One of the most common misconceptions that people new to the sport have, is that you can use any arrow with any bow. The reality is that archers will pick specific arrows to suit their bow, selecting a particular spine rating based on actual draw weight, which in turn is based on bow weight, and the archer’s draw length. I currently use Easton A/C/E’s, rated at 670 with my 40lb bow. For the sake of experimentation, let’s shoot an Easton Jazz 1916, and see what happens. Well… Nothing really. No explosions or splinters; it simply lands left of where I was aiming, and that could just be a sight adjustment. But, looking at it in slow motion, the arrow has this wicked kick as it leaves the bow, and virtually bend to the left. If I shot 6 of those, they’d probably form a grouping, but if I were to shoot from longer distances, the inconsistency would lead to an awful spread. Compare that to my 670 A/C/E’s. Straight as an arrow, but even these arrows aren’t perfect,and there’s a way to find out. There are 2 methods of tuning a bow: paper tuning, which involves shooting through a piece of paper and analysing the pattern and bare shaft tuning. As the name suggests, you’ll be shooting several fletched arrows, followed by a bare shaft. It’s important to consider that arrows flex. However, too much or too little will cause problems If the shaft is too weak, the arrow will wrap around the riser, and fly to the right. If it’s too stiff, it’ll get knocked to the left. The vanes on a regular arrow stabilise it, correcting its flight as it leaves the bow. However, there’s only so much it can do, and when the bow is out of tune, the groupings will not be consistent. The bare shaft basically acts as a diagnostic tool – without any stabilising vanes, the shaft will fly in one direction based on how the bow is currently tuned. I’ll shoot several fletched arrows to form a group. And then the bare shaft. The bare shaft will tell me what I need to change. For a right-handed archer, if the bare shaft is to the left of my grouping, the shaft is too stiff. If it lands right, it’s too soft. The directions are reversed for left-handers. If it is an issue with stiffness, a fletched arrow will show a distinct flight movement called ‘fishtailing’. If the bare shaft hits too low, or too high, relative to the grouping, then my nocking point is too high or too low. A fletched arrow will ‘porpoise’ in flight instead. Let’s look at the bare shaft – it landed to the left of my grouping, which means the shaft is too stiff. There are several things you can do – you can adjust the poundage of the bow, and most risers will allow for 5% adjustment either side of the limbs rating. You can replace the points, using heavier points for making arrows softer, and lighter points to make it stiffer. Cutting an arrow will also affect the stiffness, though that’s usually done to match your draw length. It’s also possible to adjust the plunger button, but it’s a fine tweak, and it’s one of the very last things you do. I’ve pretty much done everything I can with my bow, so my only option is to get new arrows. The tune is close, but not close enough. These are another batch of Easton A/C/E’s, rated at 720 this time. They’re cut to the same length, but I’ve replaced the points with lighter ones- they should allow me enough leeway to bring my bow into tune. Same thing now – shoot several fletched arrows, and then the bare shafts. The bare shafts landed right this time, exactly as they should, as they are softer arrows, and I haven’t made any other adjustments. I’m going to wind my bow down. Most risers work the same way – you need 2 hex wrenches. First, I loosen the rear screw, then I turn the big one on the front. I’m going to do 1 whole turn, then work from there in the next test. I also have to do the same turn to the other end, in order to maintain the same brace height. We’ll shoot our arrows again. Now it’s landed to the left, so we’ve dropped the bow weight too much. We’ll turn it back the other way this time, and then we’ll try again. The horizontal alignment seems fine, but the bare shaft is too high. It’s a simple nocking point adjustment, and after several attempts, we get an acceptable grouping. Ideally, the bare shafts should group with the other arrows. For today, it’s good enough. Not having your bow in tune can be one of the big reasons why your groupings aren’t coming together. It’s good to check to check your tune every now and then. However, it’s not the most important thing to do, especially if you’re just starting out, and you’re just starting to learn good archery form. If you’re trying to tune then, then you probably won’t get consistent groups, and your tune will be rather meaningless. Nonetheless, the more in-tune your bow is with your arrows, the better your accuracy will be. Anyway guys, I hope you found this video helpful. As usual, feel free to post a comment below Otherwise, I’ll see you next time.