to. That’s basically my kit right now, is everything that was in the set before, except I’ve chosen different objects, or different items. I have my Jaguar, arrows, points, rest, bowstringer, tab, armguard, quiver and belt. That is everything that was in the original package. We can check the package right now. In fact let’s look at this Sabre package, it’s very similar. It comes with a case too by the way, which I don’t really need, but if you go for this kit, it doesn’t say anything here. We’ll check the other kit here, the deluxe package for the OMP Adventure You see here, I do have the riser and limbs, I have arrows, bowstringer, arrowrest, nock points I can buy seperately, I can use a string to do this. But if I want to buy nock points, I’ll do it seperately. I can buy the finger tab, which I have, armguard, belt, quiver, I don’t need a sleeve, I have points. I have everything here in my list, so if you need a checklist, this is a good checklist to have, you need all of these items in some way, either these exact items or something similar. Otherwise – yes, I’m basically done, so in my version of my shopping cart I’m spending what? 360USD for a kit, which is more customised. Do I need all of this? Well I do actually. Do I need this quality? No I don’t but some of these are luxury buys others are things, which I basically need, so that’s me buying a bow from scratch. To sum up, you can buy things seperately, if you know what you are doing and you’re more confident in your research, or if you don’t know what you are doing, buy a package. This concludes my tutorial on how to buy a bow from scratch online. Again, thank you to providing the materials used for this walkthrough. In the next episode, I will go through what to do, when you finally get your bow sent to you, and how to set up for your first shot. This is NU Sensei, thank you for watching! And I’ll see you next time!

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Why a maximum of 30 pounds?
    I am the quartermaster of a school archery club here in Singapore but normally when someone new joins i would recommend 24 pound max for everyone. The people joining is usually about 17 years old and is in good physical health, and I see them just unable to even properly pull a 20 pound club bow.
    The coach reasoning and I agree with, is that any higher poundage is going to ruin their form and make any correction in the future very hard. (Second hand experience here with a clubmate)

  2. I purchased a Samick Sage off Amazon and then watched your earlier video. Returned the Sage and got an SF Forged from Lancaster. It was great advice because I feel the SF Forged will grow with me over the months as I train. And I've already added stabilizers and a clicker.

  3. I would suggest anyone who is tall or who has a wide wing span actually go to a store if possible because you will need to have your draw length measured. You do not want to buy arrows that are far too short and have them come off the rest and skewer your hand. I have two friends with a wide wing span and myself is included. You bow is not just a piece of equipment, it is also a weapon so you really should be measured up first.

    As NUSensei has previously advised, do not go above and beyond in weight of your bow. You need to be able to pull this back without over straining your muscles.

    Arrows – recurve arrows do not work in compound and vice versa (there is always an exception and I can vouch for that). Too heavy or too light arrows can damage your bow.

    Thank you David for your videos. I recommend this channel to the noobs that I get hooked on this sport.

  4. 1:00 No, no, no. Don't go to an actual shop. Seeing all the pretty things you are not going to be able to buy will make you depressed and you will stop with archery.


  5. Damn in chile there a not so many options, and shipping cost must be a lot D:< and local stores does not have as many options as there in usa 🙁


    that is a shit arrow rest

  7. Long and sponsored. 2/10.
    How can someone made a video in which he recommends how to buy certain thing and make it sponsored by a shop? It's like a red flag of mistrust for anyone that watches it.

  8. A number of retailers in my area no longer sell recurve bows of any type. Their reason being that they can't beat the prices of on-line retailers.

    They figure that they will make their money selling arrows and accessories.

  9. I would like to share a common school of thought here in my community in terms of buying the first set of gears. It consists of 3 suggestions:

    1) prior to making the shopping list, always consider decking out on everything except for limbs and arrows, if you have the budget, for this is the least costly path overall. All that is left to do is replacing limbs and arrows as you progress;
    2) if you can't do what #1 suggests, either save up, or get the least expensive beginner's gear that is considered good enough (SF Axiom stuff being the most common suggestion), but be prepared to ditch them altogether once you get very good at 18m and want to shoot farther;
    3) DO NOT get mid-range stuff for any reason other than a massive discount or as free gift. They are overkill for short distance and useless for long range.

