Archery | Assembling Arrows
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Archery | Assembling Arrows

August 16, 2019

Hey guys, this is NUSensei. I’ve had a few requests to walk through
how to assemble an arrow from start to finish, and what better arrow to demonstrate this
with than my new Easton X10s. Normally, you can buy individual carbon arrows,
but the top level carbon shafts like A/C/Es and X10s are sold in a matching dozen. Apart from the shafts, you need the following
items. For these X10s, I’m using pin nocks, which
must be inserted into the end of the shaft, though you can get regular push-in nocks for
the more basic arrows. The actual nocks I am using are Easton large-groove
nocks, meant for the X10s. The points I am using are the X10 bulge points. Most are made from stainless steel, though
you can go for tungsten points if you REALLY want to throw money into your arrows. These particular points are 100-grain break-off
points, which are segmented so that you can cut the point to reduce the weight to 90 or
80 grains, though most points don’t have this function. The Easton points come with a small stick
of hot-melt glue, though I use a different brand. It’s worth noting that if you are using
screw-in points, you will have to use inserts like this one instead of a glue-in point. For vanes, most people will use plastic fletches
like these ones. However, I will be using the spinnie-style
vanes, in this case XS wings, which are often preferred by more competitive shooters. These are applied differently, but I’ll
mention this a bit later. I will also be applying wraps onto my arrows. These are optional and most people don’t
use them. However, they do provide another way to personalise
your arrow, and you can get nice designs or custom prints. To attach the vanes, you will need a fletching
jig, such as this one. You will also need tools, such as hot-melt
glue, pliers, and a source of heat. A blow torch, heat gun or alcohol burner work
best, but my bedroom desk uses a candle. The basic idea is to install the nocks and
the points using the glue, so we’ll do that first. Using pliers to hold the pin insert, I apply
heat to the pin and the glue, allowing it to melt. Be generous in covering the insert. Then, slide the insert into the shaft. When the glue cools, it should be held in
place. Scrape off the excess glue later. Do the same for the points. Make sure to apply plenty of glue so that
the point adheres to the shaft. If you have a perfectly smooth insert, you
can use sandpaper to roughen it, giving it more surface area for the glue to stick to. It’s important to not apply the flame directly
to the carbon shaft, as that can damage the structure of the carbon fibers. With the point and pin done, I can scrape
the excess glue off and place the nock on. Since I am putting wraps onto my arrows, this
is where I do so. Peel the wrap, place it onto a flat surface,
align the shaft with where you want it, firmly press down and roll the shaft down so that
the wrap goes around it. Next are the vanes. If you’re using straight plastic fletches,
you need to use a jig and fletching glue to attach the vanes, which you can see in more
detail in this video. Since I am using spinnies, I will need to
apply double-sided tape. This is normally done by using a jig to mark
the lines on the shaft. However, I will be using this tool – the
Skyliner – to get this done quicker. The arrow is placed into this tool, which
clamps around the shaft and is secured in place. This particular item is a 3D-printed version
sent in to me by Skyler from 3D Printed Archery, and is a much cheaper alternative to commercial
products, but a little cruder to use. Once the tool is secured, I can now mark the
shaft for the tape. However, I am going to take a shortcut by
applying the tape directly onto the shaft without marking them. The tool is removed, leaving me with three
strips of perfectly aligned double-sided tape. I then peel the top layer of this tape to
expose the adhesive. I carefully align the vanes and press firmly. Using the anchor tape that comes with the
spinnies, I secure the front and back of the vanes by wrapping the tape around them. The last thing I’m going to do is to put
my name on the shaft. Competition rules require you to have your
initials written on the shaft, but instead I use these clear stickers for a cleaner look. If this is the first time you are using your
arrows, it’s a good idea to leave one or two as bare shafts so that you can do some
tuning later. Otherwise, your arrows are ready to go. This is NUSensei. I hope you’ve found this helpful, and I’ll
see you next time.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. One tip from watching Crispin Duenas demonstrating how to fletch spin wings is to sprinkle some tal powder on the vanes so that they won't stick to each other in the quiver.

  2. Hey NUsensei, I have been watching a ton of your vids for the past week, and im loving them! I want to get into archery myself, and I want to get a bow to get started. Im a young teen, and I have found the Genesis Original to be a popular choice for many beginners. Do you agree? I would like to start hunting as I get older and stronger, but for now just practice shooting. Thanks!

  3. would a soldering iron work as a source of heat? Its a digital one and I can set it to 50-480 celcius. Or my dad has an rework station that he doesn't use anymore and I can ask for him to bring it home would that be a better choice?

  4. Thanks for sharing that. Clear and uncomplicated. One step I would add, particularly if you are building an arrow with a carbon only shaft. You get the best results when bonding points and nock pins if you clean the inside of the arrow shaft with isopropyl alcohol and a q tip or cotton bud. The dust and debris collected inside the arrow after the cutting process can reduce the quality of the bond. I have proven this by building a set of Easton carbon ones, not cleaning the inside of the shaft and finding points missing when I retrieved the arrows from the boss. Found them in the grass by metal detector behind the boss and repeated the glueing process after cleaning the shafts internally. Much better result

  5. Did you experience any different flight characteristics between the lighter ACE and the heavier X 10, and is there any considerations needed for spinage as compared to your ACEs. Love your videos. PS: you might want to invest in over the shaft nocks so the expensive X10s don't bite the dust after one shot

  6. Are your vanes mounted straight, offset or, helical?
    Which BTW is better in a competition?
    Another great video thanks for posting.

  7. Have you switched to a weaker spine? I sort of remember a previous video where you were using ACE's 670 and 720.

  8. From all this time watching your War Thunder videos and now your Archery vids… it nice to know your name. From one Dave to another, hey man!

  9. Hey Nue , does having the tape on the end of the vanes have any effect on the flight of the arrow once it comes in contact with the arrow rest arm?

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