    It is not unusual to see beginners here wielding Hoyt GPX, W&W Nano Max or even MK Alpha risers, accompanied by Shibuya Ultima sight and other other Olympic grade gears, but with a set of SF Axiom limbs and inexpensive arrows. I nearly went that route but I had a massive budget cut due to things in life, so I followed suggestion #2. BTW I got a full set from Infitec, which seems to be badge-engineered Cartel products.

    Any thought on that, Sensei? Do you think there is a valid point in it? Really hoping to hear from you.

  10. Very informative archery video. Thanks for posting. I really did learn a thing or two as it relates to choosing what to buy (look for). Again, thanks for posting. Cheers!

  11. At 5:43, that's the package sells?
    Don't think I've ever seen a bigger mismatch in looks of arrows and bow 🙂

  12. Hello, I have a question for you. I have been doing archery for about 8 months now, and my coaches are recommending that I get my own bow. I've been to competitions with club equipment, however I was the only one with equipment disadvantage since everyone had Olympic recurves. Do you think I should start investing in a bow, or is it hard to decide at this point? I feel like it's a huge investment on such a hobby. Hope you reply soon 😀

  13. what exercises can i do to pull a heavier bow? I recently bought a 50 pound bow and I cant pull it back but i don't want to wait that long to use it (im a scrawny kid)

  14. just about to finish Basic training in my archery lessons and I now have a chance to get a bow for Christmas. but can someone help me. there's two options which is the 'samick sage' recurve or the 'kinetic rave' compound. dunno what I should get for my first bow 😐.

  15. Hey NU, what is the premise behind buying long stabilizer side rods vs short? Iv been using 15 inch side rods for years but Im buying some new ones and wondering what shorter rods would do for me.

  16. Hey NUSensei, would this be a good beginner bow and arrow, and would they go well together? (Sorry I am asking you this)
    Bow: PSE Archery Razorback
    Arrows: Daisy Youth Archery 26'' Target Arrows
    (Again, I am very sorry for asking you this, because I know that this is an annoyance to you and everyone, but I'm not sure if this bow and arrow would go well together)

  17. I am 13 years old and I am looking to buy the PSE Razorback Recurve or OMP Adventure 2.0. What bow do you think is a better choice? and what AMO Length should I get 54 or 62?

  18. Thanks for all your archery tips, i bought a bow online a couple weeks ago and it arrived today, ive done everything correctly and even though its a 60 lb recurve its super fun to use, i probably would have broken it without all your tips so thank you 🙂

  19. Hey NuSensei, sorry for asking again, but I went on the website you recommended above and looked around. I was able to find a new bow and arrow, so would they be good together? (Sorry for asking again)
    Bow: Adventure 2.0
    Arrow: Easton Genesis V2 Arrows

  20. The finger tab has 2 piece of material on it, one is the leather and another is an orange piece of material. May I ask what is the purpose of the orange piece of material ?

  21. I'm a very late beginner to archery would you think websites like medieval collectibles dot com is a good website to buy a traditional long bow.

  22. Are recurve bows adjustable in their draw weight? Can you change it by changing the limbs, or it isn't worthy and might as well just buy a better bow? I want to start, I'd like to do bowhunting/fishing, so a bow I can take down and transport easily and is very simple to use is what I want. However, I've read in hunting channels that it's not advisable(even illegal sometimes) to attempt hunting with anything below 25 lb. Should I buy a simpler bow first and work my way to a more usable draw weight(40-50 lb)? Or(remembering your previous video) is it possible to tweak the draw by changing the limbs? I remember that you mentioned in the previous video that it is advisable that, if we mean to practice this seriously, it would be advisable to invest a bit more in better equipment, that's why I ask. Thanks for this videos, it is helping a lot.

  23. i know this video is old but… Im on track&field and im good at running and long jump. Im rlly afraid of failure so if i fail ill turn to archery. But if im not good there after 2 years just FML coz i cant do more XD

  24. is it really necesary to have everything on the list? or is it ok just to buy the bow, the arrows and the points for a start?

  25. Just wanted to add that the Jaguar Elite actually includes it's own bow stringer in it's box, so if you do go for a Jaguar Elite like in the video you don't have to get the stringer separately.

  26. i am not an archer, but if i joint to this sport , i will aim olympic section and choose best one which pro olympic athlete use. Yes expensive but i will only cry once lol. Buying cheap one will make you cry many times. But before buy, i will join archer club gather many information from senior.

  27. I followed your advice on arrows, bought Gold Tips and the lookup chart on their website recommended a 400 spine for my recurve. The problem is, I am finding that Gold Tip is expecting you have a center shot shelved bow, and NOT a traditional one where the riser is in the way. My arrows deflect wildly off the side. This is bad advice.

  28. Hi NU,

    What I really think is missing in your advice is that you are focusing on an Adult buying a bow for himself or herself……

    The real life situation for many is that it is not the adult who needs or would like a bow

    Children are a group of archers who would not be able to decide on what to buy and especially how much money to spend!!!

    Some advice to parents who are not archery orientated but would like to give their child’s best chance at the sport!!!

    This is a real tuff thing to advise on…… can you make a video on this

    Best regards from Germany


  29. I shoot target compound as youth, about 275/300 points average, and i want to try and get into recurve. Theres this used bow on kijiji with Hoyt excel risers and Sebastian Flute Axiom limbs for about 150 CAD. Is that a good idea or not? Draw weight is #30.

  30. Hi Nusensei, I just want to thank you for all your videos; The biggest hurdle was buying online – i eventually went through Lancaster and got a Cartel 3 riser and 35lbs Samick Sage limbs, plus some other necessary goodies. Thanks for all your info and advise.

  31. Ok I know I'm like super annoying right now but I was hoping you could answer these questions. 🙁

    1. What if you don't know your draw weight?
    2. How do you check your draw weight?
    3. I am not getting Max pull on mystring, I think its too stiff?

  32. Hi NUSensei
    I have always loved bows and recently I have been looking around to learn what bow would fit me best as a beginner that has never seen or touched a bow in real life, but my biggest problem is that I live in Denmark so there really isn't any local shops to go to, so I was wondering if you know of an online store that sells in EU? The bow type I have been looking after is a recurve bow if that helps. I have been looking on eBay but after this video, I became unsure if it was the best place to buy from hope you can give me some advice, because I would really like to get a good starter bow.

    Have been looking on ebay and found this, would this be an okay starter recurve bow? It's from core archery.

    Best Regards

  33. His recommendations for first bow are wrong. First a cheap introductory bow will let to decide if you you want to continue archery. If not you have wasted your money on an expensive bow. The p;rices he has listed are higher than most are. His post is too long with lots of unseeded information that may not be of interest. If you decide to continue archery, research the Internet, and talk to members of local archery club. Many shoot different types of bows, Listen to their opinions.

  34. I bought my first bow, watching this video on Apex Hunting though. they offered Samick Polaris package and sage. I saw your video of the difference of the two as well. Decided to buy Polaris b/c of the handle. it's all good. cheers!

  35. I suggest bass pro shop. That's where I got my first bow and arrow. It was perfect and they let you try pulling the draw string and stuff like that

  36. Love your videos. I used to be into the compound bow but there is something very appealing about the recurve. I am an older man now and settled on 30 lb limbs on an xspot decut aluminium riser. The folks at Lancaster archery are first class. I am used to shooting my CZ 75 9mm pistol but want to rediscover the beauty of archery. You sir, are informative and I thank you for reintroducing me I do enjoy shooting a pistol with its short sight radius but archery is a step above. It is common to all of humanity. Thank you for you informative videos.

  37. Good advice if you are getting into archery as a complete beginner but I've been shooting Longbows for 30 years with the same 35lb now and all I ever had was a bow, a string and some basic renectment arrows, no tabs, no arm guards, no knock tips, no stringer and lastly no quiver, the bow cost me £50 including the string and the arrows are about £30 for 6 of them so I'm up and running for less than £100 😉

    If you want to buy more kit and stuff then go for it but you don't need to is all I'm saying.

  38. I love your eloquent and thorough walk through video of buying a bow and the options etc.👍🏻❤️❤️😎
    The only thing (which yes is trivial) but the same song for 32 minutes was making me bananas lol even as calm as it sounds lol 🤷🏻‍♀️ 😂

  39. Thank you for your videos! They are very helpful. After watching your videos and doing some research, I've decided to purchase the PSE Uprising package. Do you think that for a starter/learner archer this is a decent product? I figured if you have a look at the bow you could give me a decent answer on whether I am making a wrong purchase or not. Any help would be appreciated!

  40. I want to buy a takedown bow with a 30lb draw weight. The company also sells extra limbs at various draw weights. Would It be fine to just change out the limbs to a higher draw weight if i need to one day, or do I need to purchase a new bow?

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